Removing front drive shaft ?

I recently started hearing a clackety-type sound and was able to trace it to the front driveshaft. More specifically, the knuckles (u-joint) at the transfer case end of the shaft. One of the u-joints are loose - and the "casing" has a chip out of it.

I looked in my Chilton's manual and it appears to be pretty easy to remove the shaft. Just remove the retaining clips and then slide the shaft out?

Can I remove the shaft and still drive the truck around? Will I lose any gear oil? If so, could I just duct tape the openings?:rolleyes:

You need to pull the front straps, compress the shaft to free from the yoke and then pull it down and out. The boots often have clamps that you'll end up snipping. The front output seal rides on the output yoke so no oil should come out. We generally skip the clamp when reassembling just pop the boot back up and on. It wil make a "pop" when you remove it so it seals quite well. A bit of grease on the splines is a good idea.

I don't think I have ever seen a front shaft ujoint wear on an IFS truck.

Cool - it seems pretty straight forward. Do you clip both SS bands? Or, just the one on the shaft?

I tried to get a good picture of it - but it doesn't show much. I'll try again once I get it out. One of the "pins" (probably using the wrong term) is loose. Sort of like there should be a spacer of some sort there. Kind of like, what, I would imagine, would happen if you removed an outer bearing (for example) from an axle, but kept the inner bearing. The axle would wobble.

Oh... when you say "compress the shaft"... that will happen within the rubber boot?

Actually I used the word compress a bit loosely. With these the spline is inside thr output yoke/cog inside the tcase. Slide to rear and boot will compress. I only clip the rearmost one.

Perfect - that makes complete sense. Thanks, John.

Well, this one of the easier things to remove on the truck! Thanks, John!

Does it make sense to ask around town to see if there is some place that can repair this? Can a new universal joint just be pressed in? The sticker on the shaft is in incredible shape - very easy to read - part number 26055995, made by American Axle & Manufacturing.

The pictured joint has about 1/4" of movement in it. Were there bearings in there that have now fallen out?

http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/p...dium/joint.jpg

The U-joint is replaceable. Easy with an arbor press, only slightly less easy without. If you've never done one, now is just as good a time as any to start.

I'm game for that! Do you think it's better (cost is one factor to consider, but not the only thing) to replace the u-joint or buy a complete shaft from a bone yard? If I did my googling correct, partshotline.com shows them available for ~100.

EDIT: Disregard that last question about a bone yard. I just called Autozone and they stock them - $15 with a lifetime warranty.

I'm not opposed to buying new tools, either. Is this what you had in mind?
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-a...ress-3552.html

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...XMXH9WSNR8F63A

Sears can get Palmgren products, too.

Or, do I simply just use a large C-clamp?

Any arbor press with sufficient force will work. A ton would be minimum (sounds like a lot, but it really isn't). A 25-50 ton hydraulic press would be my choice. Overkill for joints, but they are SO handy.

A "regular" C-clamp won't work for disassembly. The cups have to be pressed through and out. They work for assembly, though. The cups can be driven out with a hammer/punch (the resulting condition of the old parts isn't that important), then installed with a C-clamp. Most OEM cups are secured with a plastic injection. I use a propane torch to burn them out (little holes on the outside of the yoke). Not enough heat to damage the yokes, but enough heat to melt out the plastic. Apply slow heat until the plastic oozes out, like a worm coming out of an apple. If the cups are secured with a clip, just remove the clip. The new joints will come with clips. Just make sure all the clips are fully seated in the grooves before installing the shaft back on the truck.

Mark the orientation of the yokes!!! Getting them 180° off can negate the shaft balance.

After the plastic or clips are removed, press one cup in to push out the opposite cup. Reverse and press the joint to press out the other cup. The joint should now be free of the yoke. Repeat for the other yoke. Once all the cups/joints are removed, clean the plastic out of the inner grooves (pick or small screwdriver) and inspect for nicks or dents on the yokes where the cups make contact. Clean up with a file, as necessary.

Install in reverse order. You'll have to remove the cups from the joint during the install, so be very careful to not dislodge the bearings. Carefully remove the cups from the joint, prevent contamination of the grease, and prevent any damage to the yoke bearing surfaces. When placing the joint back in the cup, be sure all of the bearings remain in place. They can fall over, into the cup, and get stuck between the bottom of the cup and end of the joint. If this happens, the joint won't insert fully into the cup, and it won't fit. Just be careful at every step to avoid this. Place the joint into the yoke, and start one cup into it after the joint is inserted into that cup. Once it's inserted to about the clip groove, do the other cup. Press them in until both clip grooves line up. They will be very tight, as there's no play once the clips are installed. Repeat the process for the other yoke. If the clips don't fit, and there's more than a hair of movement needed, bearing(s) may have fallen into the bottom of the cup. You'll have to disassemble it to straighten that out.

Cool. That sounds pretty straight forward. I'm not ready for the disassembly, but I went out to the garage and marked them so I wouldn't forget.

Do you think the 1-ton arbor will do the job for sure, or is it possible it won't get the job completely done? A hyd press would be nice - but it's both a little more than I want to spend and not as easy to store - space is a premium. I could at least easily store the arbor.

My other option is take the parts to a local garage that I have a good relation with. I doubt they'd charge me much, if anything, to do it.

I think if I went the c-clamp route, I would end up spending a lot of time.
Especially considering the garage is close and likely cheap.

The cups are held in with plastic, as you mentioned. I see the little plastic "nibs" you referred to.

The 1 ton press is a hard call. It should work, but it won't take much of a snag to leave it short. If you have a good shop nearby, that may be your best option. I don't know of any shop that hasn't done u-joints. It's a 15 minute job with the proper tools. If you go there, they'll probably talk you out of a DIY. I would, if I were them. While you can do it with marginal experience and tools, it may be better if you let them do it.

That "Chip" that you spoke of is in the bearing cup and is part that you will toss in the trash anyway.

If the joint had the "C" clips retaining it, the thing will come apart easily.

Just wire brush the heck out of the thing all around the cross area.

Place the shaft on a couple pieces of 2X4 laying flat.
Get a helper to hold the shaft for you.

Use a large ball peen hammer and a piece of brass or steel round that is slightly smaller than the joint cups.

Place the round on the cup (cup facing up)

Smack the round, using it as a punch and drive the joint through the knuckle just far enough that the one cup can be removed.

Turn the assembly over and drive the joint back through and remove the other cup.

Do this manuever on both sides of the joint.

Clean the entire knuckle really good with a wire brush, making sure the bores are noce and clean.

Wash up with solvent (gasoline works but be careful as its flamable)

Spray Gunk and water is great, scrub well, wash and dry.

Now remove the caps from the new cross assembly.
Carefully slip the cross into the knuckle and then slide the cap in on one end and onto the cross. (smear some neverseaze in the bores of the knuckle)

Tap the cap into the knuckle with a brass hammer or heavy plastic one.

You can use that ball peen but dont get Gung Ho with it.

As soon as you get the first cap in about half way, slide the cross towards the other side of the knuckle and slip that cap onto the cross.

Be careful not to dislodge the needle bearings.

Once the cap is on the cross, carefully tap that cap into the knuckle a little at a time making sure that the cross will swing back and forth in the bearings.

Tap the taps on in just far enough to get the "C" clips in.

Repeat the process on the other side of the cross.

Once the "C" clips are in on both side (all 4 clips) the joint assembly should move easily in both directions.

If the joint is a tad stiff, just swat the knuckle with a soft hammer a few times to settle the thing in and "Good to go"

Grease it until the grease just comes out around the 4 caps.

I have done this many many many times, and even out in hunting camp in the snow, using an old stump as a work bench.

Good luck

Missy

Thank, Missy. That all makes sense and I can "see" what you're describing. I dropped it off at the local shop, but thank you for the detailed how-to. I very much appreciate it and will "file it" for future reference.

I like Robyn's method, and I do exactly that most of the time. I've done hundreds of these (literally), and I'm not afraid of the hammer. Problem is, if it's your first, or you haven't done many, the hammer method can be problem. Add to that, many of the new joints (like OEM's) don't have a grease zerk, so retaining the original grease, seals and bearings in place is very important. One misalignment or missed hammer blow will have the bearings dislodged, scattered, or possibly lost.

FYI:
The greasable joints aren't necessarily better. Higher quality non-greasable joints, IMO, are usually better. If you grease them, you will almost always be replacing the original grease with an inferior lubricant, which limits the tolerance and lifespan of the joint, and after a few services, the grease no longer flows to all the cups evenly. This may result in 3 well greased cups, and one left to fend for itself.. As far as "off the shelf" joints go, I like Brute Force Extreme Duty joints (Autozone carries them). They have done as well as OEM joints, and don't have a grease zerk. They are also stronger than greasable, as the joint cross is solid, while the greasable joints are hollow. I've replaced a lot of joints with the Brute Force joint, but haven't yet replaced a Brute Force joint.

I never press one in to get the other out. Doing this on a heavy press could also spring the ears on the shaft if it gets stubborn.

Instead support the horizontal yoke like in the open jaws of a large vise and press (or pound) the vertically oriented shaft down popping the cup up flip and repeat. A hammer does OK for this.

When done hang the unit and "ring" each yoke with a hammer until they move freely. There will often be tension on teh joint and ringing it helpos relieve this.

I don't like to go "off site" but at a glance this video shows the method I describe:

http://www.ehow.com/video_2328175_re...ive-shaft.html

I use a larger hamer than that..

I picked it back up last night.

That video looks like what they did to remove the joint (they used a bigger hammer, too). They also had an acetylene torch - which I'm sure was a lot faster than a propane.

They are greasable joints from NAPA. Not sure of brand. Got both joints replaced while it was out. Also got new straps. Old ones were not bad - but it's cheap and easy to do it now.

All-in-all, for what they charged me to do this... WELL WORTH it to have them do it. No question in my mind that with the tips/tricks you guys supplied that I could have done it, though. And, now I know a little more!

By the way, the owner of the shop recently bought a Suburban with a 6.5 (cause he likes mine!). He asked me to take it for a few days sometime and tell him what I think of it. Also said if I ever need to borrow a vehicle that I'm welcome to it.

Sounds like a great shop/owner.

As far a s grease goes, I use the same stuff on my small rigs that I use on the big rig.

I prefer a grease that does not disolve with water and holds its body and lubricity.

I will admit that I am rather poor about service intervals, especially in the winter time.

Zirks get hit right before winter and then they are on their own until spring /summer

I use a moly type grease on the joints, king pins and so on.

The big rig joints have a spring loaded grease cavity that holds about a tablespoon full of grease and meters it in over time.

I have a set in the rig now that have been in the back shaft (Tandem drive) for about 8 years and are still good.

The factory joints on the Burbs and such come with the joints locked in with a thermal plastic thats injected into a groove around the cup.

Heating the ears until the plastic squirts out the little hole in the ear is the secret to removal of the cups.

Heat and beat :D thats the ticket.

Glad you all set now.

Missy

An owner-operater friend of mine introduced me to Castrol Pyroplex Blue. I use it in all or vehicles, tractors, etc.

I use Bel-Ray for my trailer bearings (and a lot of other stuff) - we stock it at the marine store I work for part-time. We've been using it for a long, long time in the shop. I don't know if it's got molybdenum in it, or not. But I do like that it's made in NJ. Anyone see a problem with using that? It sure would make it easy as I wouldn't have to change cartridges or buy a new gun.