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Yessss
The mechanical IP uses the cold advance and fast idle.
Simply reconnect the wires that came off the switch on the RH rear of the head by the glow plug.
The wires at the IP split and connect to the cold advance solenoid and to the fast idle solenoid.
A manual momentary switch is the best for the glow system.
A Ford starter relay and a momentary button to activate it.
The sensor in the radiator is the coolant level sender. Keep it clean. There is no temp sender in the radiator, ever, unless you put one there.
I got another one... My Chiltons book says to torque the glow plugs to 156 inch pounds or something like that. When I was installing them it seemed like I could screw them all the way through the head, they did not want to bottom out. I kinda backed out of it once the shoulder of the glow plug was recessed into the head. Any thoughts on this? Thanks again, you've been a huge help to me.
Make sure the plugs you are using are the same design/size as the originals.
AC Delco 60G plugs are the real deal and will fit correctly.
The factory plugs that have been used over the years all look the same physically, but have different internals.
Please post a piccy of the plugs you are using for us to see.
(Lay a used plug with it)
The hex portion of the plug should stay outside the head casting.
The proper plugs will have a tapered seat that seals against the head.
Place one of your new plugs alongside an old one and note the difference (if any)
I'll do that. They are glow plugs that came with the long block, I guess I was just assuming he sent me ones appropriate for the engine he sold me.
I got the engine in the truck yesterday! I am still waiting on my injection pump though. Apparently Peninsular is having troubles getting it from standadyne at the moment, It was ordered back in April.
Thanks and have a great 4th!
Figured out the glow plugs, they are not AC delco but visually I see no difference. I pulled an AC Delco out of the 6.2 and put it in the new engine and it went in past the threads before bottoming out, putting a new glow plug in the 6.2 bottomed out with 2ish threads still showing. The new glow plugs in the new engine bottomed out past the threads. Seems like a minor variation in the heads.
I plumbed in the new oil cooler today. The 6.2 had plumbing that routed oil through the radiator as well as an oil cooler. The supplier of the new oil cooler, (I ordered one for a 6.5) said the 6.5 only used the oil cooler and that I shouldn't need to run it through the radiator as well. So I plan on using the oil cooler only. Does it matter the direction the oil goes through the oil cooler? It seems to me that as long as it passes through the fins it will cool down. I don't know what the official "in" and "out" of the block or the oil cooler is; and does it matter? Thanks again for all your help. Wish I had an injection pump...
Watch eBay
I bought 2 DB2931 new military pumps,each one was less than $200 delivered to my post office.
The military pumps have ceramic pistons and plungers.
I got one ordered, just waiting on it to arrive.
Sounds like things are progressing well now.
Unless the cooler is marked with IN/OUT specific ports then it will make no difference.
Keeping the oil out of the radiator is a better way to go as the hot oil just adds more heat to the stack is all.
The later 6.5 rigs have the oil cooler ahead of the AC condenser behind the grill.
The cooler is approximately a foot square is all.
I would use the stainless braided oil lines with the JIC fittings as the stock lines are crap and will leak in due time.
That is what I've got going on, Braided line and all! I'm having my power steering hoses made up in braided line as well. Turns out it wasn't that much more expensive than buying stock ones, who doesn't love braided line? I'm back out to work on Tuesday, hopefully I'll have an injection pump when I get back and can finally finish this project up. Here's a few pictures.
Looking great
Gotta love the Square body trucks. :D:D
Make sure you secure those braided lines so they do not rub. One of my power steering pressure lines was rubbing on my inner fender and it actually rubbed through the braid and exposed the inner teflon liner which then burst and I lost power steering and power brakes at the same time.
Thanks for the warning!
Hello all,
Just got back home from work and heard that my IP will be shipping today. Which leads to the next question...What is the process for correctly installing this thing? Specifically the timing of the engine to the IP?
Thanks.
Hey...Sounds good
To get the IP on the engine and timed.
Make sure the timing gears on the cam and crank are set correctly.
Align the dot on the IP gear with the cam gears dot.
Insert the IP into the timing cover and over the studs.
The drive flange on the IP has a bolt pattern that will only align one way with the gears bolt holes.
Some IP'S have a pilot stud that indexes the flange and the gear.
Be sure to use BLUE loctite on the bolts that hold the gear to the IP.
If a bolt drops out it gets UGLY.
Your fresh IP should have an indexing mark on the top of the flange that bolts to the timing cover.
Align the mark on the pump with the mark that should be on the cover.
If no marks present then set the pump as close to straight up as possible.
Getting the timing tweaked will be a bit of guess work after you light the beast off.
***** Don't forget the gasket between the IP and the timing cover *****
Use a little high temp silicone between the gasket and the cover ONLY so the pump can be moved later.
Use a bit of light grease or vaseline on the pump flange so it will move to adjust timing LITTLE BITTY SMEAR ONLY.
You just want to be sure the gasket stays stuck to the case and the pump will move easily when needed.
Don't tighten the retaining nuts real tight until the engine is running and the timing is set.
SNUG will do for now, but DON'T FORGET TO TIGHTEN THE BOLTS FULLY LATER
Once the timing is where you want it place a chisel across the pump flange and cover and strike to make a clean sharp witness mark for future reference.
If the cover and the IP have marks USE THEM AS A REFERENCE TO START FROM.
For initial start up
With glow plugs OUT and fuel to the IP spin the engine with the starter until fuel blows out the glow plug holes big time.
Install plugs and go for a start.
This is a fast and easy way to get a fresh engine up and going without frying the starter, batteries and your patience. :)
Once running smooth, if there is white smoke it means you need to advance the IP some.
Good luck
Thank you,
My IP and misc. parts arrived a few days ago so I'm back at it. And of course it has created some more questions.
The injectors a bit shorter than the ones out of the 6.2 I assume this is a 6.2 to 6.5 difference and I shouldn't be alarmed. This all came from Peninsular, and I get the impression they are pretty legit. In my box of goodies there was a little bag of 16 copper or brass rings that would appear to go on the base of the injectors. Is this so? why are there 16?
I got the IP mounted, it seemed a little to easy...that always worries me. I am attaching some pictures.
I got a new vacuum pump today, I went with the gear driven style from a 6.2. There is one stub to attach a hose coming off the diaphragm housing thing thing. It is labeled inlet...? I guess that is because that is where a vacuum is getting pulled into? It is huge compared to the little tiny vacuum hose coming out of the fire wall. And I, with my incredible foresight, got rid of all my 6.2 leftovers last week to make room in the garage...besides the visual reference angle, there was a $15 core charge for said vacuum pump. Oh well.
Anyway, thanks for all your help so far. I would have been having a real hard time without all your help.
Somewhere around 1988, the long body injectors were changed over to the short body injectors. The long and short body injectors will interchange. It is the vans (all years) and turbocharged trucks that need the short injector for clearance.
Pix look spot on.
The injectors are different between the early 6.2 and the 6.5 (Short/long thing)
Which injector lines do you have ???
The line sets are also different as well.
If your lines are for the long injectors (taller) they may not reach the shorter injectors.
There were some changes in the injectors when GM introduced the turbo in 1992.
They needed room for the exhaust manifold to clear the injectors on the RH side and shorter injectors were used along with the matching line set.
If you have to changes the lines you must keep them as matched sets (All 8)
Every line is exactly the same length ( This is why the goofy bends and coils in the lines)
The reason is ignition timing, and the length of the line changes(can change) the time it takes the pressure pulse to reach the injector.
So if you run into issues and need to swap lines, just be sure you get a complete set.
If scavenging off a used engine be sure to remove in the pairs they are in and label the sets (2-4....6-8....1-3... 5-7)
The lines were ORIGINALLY clamped in pairs.
There are a couple lines that can be mixed up, but most really only fit in one spot, or at least properly fit.
Using the rubber isolators and the sheet metal U clamps to retain the lines is a good idea as this stops the lines from vibrating and possibly cracking.
THE VACUUM HOSE.
Originally there was a rubber adapter that connected the tiny plastic line that feeds the HVAC system to the pump.
Depending on the particular truck and which tranny it has there can be a vacuum line that goes to A CONTROL VALVE on the IP to run the vacuum modulator on the Auto trans (TH-400)
You can fabricate what you need to get your lines connected using off the shelf rubber vacuum hose fittings.
A little imagineering will suffice :D:D
Not sure why you received 16 copper rings.
A ring goes between the injector and the head.
Using the proper socket for installing the injectors is preferred, but you can do it with a wrench on the bottom of the injector body.
Good luck
Keep us in the loop.
Robyn
Sounds like things are right for now. The injection lines, injectors, IP gear, IP and hold down clips all came together from Peninsular.
I'll be out with the family for the next week.
Thanks again.
I started putting things together today and ran into another issue I was wondering if any one had experience with. The banks upper plenum/pressure chamber unit has a round opening at the base with a round gasket, My 6.5 F spec intake manifold is more squared up...the two do not match up. I called banks and they seemed kinda confused, thinking that all intakes were round. Any thoughts? I did get all the injector lines installed and the intake manifold bolted up. Why is there, what appears to be, coolant ports that come from the heads and dead head against the intake manifold? I put the same gasket sealant stuff just around those ports that I used on my water pump and left the rest of the gasket dry. hopefully that is correct. Thanks!
The 6.2L (and 6.5L N/A) and 6.5TD intake manifolds will fit on either. However, the intake plumbing that attaches to them is different. You need a 6.2L intake manifold to match your Banks 6.2L inlet. Or, use 6.5L intake plumbing, and hose couplings to connect the turbo to the 6.5L intake.
The 6.2L and 6.5L heads are universal (with coolant ports at both ends). Meaning, they can be used on either side. The "blanked" coolant ports are normal. The newer head gaskets address this much better than past gaskets, and should eliminate the pitting that was once common.
I'm referring to a rectangular port in the middle of the head that gets covered by the solid base of the intake manifold...not so much the ports at the ends of the head...or are those the "blanked" ports you are referring to?
I asked Banks about just using the 6.5 upper intake and guy thought it would be to restrictive. It's a lot shallower than the Banks unit, not as much volume I'd say. I already got rid of the 6.2 intake, besides that my 6.5 is powder coated and pretty. I'm going to go see a guy tomorrow about making an adapter plate from the 6.5 intake to the banks pressure chamber. I think counter sink the four corner bolt holes and attach it to the intake with machine screws (I think that's what they are called...beveled head and bolt threads) using the 6.5 gasket, then bolt the banks unit on over that with the two center line bolts using the 6.2 gasket. Either that or start scavenging junk yards on line for a j code intake manifold. I appreciate the input. Did you get a good eclipse show where your at?
The center port in the head is EGR. Your F code intake doesn't have EGR, so it's flat. The gasket will seal that hole, so don't worry about it.
I suppose an adapter plate could be made (and would probably work fine), but the "restrictive" and "too little volume" comments is hogwash. The least volume possible is desired, as long as it isn't restrictive. Cross-sectional volume is all that is critical. Too much volume can increase lag and blow-off bark. The 6.5L intake isn't "too restrictive", by any definition, for sane power levels. You are installing a turbo, which negates nearly any issue with N/A intake restrictions and porting. If you do go with an adapter, make sure it seals well, and is thick/heavy enough to withstand the pressure (this applies to the fasteners, as well).
Not much for the eclipse where I am. Too far south. The eclipse looked like a cookie with a bite out of it, and daylight dimmed a bit, but that was it.
My new challenge is connecting the 92 type OPS and electric lift pump into the 85 single wire OPS wiring harness. I've got a pigtail with three wires hanging off it to plug into the OPS. If I understand correctly one wire will hook to a 12v power source, another will tie into the solenoid and the third one will tie into the single wire of the existing wiring harness/dash guage. The big mystery is which wire is which. the pig tail has three black wires, so not color coded. I've attached a picture of the pigtail plug. Anybody know what wire goes where?
Here is a picture of the adapter plate we came up with, I think it will work pretty well. I might get a slight groove machined out around the 6" hole for the gasket to set in so I can be a little more sure it's centered up and sealing. For the time being it'll have to ride.
On the dual thermostat set up I'm using is there supposed to be a gasket for the housing or are the two rubber o-ring thing things that came with the thermostats all that are used? Does the rubber o-ring sit on one side or the other? there is a groove around the inside of the o-ring that looks like the edge of the thermostat might slide into it. Either way when I put it all together there is a 1/16" of an inch gap between the two housing sections. Do I just tighten it up and force it to close up? Do I use a sealant if I'm just using the rubber O-rings? It's amazing to me how, what I thought would be simple and self explanatory, turns out to be a bit confusing. Thanks for all the help.
Yes, put the t-stats in the grooves of the rubber gaskets, rubber on top and bottom. No other gaskets are required.
perfect! Thanks.
Did you have to modify the thermostat outlet for your truck?
I had to, to use the upper dual housing on my crewcab with the original 6.2 the outlet had to have a different angle for the hose to clear.
You may have to do a little fabricating for your throttle linkage and high idle solenoid.
I have a dual setup on both NA and turbo'ed engine.On the NA engine i had to rework the angle for the top rad hose and do some work to get the throttle cable hooked up..And on the 97 turbo engine when i changed to mechanical pump i had to move the high idle solenoid and build a bracket for the throttle cable.The upper hose outlet was made for the 97 so the hose route never changed.
Let me know if you would like to see what i did if you run into issues.
Thomas
I appreciate that. The dual T-stat set up I got came with a bracket to line up the throttle cable and instructions on how to modify the existing bracket to make it all work. I'm hoping to get into that this afternoon. I'll certainly get at you if I get in a jam.
Hello yukon6.2, I'd love to see your pictures of your dual t-stat/throttle bracket set up. What I got is not adding up. I'm not seeing how the high idle solenoid is going to fit in the space left over. The included instructions were brief and the reference pictures look like they were copied using the mimeograph machine from my elementary school. Thanks.
Hi 3 on 3
i just bumped up my thread on doing the conversion modifications.
Check it out and let me know if i can help with other pic's or whatever.
If all else fails my conversion truck is down at the moment and i could mail you the stuff to copy if it was sent back.
Thomas
I had sent an e-mail to kennedy diesel about how this kit was supposed to accomodate the high idle solenoid. Being as I sent it on saturday I did not expect an answer till monday or tuesday, But he responded later that day. Apparently I'm supposed to just ditch the high idle and manually turn the resting idle up to 800 and call it good. So that is what I did. I'd love to look at your thread, but I'm not sure how to find it, I haven't put any effort into it yet though.
I've been struggling through some of the final details the last few days. The stock diesel return tubing doesn't seem to work very well with the dual t-stats and the Banks turbo sitting to the front of the engine. So I had to fake that, I cut the stock tubing in half, then reworked it a bit with a tubing bender. So its now hose at the top "T" where the IP return dumps in. After installing the adapter plate on the intake my bolts were not long enough to secure the pressure chamber, none of the hardware stores carry a 8mm x 1.25 any longer than I got, so I have to wait till tomorrow to go to a specialty store. Spent all day today trying to remember how the wiring all goes back together, I'm super apprehensive about my ability to figure out crossing over the OPS and alternator wiring into the '85 wiring harness. Yesterday I put oil in it and circulated oil through the engine, I circulated till I had oil coming into the turbo and oil at both the inlet and outlet of the oil cooler, then circulated it for another 5 min. I hope thats enough, I figure if its getting through the cooler it must have worked its way through the engine. I'm kinda of at the scary stage where I'm close to trying to kick it off, but second guessing my work and worrying if I've forgotten something. That was kind of a long post, just sorta sharing where I'm at and fretting out to the internet...and hopefully somebody else will get some use out of all this later on down the road. Thanks for all your help and input.
Here are some pictures of the fuel return chop job. Passenger side, IP return and driver side. Just for fun.
And here's some more...just for fun. First off I used black iron to push the JIC fittings for the oil cooler lines out from the block, making them a little more accesible. Second, what the throttle cable modification and modified coolant thing thing from Kennedy diesel look like after I put it together, pretty clean I think. Third, The banks turbo kit is not quite the exact fit that my novice ass was hoping for. I ended up having to cut that pipe and having a piece of flex pipe welded in to give me the wiggle room needed to make it up. And last but not least, just a picture of the engine in the truck at this point. I've been holding off on the fan and radiator and such because I need that space to stand in still still. Thanks for looking.
3 and 3,
Looks like some very nice work! Way to go!
Hi 3x3
The thread is right under this one now.
It's called 98 electronic to mechanical swap
Hi 3X3
By your picture the oil lines look like they are close to the frame.
How much space do you have under the lines where they cross over the frame?
Thomas
Yukon, I found the thread, thanks. It turned out looking very nice. I'm not set up for metal work though. I was cutting down my throttle cable bracket with a hacksaw. And there is very minimal space between the frame and the oil lines. I'm guessing that's going to be a problem and I'm going to have to revisit that?
3x3,
Looks like you could use Black Iron elbows instead of the unions you used and maybe get away from the frame. Of course it is easy for us to "arm chair" advise!
Dave