anyone have any ideas?

in the process of swapping the injectors out of the 01 lb7. when i popped the injectors out i can see all sorts of dirt in the hole it came out of. anyone have any ideas on how to get the dirt out before putting the new injectors in?

It's probably not dirt, but rather combustion byproducts.

I'd be tempted to pull all of the cups and clean/reseal them as the new injectors are being installed.

Jim

Could you try a shop vac or something to get down there? We have a 'vac' that we rigged up 1/2 " rubber hose to that we use for just such instances. If you can fish the hose to the area, you stand a pretty good chance of getting it out, rather than in.

Good luck!

after you pull the cups out how do u actually reseal them? Theres 2
o-rings seals but do you just press them in or do you need to seel them with something else?

Using the injector sleeve remover/ installer Kent Moore J 45910, pull the sleeve out. Then clean and inspect the sleeve taper and the head taper area for pitting. The sleeve is stainless steel and generally does not pit although I have had one LB7 that had pitted the sleeves and the heads, but there was major electrolosis action going on. Anyway, if no pitting found in the heads and the sleeves, clean and dry the sleeve taper sealing area and the head taper sealing area with brake clean. Install the two new O rings. Then apply locktite clean and prime to the sleeve and head sealing surface and then apply red locktite to the taper sealing surface of the sleeve. install the sleeve on the installer tool, apply a thin film of lubricant to the O rings (I use engine oil), insert the sleeve/ tool assy. into the head and then gently tap the sleeve into place so as to seat it into the head. I then remove the tool and install the new injector with new copper sealing washer and body O ring. Hope this helps. :)

that is very helpful information..i don't have the puller/installer but only one cup came out with the injector. do you think its worth pulling the other seven to reseal them or just leave them alone? the head gaskets were done about 10k ago at the dealer so they all should have been out and resealed. i was thinking about leaving them in and just cleaning them out with brush before installing the new injectors. does anyone know the torque specs required for the injector job? such as injector holdowns,lower and upper vc's

Are you doing this job without a repair manual? If so, you may be missing several very important procedural steps, and you won't find all the answers on a discussion forum. It is just too detailed, and the systems are very sensitive to the detail.

i dont have a service manual. i am an auto tech and everything seemed to be pretty strait forward. i know it would be a help to have one but everything came apart really easy other than the 1 injector that pulled out the cup. that is where i am not really familiar on what to do with the cups and the torque specs for everything goin back together.

The injector hold down bolt is torqued to 37 ft. lbs. How do the injector lines look? If they are all pitted and corroded, you're looking at about another $800 in parts providing they don't clean up. I torque the lines to 30 ft. lbs at each end. As far as the sleeves being resealed when the heads were done, I can't speak for other shops but I reseal the sleeves whenever I pull heads. And we all know that there are quite a few tech's out there that like to cut as many corners as possible. If you don't trust that the sleeves were resealed then I guess I would reseal them now. The #8 is a little hard to do because of the brake booster and the firewall being in the way. You really should get your hands on that tool so that you can pull the rest of the sleeves. When performing routine injector replacement on the LB7, I only reseal the sleeves that have pulled with the injectors. I also run my finger along the top of the sleeves (while still in head) to check the installed height. Sometimes an injector pulls a little hard and it manages to just move the sleeve slightly. I will at that time pull and reseal the affected sleeve. Hope this helps.

very helpful...when you reseal the cups do you just put new ring gaskets on it and some red loctite where it seats the head on the bottom?
also, do u have the specs for the valve cover bolts?

The lower covers are torqued to 89 inch pounds and the upper cover bolts are torqued to 71 inch pounds. Apply red lock tite to the taper of the sleeve sealing surface. If you send me your personal e-mail in a Private message, I can send you the replacement procedure right from the GM website. ;)