what fluid should i top of the pump with? book says see oem?
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what fluid should i top of the pump with? book says see oem?
You should use GM, or "GM approved" Power Steering Fluid, as recommended. I could dig up the part number, if necessary.
Rather than "topping if off", seriously consider a full flush. It's very simple, and should be done every few years. You only need to remove the return line from the top of the HB unit, install a length of hose (onto the barb, long enough to reach a container on the ground), and idle the engine while turning the wheel lock to lock and pumping the brake. Once the fluid is gone (won't hurt anything), you'll know it. Replace the return line and fluid and "prime" the system by idling the engine while turning the wheel and pumping the brakes. Top it off and you're done. It should take no more than 2-3 qts. with a partial fill and flush before the final fill.
That said, I've been using synthetic ATF in all my power steering/brake (hydroboost) systems for years. Fewer leaks (than what would be expected normal) and no failures to date since I started using it in about 1988 (I don't remember what I used before that, but it was probably regular ATF). I'm currently using Amsoil Universal Synthetic ATF, but have used Mobil 1 in the past. There was a time when the only difference between ATF and PS fluid was the color. Since, I've sent off letters to GM and the fluid mfg's asking what is the difference, and what damage might occur using ATF. Never a straight answer. Always, "because the manufacturer recommends it". Of course, the all have a product to sell, at 4X the price of ATF in itty-bitty bottles.
so regular ps fluid no good? would that cause the amber abs light to come on. i had a leak in hose and replaced it and topped off with regular fluid... now what?
Regular PS fluid isn't "no good". I just don't use it, and have had success.
If your ABS lamp is on, it has nothing to do with the PS system. It will be on the brake master cylinder side of the system, or an electrical/electronic issue. If the lamp is on, there should also be a DTC to tell you what's failing/failed. Could be the fuse, air in the system (did you service the brake system lately?), or a dirty/damaged connector or wire. Could also be a wheel speed sensor, which fail under specific conditions (usually corrosion from road salt, etc). There's a TSB on that.
by having the wrong mix would that cause the amber abs light to come on? i will flush tomorrow and put the synthetic atf..
checked all 3 sensors. did have one bad and replaced. brakes work good. checked fuse ok. even disconnected batts. no help. no codes either. any thing else?
No. Not even remotely. Changing the fluid, while it is a recommended service, will not address your current issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by olimaxx
Fluid (water or other contaminant) or air issues between the MC and wheels may cause this, but is most often indicated by a DTC. Verify your master cylinder is applying front and rear brakes as they should. A trip down a dirt road (braking at various speeds and aggressiveness) can be very revealing.
At this point, I don't know what would cause the ABS w/o a related code and with working brakes and ABS. Your IPC (Instrument Panel) my be at fault (more common than ABS issues). You will have to run down the diagnostic steps from the beginning. Unfortunately, a Tech II is required to perform many of the steps.