just replaced drivers side,,112000, was $225.00 at local parts store, took about 1/2 hour to change, really simple!!
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just replaced drivers side,,112000, was $225.00 at local parts store, took about 1/2 hour to change, really simple!!
Just last weekend I noticed a bit of noise (almost a squeaking sound) when I was coasting to a stop. This noise was present even when I wasn't riding the brakes. At 135 000 km's maybe its already in need of some new bearings?:confused:
Was this the hub and bearing complete? This is about what I was quoted over the phoneQuote:
Originally Posted by DADGLW
it was the complete assembly..even with the sensor...
BTW - just 5 months after crowing on this thread about how we never have wheel bearing problems - I bought a 2006 K3500 SRW - with a bad driver's side wheel bearing! It had 57K, the previous owner replaced it.
Sounds like you still haven't had a bearing problem.
I realize I may have really opened myself up on this one, but the assembly I was quoted from the closest dealer was $336 vs $225 for an after-market part. The first couple of independents must have been quoting the GM part based on their parts/labor breakdown.
Given the commoditization of auto parts manufacturing, isn't it possible they could even be made by the same producer?
From the independent's shop's perspective, what's the benefit of using the GM part vs. an aftermarket?
Mike
Keep an eye on the independent shops. If you are paying for an OEM part, make sure you are getting an OEM part. Often, they will charge at or near GM list, and install an aftermarket part. Not the case every time, but I've seen it too often.
You can negotiate with GM parts. I pay jobber price (the price an independent shop pays) for most parts I buy at the dealer, or I go to another dealer. Especially now, sales are down, and they need to move product to make money. Many of them realize making a little is better than none. I tell them so. The last bearing I bought was around $200-250 at GM (it's been a while). www.gmpartsdirect.com sells parts for about 60% of GM list. Their price is currently $161-246, depending on model.
I've replaced both front bearings on my 2001, at around 100K, about 6 months apart. I've replaced several of these over the years, and have never seen a catastrophic failure. They seem to always give enough warning, even when towing heavy. I don't think I would trust an aftermarket imported bearing.
BTW.....
These bearings only come in one flavor. A complete assembly, with the sensor attached. There may be a time when an aftermarket will sell it w/o the sensor, but the bearing will always be a complete assembly. After bearing replacement, keep at least the sensor. Your new sensor or harness may be damaged in the future. Replacement is simple, and GM doesn't sell the sensor w/o the bearing, the last I checked.
I have worked in a GM dealer and have friends who have or are working in a dealership. Dealers are good customers of local parts stores. Dealers use a lot of parts from local parts stores if their own parts dept is out or just does not stock a slow moveing part, alot of people would be surprised. So if you want OEM make sure the dealer is useing OEM. Now that said, if the part used is a warranty part it will be 99.9% of the time OEM, but if customer pay it could be from around the corner parts store.
We are a Delco shop and try to use Delco/GM parts whenever we can and specify ACDelco sometimes but other times just get us a quality part and get the customer done, he/she can't make money with their vehicle in the shop. bob.............
A friend of mine just had to replace the drivers side assembly on his wife's 2001 Yukon XL at just over 100k miles.
I just replaced my passenger side hub at 190,000 miles. So I think I got my money's worth out of it. :)
D.
gophergunner,Quote:
Originally Posted by gophergunner
Did you find the source if the noise? I had the same squeaking kind of noise today that you described. It showed up after a 3 hour trip to gramma's house for thanksgiving. I jacked up the front end and checked the wheels for play but they seemed tight. I also didn't hear anything when spinning the wheels by hand... made it back home without any more symptoms. In the morning I'm going to put the truck on jackstands and run it in 4WD to see if I can find the source of the noise. I also did a quick look for any pump-rub leaks on the transfer case and didn't see anything.. Anyone have similar symptoms with a bearing failure?
If it squeaks while rolling, and the bearings are tight, check these:Quote:
Originally Posted by jbplock
U-Joints
Tranny output yoke (seal may be dry, lube it)
CV joint boots. Use some silicone spray lube on them (not WD40). They May make noise when at certain angles.
Loose lug nuts
Worse.....
Just did a 2006, 3500 Dodge about 80,000 miles, front ball joints, carrier bearing and driveline u-joints, front axle pinion seal (leaking) and oil change. Had to remove front bearing/spindle for ball joints.
WOW, one bearing already previously replaced, the other would not come out. Torched the ball joints and used press to remove bearing from spindle. Bearing OK. Ball joints very loose, u-joints locked tight on one cross each joint, carrier brg because customer wanted new carrier. Dodge driveline --- PIA. Front bearings usually not easy on Dodge. Pushing big $$$.
Not just GM or even Ford and Dodge.
Toyota V8 Tundra. Head gasket leaks. Head bolts pulling threads out of blocks!!! $500 kit being marketed to repair Toy and Honda blocks, head bolt holes!!!
DM, Bob,
Thanks for the suggestions.. On the trip home today there was no bearing howl type noises and the squeaking was gone at low speeds. I'm thinking it may be the Tranny output yoke or possibly u-joints.. I've been getting a clunk for a while when backing in to the garage after a long run and assumed the yoke needed some grease .. hopefully that's all it is but I'm going to give a good check tomorrow ..
just changed out front wheel bearings. was getting a noise, like a stone that gets caught in the tread. the noise comes and goes now. cv joint maybe???
I took a closer look at mine yesterday .. started by jacking up and spinning one rear wheel by hand with the tranny in nuetral .. drive shaft turned with no noises .. u joints seemed tight. Step 2. .. put the truck on jack stands and spun the front wheels at full left to right extremes .. I did notice a slight rubbing sound from the CV boots but not loud enough to hear when the truck is running.. sprayed them with Silicone and it went away. Step 3. Started up in drive with 4WD ... no noises with all 4 wheels turning.. Step 4. Pulled the front wheels and rotated each hub by hand while listening carefully ... found a muffled squeak on the passenger side which seemed to come from the hub .. put the wheels back on and took a ride around the block with the windows down and it squeaks loud when turning and is slightly noticeable going straight. I guess the next step will be to replace the wheel bearing/hub assy.
I haven't been paying too much attention to mine lately. I haven't checked out the noise yet, but maybe next weekend when I change oil I shall have a look around at all of the previously mentioned spots.
I did pick up a hub assembly at NAPA today......for a good ol' $460:(.......but its one of those things I will even be able to change on the side of the road if I had to, as long as I have it with me.
What would happen when the bearings really do fly apart in the hub? Would I lose a tire and go skidding down the highway on the frame of the truck? Or would I get some severe wobbling and pulling to one side or another before a tire flew off?
I've never heard of one flying apart, or any type of catastrophic failure. They give plenty of warning. The design of the hub prevents it from just coming off. It will sit down and grind on itself long before separating. You'll know it by then.
Good to know. Thanks!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by DmaxMaverick