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56NOMAD-
I have no idea the answers to your questions but mackin or JK probably will answer.
Todd's approach is same as mine. I plan to change every 6-7k. The goal is 6 but you know how that goes.
The Stan rep I spoke to said the oem would probably never need to be changed but to do it annually as a precaution based on the 35-40k miles I said I would probably drive.
My plan on this is to do it at 5k (total 10k on the truck) so I can compare it to the first oem I ran 5k without the Stanadyne. I may not see much, the internals of the first one looked pretty good.
After that, every oil change.
[ 02-10-2003: Message edited by: TraceF ]</p>
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If the filter becomes restricted power will suffer, and an SES light may set.
When the filter gets plugged, (by customer's experience)I have seen (to the best of my recollection) #PO 0070? large fuel leak detected and and #PO 0093? low rail pressure during power enrichment. This, of course is accompanied by a lack/loss of power.
The OE element will run at approx 3-3.5"hg at idle and barely flinch from this number at 3100high idle. I've seen 5"hg at idle rising to 7"+hg. at high idle in a 15k fuel filter!
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While eating my peanut butter and jelly sandwich for lunch.....
I was thinking about a fail safe for Trace and Todd's set-up if
it became clogged out on the road or in the boon docks.
Their 2 micron "pre-filter" could be easily set up with a manual
by-pass valve in front of their filters and a tee on the return
side. Should their "pre filter" clog up unexpectedly and/or throw a code,
it would be easy to flip the valve to have the fuel pressure
restored till it is convenient to change out that filter.
Are there any problems with this logic? Once the fuel pressure is
restored will the error codes automatically be removed or do
they have to be reset?
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Well thanks for the info on the filter problem. I to appreciate everyones efforts you-all have put a lot of work into solving this problem. If it saves me $ 6,000 down the road I will be eternally grateful. Will be keeping an eye out for the finished product.
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Nomad,
If you want to go to all that trouble there would be nothing wrong with putting a tee fitting on the incoming and out going side of the filter and putting a valve on each and also connect a hose between the valves. You would just have to open both if it did stop up. You also could just take a extra filter with you. With the Stanadyne, it requires no tools and it only takes about three minutes to change.
We could "if" this thing to death. We don't even have conclusive evidence back yet to say that the Stanadyne filter will filter at 2 micron at 95% efficiency yet.
As far as the codes are concerned, I think they would clear up by themselves.
I sent two samples to the lab today. They should get them by weeks end. Next week we should know something be it good or bad. That is if UPS don't lose my samples again.
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Todd,
Me thinks you would only need one diverter valve and one tee to make it work.
We'll still wait till all the results come in and
JK can get into production. Thanks again.
[ 02-10-2003: Message edited by: 56Nomad ]</p>
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56-
Todd's point that the filter is a 3 minute change is valid. Neat thing about it is no tools.
The filter slides up over a nipple and a slip ring goes up over the filter, makes a quarter turn, and click locks.
Works good. I assembled mine when I got it and it worked so well I had to bolt it to something to un-click it.
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What about the fuel that sits in the bypass hose for a long time - would it not be prone to algae/bacteria problems? More connections to leak and possible sources of contamination...
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Why all this discussion with Racor, Dahl, Stanadyne, and Cat.
Did anyone talk to BOSCH who IIRC made the Dura-Max fuel injection system to get their thoughts on the topic?
Just a thought ;)
Carey
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Bet they'd say the cleaner the fuel the better :D
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Hey Bosch rep. What do you think?
Well; Uhh; Hmm; err; Lets see; Why don't you leave me your number. :confused:
This just about sums up the answer I got, and no returned call.
[ 02-10-2003: Message edited by: a bear ]
[ 02-12-2003: Message edited by: a bear ]</p>
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TDP probably has 500 new members since George Morrison
started this string of posts regarding the fuel filtration issues
in Oct 2002.
There is a lot of good information here and it was getting buried,
so I thought I'd be a butt and bring it back to the to the top........... :eek:
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Racor-
Please state your occupation.
Are you a Racor representative?
It would be nice to have some direct from mfr info posted we could use in our assessments.
Welcome.
To edit, check the icons by the date and time of your message.
[ 03-07-2003: Message edited by: TraceF ]</p>
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Racor: ^^^^^^^^^^
to edit click on the pencil on the posted date line at the start of top of the message. There are 3 icons there the last one is edit.
[img]smile.gif[/img]
[ 03-07-2003: Message edited by: ccds ]</p>
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It's going to take awhile to read and catch up on this topic, but I think I can join in and clear up some misconceptions about this subject.
1. All DMAX filters are made by Racor. Period.
2. All DMAX filters have Aquabloc media rated
at four (4) microns at 98% efficiency or
better.
3. DMAX filters exceed Bosch's specs. (We talk to Bosch on this subject) They remove 100% of free water.
However, don't expect diesel fuel quality to be the same as gasoline quality. There is always the chance that you will get a tankful of water and sediment laden fuel. If that happens, your're going to have a bad day, and no filter is going to save you.
You can minimize the the risk:
1. by adding a 10 micron pre-filter ahead of the Racor DMAX.
2. Pay attention to the water-in-fuel light. Drain the filter ASAP.(Suspect a bad load of fuel)
3. Change your filter at 15,000 miles or less. Don't push it. Water removal degrades as the filter plugs. (A pre-filter will help a lot to get you to 15,000 miles safely)
4. Always be aware of the quality of your fuel. Check your used filters for water, bacteria slime, and oily residue. Good fuel at 15,000 miles should leave a filter light brown/black with very little residue thickness.
That's all today.
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I have had several hats at Racor. I was the R&D lab supervisor starting in 1986, and started working as a sales engineer for Japanese market products in 1990. I've worked directly with Isuzu R&D Japan since about 1997. I project managed the the DMAX filter through the first prototypes and testing in 1998~2000.
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Assuming you're credible I for one am glad to have you on-board. When you get through the whole thread begin dispelling the myths and rumors.
Thanks... in advance.
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After reading the entire thread, I decided to just write a few paragraphs covering some of the areas that were discussed:
ON THE PARTICLE REMOVAL EFFICIENCY OF THE OEM FILTER:
Accurate on-truck fuel sampling is nearly impossible. Particles settle into every fuel system crevice and stick to hose walls. Moving a hose or opening a valve to take a sample will dislodge thousands of particles in a series of unpredictable blasts. You
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Racor- we have a forum member here who will soon be contacting you to arrange shipment of the DP flame proof suit you will need to deflect all of the controversy that this post will certainly generate.
Thank you for the well written summary of the oem filtering system.
Please allow me a few questions:
1) There seems to be a consensus that a "gunk" develops on the injectors that causes early failure as a result of poor filtration. Is this a result of the filter change interval being too long?
2) There seems to be a consensus that the high pressure fuel system is "sandblasting" the injectors to death because the oem filter is letting too much contamination pass. Myth?
3) You seem to support that no additives are needed which I think I read is also GM's position. Am I correct on this conclusion?
4) The "black" portion of the filter has been described as "dead carcasses" of microbes decaying. Myth?
5) You mention that "Both the OEM and aftermarket DMAX fuel filters exceed Bosch
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Today is just a good day to reply. I can't keep up with this and do my job too!
1) There seems to be a consensus that a "gunk" develops on the injectors that causes early failure as a result of poor filtration. Is this a result of the filter change interval being too long?
"Gunk" probably has more to do with hot diesel fuel. Heat up diesel fuel and it turns to tar. That can't be filtered. It's a better question for the fuel refineries.
2) There seems to be a consensus that the high pressure fuel system is "sandblasting" the injectors to death because the oem filter is letting too much contamination pass. Myth?
Good question. That's for Bosch to answer. If that is happening, I know the filter is not implicated.
3) You seem to support that no additives are needed which I think I read is also GM's position. Am I correct on this conclusion?
I don't support additives that contain alcohol of any type. Also, biocides are for keeping a clean tank clean, not dousing a load of bacteria to death.
4) The "black" portion of the filter has been described as "dead carcasses" of microbes decaying. Myth?
If the black stuff is wet, then it might be microbes. More likely it's just plain old asphaltines(like disolved tar). You can't avoid them; they are part of the fuel.
5) You mention that "Both the OEM and aftermarket DMAX fuel filters exceed Bosch
