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I put in a new injection pump and it pumps too much fuel and creates a lot of black smoke. I decided to turn it down. I followed a web site and opened up the govenor housing, but mine had a spring and rod in the way unlike the picture of the one in the website. I put it back together and decided i would drive it the way it was untill i asked how to get that off. I started it and the rpm went up fast so i turned that car off, but the engine kept running above idle. I unplugged everything and it finally shut off when i pulled a line off a fuel filter. What could have gone wrong? How do you take the spring out so that I can turn the fuel down?
Thanks,
Kyle
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Why do you have too much fuel, did you get this pump built to turbo specs or 4911 specs? If so, that explains the black smoke. But, it may not be the injection pump though, you may be experiencing an EGR valve mal-function, which will SMOTHER the engine, and make it smoke Black.
As far as the engine not shutting down, it's because the shutoff solenoid on the IP cover isn't free or isn't aligned to shut off. So you'll have to take the cover back off.
I'll shoot some pictures of the process to help along with this process, it's hard for me to decribe w/o a pump sitting in front of me. I'll have some time on thursday night.
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It was built with 4911 parts, but he said he tuned it for an NA 6.2. I plan on putting a turbo on it soon.
Thanks the pics would be great.
Kyle
[ 07-06-2005, 07:05 PM: Message edited by: Blzr6.2'83 ]
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I got it from accurate diesel and I know a lot of people here said he is great. It might be the EGR malfunction, because my vacuum pump does not work and never has. But it has never smoked black before, only a little white.
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I got the pics taken of the IP internals for getting the top cover on and some pics of what to look for. I've just got to get them uploaded and off the camera.
Anyways, being that you've got a blazer with the 6.2 it came with an EGR valve and system. The problem with this system is that it does fail and when it does it allows the EGR valve to be open and allows exhaust gasses into the intake at the wrong times. The system is only supposed to work when the engine is not under much load. Otherwise you'll have too much fuel for too little air going into the engine, and this will result in the black smoke.
So, what you need to do is make sure that the vacuum line that goes to the air cleaner isn't connected. If it is, you'll want to follow the vacuum line from the air cleaner to the solenoid bank found on the Driver's side valve cover. take and cut the line so that you can now find a small bolt or screw and plug both pieces of the cut line. This disconnects vacuum from reaching the EGR valve and opening the valve. But... You mention that your vacuum pump is toast, so this might not be the fix.
The valve is also capable of blowing open and causing the same problem with no vacuum. The best case is to completly remove the EGR intake and replace the intake with a "J" series HD intake. Since you've got an 83 model you have the secondary fuel filter mounted on the back of the intake, so you'll want to find a HD intake that still has the mounting pad for your fuel filter housing in that location. This was changed in 85.
If you don't want to change the intake you can remove the air cleaner and get access to the valve and remove it from the intake manifold. You'll then need to find a freeze plug that fits the hole below where the EGR valve was. Then you're fixed. I don't happen to know what size plug will work.
If it's not the EGR system thats making your engine smoke then you're seeing overfueling or a highly restricted air intake tract, like a plugged air filter, etc.
But like I mentioned earlier, you're going to have to remove the top of the pump and get the shutoff solenoid and linkage free and working so you can at least shut the engine down. I'll try to get the pics up tonite!
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I will get the EGR unhooked, and got the solenoid back up so i can drive it the way it is. I just need to turn the IP down I think. Yeah, the pics to show me how would be great. I opened it up and didn't want to touch the springs and screw anything up.
I dont think it is the EGR though because it has more power than it ever has. I can spin the tires now sometimes, but I don't like to do it because I have no pyrometer and the black smoke makes me nervous.
Thanks,
Kyle
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Another way to turn the pump up or down is to remove the "home plate" shaped cover on the driver's side of the pump, and have someone turn the engine by hand till you see the setscrew appear in the window you uncovered (you'll probably need a light and mirror.) Then just turn it either way, making sure the allen wrench is fully engaged so you don't strip the screw (it's hard to turn.)
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Is there a gasket on this plate? Which way would one turn the screw to add more fuel?
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I have seen it. It has a rubber or plastic gasket and I think to turn the fuel down you turn it coutner clockwise. I just thought that it would be easier to adjust it from the top.
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First off, you can click on the images below for a little bigger image of what's being described.
01- This is what you'll see when you remove the top cover with the solenoid attached to it. The RED arrow basically signifies something I want to draw attention to, being the little clip. Just take note of it's orientation, it's important to assemble it like this when putting it all back together.
http://members.cox.net/acmdsl/www/iptune/01-sm.jpg
02- This is a picture of the screw on the back of the injection pump that will take an Allen wrench to remove. I broke mine as you can see, so be carefull, being that your pump was just built you shouldn't have any problem removing it.
http://members.cox.net/acmdsl/www/iptune/02-sm.jpg
03 - The screw removed, thats about it, now you know what it looks like.
http://members.cox.net/acmdsl/www/iptune/03-sm.jpg
04-With the screw removed, you can now get the spring governor out, you'll do this by rotating the throttle shaft until you can maneuver it out.
http://members.cox.net/acmdsl/www/iptune/04-sm.jpg
05 - here is the screw and govenor spring, as you'll see them.
http://members.cox.net/acmdsl/www/iptune/05-sm.jpg
06 - Once you get the spring out of the way you'll be able to see the hole where you can start adjusting the fuel. You will have to rotate the engine until you can see the screw hole. Basically you'll only see silver until you get to the black screw that takes a 5/32" allen to adjust. You'll want a helper to bump the starter over while you watch for the screw.
http://members.cox.net/acmdsl/www/iptune/06-sm.jpg
07- Here is the wrench in position to adjust. Counter clockwise will give you LESS fuel, clockwise will give you MORE fuel. You'll take small movements to adjust the fuel. For example, when INSTALLING a turbo, you'll line your wrench up (like I've done) and turn the wrench 1/4 turn clockwise to give it more fuel. For your situation, if you really do have an over fuel situation, you'll probably use a small adjustment not 1/4 turn or so.
http://members.cox.net/acmdsl/www/iptune/07-sm.jpg
Hope this helps!
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This is perfect! Thanks a lot for taking the extra time to do it. Maybe you should make it a permenant article for the newbies like me.
Kyle
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Excellent information John! A picture always explains more than 1000 words.
I made my adjustments from the driver's side cover of the IP because I couldn't loose the allen head screw you broke.
@Kyle
Keep extra care in putting the top cover on. You won't to rev up the engine to 4000+ again. ;)
IIRC there's an article with pictures in the member section how to put all together the way it should be.
Walter
[ 07-10-2005, 12:27 AM: Message edited by: waorth ]
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Thanks guys!
I knew I should have searched around, but after tearing into it and being denied I was a little depressed. :confused:
Will tackle it again this weekend.
