Time for DaHoooley engine again.

OK troops, here are some piccy's of the new AMG block as it is today

Missy

More Piccy's

Missy

A mid course Correction

Got to looking at the pistons and one just did not meet my expectations.

I also discovered that the set was of the early design with the slightly thinner crowns, so off to dig through the parts again.

The pistons that came from the original DaHoooley engine were in good shape so they are getting the job.

One piston was too large (largest of the select fit sizes used) so I saw a friend this morning and scrounged up another one that's the correct size.

Anyway, gotta clean all the little soldiers up and ready to go on the rods.

Missy

UPDATE Sunday 8/21/11

Got back at it this morning, got all the pistons on the rods, the rod bearing clearance checked, ring end gaps checked and all the little horsies stuffed into the stable (piston/rods in the block) and all buttoned up.

The next thing on the agenda is to get the oil pump back on, the timing cover on and the pan.

From there I will roll the sucker upright and install the lifters, then the heads and valve gear.

Its getting closer finally.

Will post some more pix soon.

Missy

Update 9/2/11

Got after it again this morning in a big way, well sort of a big way.
Got some gaskets the other day and this morning I did one final check on the rods torque and installed the oil pump.

The pan had been clean and wrapped up as was the timing cover.

Got the gaskets and the goop out and installed the timing cover, the ballancer and then the pan.

Looking good for sure.

When I washed the pan up last week it seemed to me that all it really needed was a quicky wash with some good oil gasoline to remove a years worth or crap from sitting.

Hmmm started washing it and the nice yellow paint blistered and came right off :eek:

I am not sure whats in gasoline now, but it sure went after that paint.

Anyway, all buttoned up and almost ready to flip it right side up.

Just need to install the oil filter adapter and filter then over she goes.

Not much left to buy (thank Gawd) still need some head gaskets and a few little odds and ends.

Will try to get a piccy or two posted this weekend (If I remember to bring my camera home from the shop)

Maybe before rain flies, DaHoooley can live again. :)

I have missed this old girl.

Later troops

UPDATE

Got back at it again yesterday ( 9/4/11) and got the oil filter adapter back on and then flipped the beast right side up.

Got the AMG heads cleaned up (had some silicone left on the VC surfaces)

Bolted the heads on and torqued them suckers down :) The last 1/4 turn ends up being a real workout when doing 17 bolts in sequence.

Got a bit of yellow paint squirted on the beast too (till the can ran dry) :eek:

Going to need to stop off at the Ma General store tomorrow and order the metric bell housing/tranny bolts with the stud tops as mine were still the 3/8 coarse thread bolts with the metric stud tops.

Had to get the metric bolts for the motor mount shells too (Block in the later engines is tapped for 10mm X 1.5 )

Definately starting to look like something again instead of a pile of parts.

Having placed all the different bolts, nuts and other small items in Zip Lock bags and labeling them mis going to make the reassemble very easy, even after a year.

I looked over all the stuff thats on the floor in the truck and it all comes back really quick.

The Zip lock bags are very cheap and a few notes jotted on each bag is all it takes to get everything right back where it is needed.

I can move along with the reassembly and just grab a few bags of bolts etc and then go do the work thats needed.

I hate digging through a bucket of bolts, nuts and parts trying to figure out what went where.

The outcome of keeping things all sorted out usually makes the end result look just like the factory had it when it rolled off the production line.

Will post more when it happens.

Missy

i like looking at pics of new 6.5's,. kinda like diesel porn,.??

:D

Nick

Diesel Porn >?????:rolleyes:

I have heard it all now. :D

Missy

UPDATE

Got back at it this morning and got the IP bolted on and the gear all installed.

Decided to go ahead at this point and install a cooler line jumper hose and prime the engine with oil.

Filled the crankcase with 15-40, installed a gauge on the rear pressure port and then set up the primer tool (Modified oil pump drive/vacuum pump with an adapter to allow running it with an electric drill.

Spun up the pump and gave a quick check for leaks. ALL OK AND NO DRIPPPPPPPPS :)

I hate this process because it can take up to 15 minutes of running the pump to get oil to all the rockers.

This one came right up and had oil to all the rockers within a minute after starting the oil pump.

Usually there will be a few that will come right up and then there is almost always a couple that just seem to take forever to get oil up top.

This one was a snap :)

So I am taking a little break and then onto gettting the Valve covers back on and buttoned up.

Now that the IP is on and the oil system has been primed its gonna go fairly fast.

Need to stop off at the Ma General store and pick up the dowel pin for the crank shaft where the flex plate goes on and the bolts for the bell housing. (They came in late in the week)

This sucker may be able to go back in within a week MAYBE :)

Later troops

Missy

UPDATE
BIGTIME

All is well here at the ranch and the new engine for DaHoooooley is all done and ready to drop back in the truck. (ABOUT DAMNED TIME EH)

Finished getting all the last little tid bits on it. Started with the injectors, injector lines and then all the elctrical wiring for the IP and sensors.

Once that stuff was on came the water X over, fuel return bridle and hoses and the return lines on the injectors.
Then came the heat shield for the RH side injectors.

Dropped the intake on and got all the stud top bolt locations sorted out and installed.

Air top hat is all on and the Turbo oil line and the cooler lines.

Serp drive brackets and the vacuum pump buttoned down too.

I can't go any farther now, the sucker is finally ready to drop back in the truck.

Washed out the oil cooler and got it all ready to bolt back on.

The new block has 1/2 inch pipe threaded oil ports to the cooler, but the old one was 3/8 pipe thread.

I had new cooler lines already and the snap in fittings so I just bought some 1/2 to 3/8 adapters. These do not have a flange on them, you simply thread them onto the original adapter and then into the block.

These adapters will allow the original fittings to be fairly close to the original location.

I loctited the adapters to the fittings and used silicone between the adapter sleave and the block.

Hoepfully if I ever need to take them out (hope never) but the idea is that the entire thing will come out of the block.

Snapped the lines back into the fittings and fastened the bracket to the front motor mount.

DONE DEAL folks.

The lines are all tied up so I can drop the engine in and then route the lines back under the grill area.

The plan is to drop the engine back in next weekend.

WE SHALL SEE

Missy

I did the same thing with the lines as you...however I think John C warned me that I have a high capacity pump now which may be causing a by pass condition,,,,

Did you re-use the old pump or go with the new upgrade??

I reused the original pump that was in the Original engine.
The engine was an early squirt block too.

The later engines have 1/2" pipe plug ports in the side and the lines are a tad different ??

The passages inside the engine are the same on all of them as is the passages leading to the cooler outlet ports.

Not sure why they went to the larger fittings.

All the other internal stuff is the same as the older blocks. The filter bypass, cooler bypass, internal passage plugs, cam galley plugs, rear plugs.

I had used the HO pump with the non squirt block that I had in the truck last year and other than some serious oil pressure when cold all was well.

The cooler lines must handle the entire flow of oil as it goes to the cooler first before getting to the filter and then the engine.

The cooler lines on the early ones have a fairly small hole thats at a right angle right at the fitting, possibly this was deemed to be too much of a restriction ?????

There is only two pumps that I have seen, one is the standard pump that was used in the non squirt 6.2/6.5 engines and then the other one is the HO pump that's used with the oil squirters.

The difference is that the pump body is deeper (gears are longer) and it delivers more oil to cover those 8 leaks that they made. :eek:

Missy

I,m not a fan of too much oil pressure,.

Looking forward to this,.

Nick

*tapping foot impatiently*

As long as the 6.2/6.5 has 40 running down the road and no less than 20 at idle it will stay quite happy.

If the HO pump is used on a none squirt block it will run 75 cold and 60 hot and idle hot at 40..

The only time I worried was when the engine was dead cold in very cold weather. :eek: the needle would nearly go off the scale.


The squirt blocks will run at about 40 hot and idle at 20 or so depending on how old the oil and filter are.


Missy

Did your weekend produce any 6.5 diesel rattle down on the ranch? Just wondering.
Denny

I guess the Robyn flew south for the winter. Hope she is ok.
Denny

All is well here.

The engine is all done, complete and ready to drop back in.
Sadly, the weather has closed in and is getting nasty.

May be able to get the rig inside one of the outbuildings in a while so that I can get the engine back in.

Off to getting things ready for winter now.

One day the rattle with come back.


Missy