Any updates on this? Do you have things back together yet?
I know that it is much too early to ask how things work with this fix, but wasn't sure if reassembly ran into any issues.
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Any updates on this? Do you have things back together yet?
I know that it is much too early to ask how things work with this fix, but wasn't sure if reassembly ran into any issues.
The Block is all finished except to replace the cam bearings.
This is a great fix and by all indications will serve well.
Unfortunately the only other local shop doing it has been keeping the fix quiet while they scarf up all the cracked blocks that they can find "Cheap" and then repairing them and selling them in there rebuild program.
My project got sidetracked as responsibility has suggested that a TOY was not in order at this time and a more civilized vehicle should be at hand.
Things have shifted now to a focus on a 1987 6.2 Burb 4X4
It can become a great little family rig that will get excellent mileage and not be overburdened with electronics and an odometer thats past its prime :eek:
To sum it up the "Full Torque" insert is a very good repair "IF" the cracks are confined to within the length of the bolt hole.
I would not consider a repair, even of this type if the crack had spread out of the hole and into the web area.
Most of the cracks I have seen have been in the length of the hole and quite repairable.
I have however seen a couple blocks that cracked at the rigister cut and went out into the web from there. "Door stop" :(
Best
Robyn
Robyn,
I did have a block repaired using this method... I just haven't had the time to finish the project yet.
See a previous thread:
http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/t...ad.php?t=32921
The shop doing the work on my block was Garrett Engines, located in Kamloops, BC. They repair blocks for their own rebuilds.. just like your local builder. They do all 6 outer bolt holes on the 3 main webs... even if they are not cracked yet... as extra insurance ;).
I have 2 more 599 blocks with cracks... which I am more than happy to have you repair. It would be a 6 hour drive to get to you... so let me know how much you would charge me for each block.
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Although not directly related to this thread, my stalled 6.5 project includes the 599 casting, which had its 3 cracks repaired at no small cost. Its been bored and polished, align honed (twice...the 2nd time was after the cracks were repaired), decked, edges have been radiused, and pieces have been blue printed to the smallest detail... to the retarded sum of $1000.
Heads have been CNC machined and fitted with MAC hardend intersecting valve seats with the crack fix done behind the valve bowls using a threaded tube insert, knurled bronze particle valve guides. We have ported & polished the flow, and finished with a 3 angle valve grind. Topped off with Viton HD valve seals and HiPerf Crane valve springs.
The cam has been reground with a proven performance profile.
The rods have been mag'd, resized, deburred, blueprinted and balanced with new bushings installed, pressed onto new moly ceramic coated pistons 0.020 over.
The crank has been mag'd, stress relieved, minor grind and polished .010 over.
The Rings, Bearings, Double Roller Timing Chain, Premium Gasket set, ARP head stud kit, Main Web Stud Girdle, New Hydraulic lifters, etc.. etc... completes the long block.
The entire reciprocating assembly has been balanced by Cincinnati Precision Balancing.
I am $5000 into this project... and think about selling the works at a loss just to gain back some of my money. Then again, I'd love to build it, and stuff it into another project vehicle ;) .
Robyn, I just found a crack in an outer main cap hole :mad:Are you doing the lock stitch repair ? I'm in The Dalles , and could bring my block to Newberg.
You can e mail me at cliffordredj@gmail.com.
Thanks, Jeff