Ticking Problem Found Need Advise

Well I don't think that is the problem since I removed the turbo and ran it and I could still hear the sound. I guess I will just give everything a good inspection and see what I can find.

Thanks,
Kyle

OK

With the turbo off it would certainly eliminate the issue for sure.

Only way is to look everything over real well and move on one step at a time.

Keep us posted.

Best

Robyn

I found an old memeber from here, MaxPF, who said he would help me look it over. Hopefully, we can find something. Also I called up Peninsular and they said they have some of the new forged steel cranks from AMG on order. Maybe I could get one of them modify it for a 2 piece seal and be certain crank failure would never happen. But they cost around 800 dollars...

Well, I tore it down the rest of the way today and found a larger problem. The second to last main web is cracked on the outer main bolt. Some pics of the crack are attached. I ground around it to be certain it was not a surface flaw and then used some nondestructive fualt check to make the crack easier to see.

I am thinking that the machine shop never magnafluxed it like they said, but I could never prove that. Or I was just really unlucky and it cracked when I was driving it.

Could the crack have caused the tick?


I have another block I can use that I think is crack free, but I don't know what I want to do. I might just throw this one back together and drive it until it dies, then throw in a 4bt. I just don't want to spend the money on another one to have this happen again.

-Kyle

Don't forget....faulty bearings can also make a noise travel and sound very much like a lifter ticking....

So sorry to see that ugly little crack.

Seen many in my tenure with the 6.2/6.5 family and they all bring a tear to my eye.

The crack at this point is just that, a crack. The ticking noise is in no way caused by the crack.

Truth be known that crack was most likely there long before you got the block.

The way I check these blocks is to strip the caps off the mains, wipe down the webs in the area yours is cracked and then warm the area with a propane torch until the webs are very warm.
Any cracks will start oooozing oil within short order and a little black line will show up.

Some blocks will crack down from the corner of the register where the cap seats and others will do as yours has done.

There has been much speculation as to "WHY" this happens and to date nobody has come up with a real iron clad answer.

Some speculate that the block is twisting, others that the cranks is tweeking the block.
The possibility that these blocks were not cured well before machining is also a theory.
One thing for sure is that there is very little material in the area of the outer bolt and the stress generated by the bolt in the threads is enormous and this could contribute to the breakage.

The new AMG/GEP blocks are a different alloy and are supposed to be the answer (along with the new girdle)

The alloy used in these blocks may very well be the issue and the cracks are simply due to the material shrinking and expanding during normal duty cycles.

The issue is that for the most part this crack basically renders the block a door stop.

I have seen blocks with a single crack reused.
A local shop just built a 6.5 with a crack very much like the one you show in the pix.

The crack was drilled at its deepest point to stop its progression and a stud kit was "Red Loctited" into the outer bolt holes and then a stud girdle was installed.
The studs are not torqued in real tite but only good and snug with the red loctite.

Once the loctite has cured the caps were installed along with the stud girdle kit and the center bolts torqued to spec and the outer nuts tightened to a somewhat lighter torque using blue loctite to secure them from loosening.

This is about the only thing I would consider other than a crack free block.

A crack free block is the one answer that best lets one sleep well at night

I have looked at many "Gauranteed crack free" Blocks and done the torch trick only to find one or two little cracks emanating from the suspect areas.
The seller usually stands looking with a blank stare of disbelief as the cracks start oooozing oil.

If you have a good crack free block I would double check it with your Dye Check and if its good, use it instead.


The ticking noise is not related to the cracks, this I am sure of.

Valve train, piston slap ????????


Let us know

Robyn

The machine shop was supposed to magnaflux it, but I doubt they did. Guessing from their magnaflux folly I am guessing that the ticking is their fault. I will try to repair the crack using lock'n stitch, recheck bearing clearences and put it back together. It will be a good experiment to see what happens. If it fails I will throw in a 4bt. If in a few thousand miles the crack has not grown I will consider trying to find the ticking sound. I think the sound is in the heads and has to do with the gear drive and the associated gear drive warning.

-Kyle