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1st I got a P003a code, so I replaced the turbo sensor.. later it came on again, so I ordered a rebuilt turbo, got it yesterday.
today Im driving down the road and got a P2563 code it says the sensor is bad.. yeah it was a $35 sensor..
the turbo I ordered has a sensor on it..
I'm about to tear it apart , I need your prayers..
I got the rebuilt turbo from Usdiesel..
I highly recommend contacting US Diesel before turning a screw on that new turbo. Good luck, either way.
Good advise.
huh????Quote:
Originally Posted by dmaxmaverick
Unless I'm not understanding, you're considering tearing into a turbo (new/rebuilt, whatever) you just bought. I suggested contacting the supplier before possibly voiding the warranty. They may have a better suggestion, if you relate the information you have. There's a lot of variables, and the chronological order of incidents and changes is very important to roll back the problems. It's probably not something they've never heard.Quote:
Originally Posted by spongebob
yeah Im not tearing the new rebuilt part..I haven't put the "new" turbo on yet.. what I was saying is I bought a $35 sensor to take care of the P003a code, then got a P2563 code, that's when I ordered a new turbo.Quote:
Originally Posted by DmaxMaverick
OK. It sounded like you already installed the newly bought turbo. You replaced the sensor, and got a different code, but the original code didn't return. Am I understanding correct? If that's the case, I wouldn't condemn the old turbo, just yet. It could be, you just got your money's worth for that $35 sensor.
well I already have the new rebuilt turbo and it came with a sensor,,bandits are getting over $3-400 for a sensor..
I read last week about Chinese knock off's of auto parts that are crap..it looked just like the real thing too.
If the going price for a common, quality sensor is $3-400, then they aren't bandits. Maybe, bit if the usual wholesale outlets are selling close to that (gmpartsdirect, etc.), then bandit isn't the right word. A Chinese (or whatever) clone or knockoff that costs 10% of that isn't likely a "quality" part. I think you got what you paid for, and if you bought it through a reputable seller, to include Amazon and eBay, you should get a refund, if it isn't too late. Many US vehicle mfg OEM parts are made in China and other outside countries, and they do well most of the time. There's a huge difference between a foreign clone/knockoff and a foreign manufactured replacement (or original) part.
Anyway, my point was, don't just yet condemn the old turbo. I would restore the original sensor, and see if it returns to the original condition (original DTC and all), or if messing with it all has caused a new DTC or condition, or changes it in any way. If the original sensor is bad, then that's what you should be working on. Replacing the turbo with a remanufactured one, including a new sensor on board, may fix the problem, but that's a lot of expense that may not have been necessary.
a "real" sensor is almost 1/2 the price of the turbo.. and if it failed Im screwed, and I dont mind getting screwed if there at least a kiss invoived..
Im tearing it apart as we speak...is there a link on this site for the DIYers? getting it done?
Over the past many years I have seen the electrical parts from the various parts houses go right in the toilet....
OEM is the best....Not cheap....but they work as good as you are going to get....
Good luck on the Turbo.
I just went through this on my 06LLY. I too, tried the sensor first, to no avail. Pulling the turbo is not fun-one of the worst jobs I've done. Patience is definitely called for. Dieselhub.com has a good, detailed tech guide for both removing the turbo and cleaning the unison ring (instead of all-out replacing the turbo).
I can't tell you if cleaning it solved my problem-I just about had the truck back together when the garage it was parked in caught on fire (I wasn't there). So did my truck, unfortunately. RIP. So now I'm shopping to replace it-wish it was because I wanted to and not out of necessity!
I'm pulling this thing apart right now and I may have bitten off more than I can chew,, videos are all over the place, if I could find a step by step video I would give up my virginity for it..right now I have the up pipe removed, belt is loose, down pipe is loose, but the manifold bolts are scaring the crap out of me would hate ot break one,They are being soaked with liquid wrench..Quote:
Originally Posted by joed
The drivers side is tricky-I had to remove the oil filter for better access. I still broke one. Overall, I had the best luck working from the pass side inner fender and lying on top of the engine. It would be a lot easier if you have a helper to guide the wrench-I didn't. Good luck.
I got as far as removing the cooler "inlet hose", that kicked my ass. I put it back together..this is a job for a younger braver dude..all the videos scared me, and up until now the only thing Ive ever feared was out of date mayonnaise..time to find a mechanic..
One of my best friends is a GM World Certified mechanic and owns a Duramax himself. He replaced the turbo on his truck recently. According to him, it's not too bad of a job if you remove the cab first! Of course, having access to a lift and the correct tools makes a world of difference. He says he can remove the cab in just a few hours, and always removes the cab for turbo replacements or head gasket replacements.
Casey
I was thinking the same thing..I have a Haynes techbook on the Duramax, they changed the turbo with the engine out of the truck...anyway a reputable mechanic is charging me $820, to change it..Quote:
Originally Posted by arveetek
So how did it turn out?
And are you the one stealing all my Reeses?