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Want to replace my dually ( auto), with a 93-99 3/4 ton
Prefer a std shift,
Read of problems with Cluth and Hyd Throw out bearing.
Especially on the 6.5L diesel,
Any comments on reliablity of Auto vs STD????
Note; I have never gotten less than 200k on and auto trans,
Ditto on Std trans. ( Clutch usually at 125K )
I have approx 170,000 miles on my 1993 standard
three clutches
two slave cyls
one pivot ball and throw out arm
one set of carbon fiber sycro's (at 170,000 miles)
new seals and shifter pad (transfer case--again at 170,000 miles)
one input shaft
The difference in the mpg between the standard and the auto more or less makes up for the repairs. I do treat this thing like a truck and it has many many hard miles hauling gravel and off road 4 x 4 ing as well as a lot of miles towing (appox 5,500 to 6,000 lbs) travel trailer.
Last time I had the trans out the shop said it was just like brand new inside (gears and such) but the input shaft had been scored by a pilot bearing turning to powder.
Then there is the old solid mass vs dual mass flywheel can of worms, I prefer a stock (from factory) dual mass setup while others have converted them to solid flywheels with varying degress of success depending on who did the conversion and if the vibration damper was installed as well.
There have also been a fair amount of changes to the tans setup over the years as well, some gear ratio changes and some moving around of the slave cyl setup, and of course the production change to a solid flywheel.
For more info (sometimes conflicting) on the trans go to
www.newventuregear.com
www.high-impact.net
www.JBconversions.com
www.advanceadapters.com
And the final question would I change my NV4500 for an auto -- NEVER ( :
If and when you do get one I can give you a lot of advice on how to service it.
Al
Thanks for the info: Had an 82 std, 1 clutch/pressure plate/
bellhousing ( starter nose broke off , jammed between
pressure plate and clutch ) My fault....
Are the bell housing dimensions the same on a non hydralic clutch( 82 and up to ? ) as the newer hydralic. reason I ask is I want to have repair options thought out before I go back to a std shift,
Note: All the std Shift diesels I've have driven seemed to
have much more power and ran smoother at lower rpm.
That would be he only reason I would go with the std shift
as the auto's have given me excellent service,
The exception was a GM rebuilt installed at 220K miles.
, lasted 8k miles.....
Check out the Advance adaptors link it may give you the info you need on the bell housing.
The reason I went with a standard is because I like them and in 1993 they claimed that it got 5mpg over the auto -- which I think is true after comparing many mpg's from other trucks -- this truck gets GREAT MPG. Also I spend a lot of time in the bush and like the idea of push starting it if all else goes wrong.
Al
Agree about back country, I do a lot of remote camping,
plus " way back " in Maine during hunting.
I carry a spare starter, and extra batterys just in case.
Use to have a scout diesel, std shift, with manuel fuel
shut off, Did't need no lectrics...
I had an 82 3/4 ton 6.2, std shift ,loved the truck,
but North East rust did it in, 230K trouble free miles..
at 24 MPG.
There is a 95 3/4 4x4 std shift long box for sale with 121K miles , up in NC.
Thinking of buying another 6.5L, Can't believe
I said that, But I think I understand how to keep them running now.