Check the pilot diameter
Mine is 3.124 with the vernier callipers
So 3-1/8"
Printable View
Check the pilot diameter
Mine is 3.124 with the vernier callipers
So 3-1/8"
Measurements need to be hole centers to centers, and diameters with clamps installed. If it uses U-bolts (smooth-bore holes, not threaded), they should have a parallel "flat" area that will be the approximate diameter. The edges of the yoke saddles may be beveled or relieved, so the true diameter may not be accurate on half of a bearing cup saddle measurement. Your saddle diameter isn't consistent with any listed joint I found. Are the cup saddle bolt holes threaded?
The shaft I have:
U-joint width 3" (loop centers, from polymer groove to groove)
Bearing cup dia. 1.125"
End to end (center of joint loops) about 32". The grease is hardened, so I can't tell how compressed it is. It moves, but very little, and I didn't want to force it.
Screw-on compression slip-yoke seal (press-on seal seems to be different for some joint brands)
Attachment 6253
The flange I have is of the polymer retained type (Uses the inner C" type snap rings for service.
My flange measures 1.125" bearing diameter.
Some of these shafts used the CV (Double Cardan) joints and some did not.
My flange is the single cardan type...
Seems that Gregs Shaft and my flange might make it giddyupgo.......
Yes, the bolt holes in the u-joint axle yoke are threaded - in the bottom half of each hole. The area I measured for bearing cup diameter on the yoke is a parallel portion of the U shape. But, I was on my back beneath the vehicle with my dial caliper in an awkward position, so the measurement could be a little off.Quote:
Originally Posted by DmaxMaverick
Your driveshaft seems to be ~ the right measurement, and should be about the length it needs to be with the addition of the flange Robyn has.
If you agree, let me know how to proceed... Thanks, Jim
https://www.thedieselpage.com/images...joint-list.jpg
The joints you are dealing with are not shown in the chart.
1.125" Diameter bearing cups....(GM/Saginaw 3R Joints) Spicer number 5-3147
Just happen to have a couple of these Bad Boys on the shelf for the Snow Cat shaft.
The 3R Saginaw has 1.125" cups...Just slightly smaller than the 1350 Spicer.....the overall width is slightly larger than the 1350 at 3.650"
Basically the 3R is about the same strength as a Spicer 1350
Thanks Robyn,
Pls send me the flange, and I'll check it out for fit. Sounds like it'll work with the front driveshaft Greg has.
Jim
https://www.thedieselpage.com/images.../TC-Engine.jpg
https://www.thedieselpage.com/images...C-Engine-2.jpg
A local friend and TDP member passed away last month. I'll be attending his memorial service this Saturday. I learned from a mutual friend that he had a mostly complete 6.5TD engine, and that his widow was wanting to reduce the clutter. I stopped by this afternoon to express my condolences, and to help with the clutter... I bought the engine without knowing its history... Came with most of a shopping cart.
It remains to be seen what condition the moving parts are in, but I do know that the intake had been off of it for quite a while, and that the intake runners in the cylinder heads have some surface rust inside. The engine had been stored inside a building, but little else was done to keep the crud out of it. The crank didn't want to rotate with light effort... A bit greasy and looks well used, but it's a "599" block and had been an HD electronic engine (HD intake manifold). No holes in the pan, and the crank pulley and damper look to be in the right place... Jim
Extra parts are always nice to have.
Could be a great score......
Yank the glow plugs and squirt the holes well with some sea foam or other good skunk pizz....
Let it set for a week or so.....
We think a lot alike! I had done most of that. The glow plugs on the turbo side of the engine are harder to get to. I did the other side, as well as squirt some WD and motor oil into the intake runners in the heads. I'm hoping I'm pleasantly surprised when I get it apart. ;)
With the engine out the glow plugs should be easy to get to....
Pop the bolts out on the little tubes that protect the wires and get right in there....
Thanks to Robyn and Greg for the front driveshaft parts! I'll post a pic once it's ready to go in.
Here's what the engine looks like as of about 15 minutes ago. Painted and the reassembly started. Hoping to get it set into the chassis this coming weekend. I had already installed all of the fittings so I could pre-oil the engine. My trusty battery powered drill/driver could muster 35 lbs of oil pressure. Interesting how much power the oil pump takes once pressure has been developed on a cold engine.
https://www.thedieselpage.com/images...-9-27-2021.jpg
https://www.thedieselpage.com/images...nterior-sm.jpg
It's pretty nice inside. We had power connected this weekend so we could run the windows up/down to replace the lower window seals for the side windows - rubber strips that seal against the glass. The new parts improve the look a lot, as will a new windshield. ;) Of course, we discovered that the driver's side power window regulator was crap... so a new one was installed. Sounds easy... We replaced the rubber lip seals on the inside/outside of the window channel while the door panel was off. That sounds easy too... Needed to re-staple the new lip seal to the door panel. Door panels are a bit fragile. We were careful, and did a good job. The new power window regulator works perfectly. Sarah learned what happens when you push the power window button on the door... or what happens when it doesn't move the window.
https://www.thedieselpage.com/images...hood-02-sm.jpg
What do all those things do? The parts I'm holding appear to be the oil cooler lines... Just kidding... ;) So much wiring! All those wires look like a lot of fun... I knew that "now" was the time to make any needed wiring harness repairs and clean the harnesses up a bit. I changed out the complete glow system harness, and replaced it using a new harness that had ceramic electrical connectors. I had accumulated quite a few new/like new/improved 6.5 parts through the years. I used as many as I could on this build, which stepped up the appearance/functionality of the engine installation.
Jim
We need your help too! Did this forum thread or YouTube video help you with your 6.5L Turbo Diesel? Would you like to share this information with others or help us get the word out about the 6.5? It's easy! Simply link to us in your own YouTube video, or post the link(s) shown here in a forum post, email message or social media site. Thank you!
thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?46770
https://youtu.be/9Il2deqwXLA
Looking great.
I love the interiors of the earlier GMT400
After working on the engine harnesses and a few other misc items on Sunday, to prepare for the engine install, we got the engine set into the chassis yesterday.
So far, after getting the engine in, we've reconnected the motor mounts, trans bell-housing, oil cooler lines and a few other misc items. Most of the engine brackets and accessories had already been bolted to the engine prior to the installation (starter, ex manifolds, DS4, water crossover/t-stat, vac pump, ps pump, injectors, glow plugs and fuel return hoses/lines). Didn't install the steel fuel injector lines or intake manifold because I wanted to use the space in the engine valley to make it easier to install the top two trans bell-housing bolts and the fuel line/harness brackets that attach to those bolts. Here's how it looked just prior to going in...
https://www.thedieselpage.com/images.../Blazer-10.jpg
Looks good seeing it in there. More work than I remember though :eek:... due to not having a vehicle lift and the fact that the transmission was already in the Blazer. We needed to tilt and rotate the engine (as it was suspended by our engine hoist) as it went in, and my daughter suggested I use motorcycle ratchet straps to do the tilting and rotating... Great idea!
Looking good. I bet you cant wait to drive it again.
One tool for the tool box IF YOU DON'T HAVE ONE
15mm Gear wrench ratcheting box open end with flex head
The two top bolts can be put in quite handily with one of those wrenches.....
I tossed the stud top bolts that were in that location as far as I could throw them.....
The fuel line bracket bolts there and the locking nuts that were on the top of the stud ends started turning the bolt....Made a nasty job of that area....
I made a little bracket to bolt elsewhere to hold the fuel lines....
I also tossed the stock fuel manager in the dirt and mounted a Racor up front on a bracket that shared holes with the ABS unit....
Far easier to get to.
With the fuel filter out of the way....the two top bolts are a breeze....
About the only other thing in that area is the big main engine harness plug....
A set of those Gear Wrench's with flex heads are the cats Azz.....in SAE AND METRIC....
Going where other tools can't.....
Get a little movement...or a lot.
Another secret.
Remove the frame portion of the RH front motor mount.
Lower the engine in and it will slide right in and then over against the LH mount. Hold with the hoist...
The put the frame portion back in and you are golden
The Bell housings tend to hit the tunnel (Older the rig the more the body has settles )
Having the front tire on the RH side off and the rubber inner fender flap off.....You can get to the glow plugs easily....accept #8
Also the starter front support and the wires are all right there within easy reach......
On the Dahooooley I cut a mouse hole ...Actually a rat hole in the inner fender back by the area where the heater hose connects.
Gets ya to the heater hose and #8 glow plug.
Added a little cover plate held in with a sheet metal screw.
I do believe pics were posted back in the day....2014 IIRC .....
I hate fighting stuff.....Also reduces the BLUE AIR and the need for BANDAIDS...
Middle picture in the referenced post...this is the view through the Rat hole.....Easy to change the heater hoses and glow plug#8
If you decide to make the RAT hole....Be very careful in the area as the main wiring harness from the ECM is right in there.....Sheet metal shoved in to protect things is a must have.
Second pic from the left shows the red bolt....Starter support....This area is where all the starter wires are too...
Glow plugs are a snap..... Also the number 8 injector is right there AND THE RUBBER PLUG on the rear nipple too.
I can get my hand and tools in THE RAT HOLE
https://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?t=43423&highlight=CHANGING+GLOW+PLU GS
:)Quote:
I hate fighting stuff.....Also reduces the BLUE AIR and the need for BANDAIDS...
The passenger side head is right up against the fiberglass pad. Amazingly tight. The packaging musta been designed without padding. My hands were all itchy and beat up (but not too bloody) when I finally called it a day. What remains of the underneath stuff is easier to get to, so it'll not be too bad.
I remember back when I installed the 6.5 in our Power Project truck, that I removed the frame half of the motor mounts (part with the rubber) and just bolted new ones to the engine half of the mounts - on the engine, then set the engine in that way. Getting the engine sitting in the chassis was real easy, but getting the frame half of the mounts bolted to the frame took a couple hours... It's really tight, and you're working with lock nuts that don't turn easily, and you can't get more than about an 1/8th of the turn at a time. A little blue air, maybe...
On the Dahoooley the frame mounts went in easy...
Used a wiggler and a helper...Took 5 minutes maybe.....
The lock nuts are not a big help though....
Daughter is pretty excited to be able to drive it. This is the first vehicle she's expressed this level of interest "in the vehicle", aside from just basic transportation. I'm happy for her. I felt/feel that way about a lot of vehicles I've owned through the years, especially those I put significant sweat equity into. She's seen the very inner parts of the engine. She helped install the cam bearings, cam, crankshaft, rods and pistons and everything that followed. She'll have a level of understanding about what makes a motor run that she didn't have before... assuming it all works. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by a5150nut
This is a great thing for the young lady......Not that many girls get to this level of understanding of "The ways of the force"
Far too many never get beyond the turn the key and go....
Getting ones hands dirty brings the entire picture into focus....really well.
Your daughters vested interest in the rig will go far in her taking good care of it too.
My 14 year old daughter has become interested in this type of thing, especially after taking a "Life Skills" class at school where they have learned basic auto maintenance. Funny thing is, I've tried to get her to help me in the shop before, but she wasn't interested until a teacher showed her the same stuff? Anyway, she was able to change the oil on my wife's Acadia on Tuesday night; she did most of it herself; I had to help her get the oil filter loose since it's in a really tight spot, but otherwise she did the whole job with only a little supervision.Quote:
Originally Posted by Robyn
Casey
Have a look at the harness pointed to in this image. Does it go on top of the fuel injector lines (yet to be installed) or beneath them?
https://www.thedieselpage.com/images...-valley-01.jpg
I pre-installed the fuel filter assy and all of the fuel supply/return lines/hoses. I just couldn't remember if the big IP harness lays on top of the steel fuel injector lines or lays in the engine valley beneath the 8 injector lines. Thanks! Jim
Lays in the valley...
"DOWN IN THE VALLEY" ;)
This one has all the connectors that hook up to the various points on the IP and other stuff close.
I recommend that you strip the wrinkle loom off and check for damage to any of the wires.
I replaced the one on the Dahooooley as the wires were in sad shape from chaffing on the loom.
Any damage can be tapped up or otherwise protected....
Thanks, that actually makes it easier. I've done quite a bit of wiring repair, re-taping and general fixup, but I'll take the loom off that big harness to have a look-see.Quote:
Originally Posted by Robyn
Jim
https://www.thedieselpage.com/images...22-2021-sm.jpg
Closer... yesterday, I installed the fuel injector lines, fuel filter, oil pressure switch, new glow system harness, and intake manifold.
The intake I'm using here is the HD version from the spare engine I acquired a few weeks ago. And, we used a set of new "take-off" fuel injectors lines that I acquired from Peninsular Diesel back in the 1990's. Spiffy!
I'll likely leave the top of the intake off so I can prime each cylinder with a wee bit of fuel - to help it get past the inevitable airlock. Of course, I'll not crank it till the engine block heater has been plugged in for a 2-4 hours. I recall that the 1994 models won't cycle the glow plugs after disconnecting the batteries. This "problem" goes away after the first start.
JUST A HEADS UP ON RAGS STUFFED INTO THE INTAKE.
A few years ago a friend of mine had just finished up a 6.5 for his truck.....Had a small fuel leak so he took the intake off to find it.....
One fuel line was not quite snug enough.....He went to dinner and was so happy with how well the new engine ran....came home and stepped into the garage and hit the key to have one last listen to the new engine..
He had laid some rags over the open intake ports........Sucked a rag into the engine....Rag held the valve open, broke a piston then blew the cylinder wall out...
THE CARNAGE DID NOT STOP THERE.....
ended up bending a rod and messed up the crank too.
Total destruction...in a few seconds.
I make it a point to never lay rags over an engine...especially after its in the rig.
Duct tape is somewhat safer...
A fine screen cut to size with fasteners to hold it over the opening...
GM actually had a set of port covers in the special tools list that were a screen....The engine could be run but nothing could get in past the screens.
PULL THE GLOW PLUGS OUT.
Make sure there is fuel to the IP
Less than 30 seconds on the starter with zero load and she will be blowing fuel mist out the holes.
Install the plugs and fire it off.
Much much easier on the starter, batteries and the patience.
With zero compression the fuel comes right through easily....
I've heard of that happening... Once on a 6.2 where the owner placed a towel near the air filter intake hose. It sucked in the small towel which collapsed the air filter element, but luckily it got balled up enough that it couldn't force its way past the top of the intake manifold. I promise to be careful...Quote:
He had laid some rags over the open intake ports........Sucked a rag into the engine....
But, the glow plugs were so easy to install while the engine was on the engine stand... I may take out some of the easy ones. I actually did that back when I first started our 6.5TD Power Project engine, after it had been rebuilt and was at this stage in reassembly.
The plugs are easy to get out.
On the RH side,...
Remove front tire and the rubber inner fender flap.
Sit on a bucket and reach through the hole in the inner fender.
I do the prime up before the exhaust and turbo go on with a fresh install.
You can easily get all but number 8 plug
Looking good!
Getting close to the last of the puzzles... one more...
The heavy battery positive cable that runs from the passenger side battery to the starter is paralleled by a +batt power lead that connects to the power lug strip located behind the "T" shaped plastic cover on the firewall (where the lift pump fuse is located). My question is... does that +batt lead run outside the downpipe or inside against the engine block? I don't have a good handle on how to route that wire.
I've gone though my photo archive, but can't find a shot of that area. Thx, Jim
Robyn said "You can easily get all but number 8 plug"
The number 8 injector is no picnic, either:
Attachment 6300
I believe the original routing on that cable was along the block.
I have replaced a few over the years and have run the new one right down the inner fender under and around stuff and then into the junction box
That cable has a habit of becoming crappy where the small cable is spliced into the larger one.
I have used the multi post optima batteries and then soldered the eyes on the cables and then used the marine post type terminal that have the threaded rod sticking up on the end opposite the clamp on bolt.....
Very easy to see if you have corrosion and also easy to clean it.
The factory cables are crimped and they do get nasty inside the jacket....
The only easy fix for easy access to the #8 glow plug, injector and the heater hoses is the addition of the Mouse hole I spoke of earlier.
The mouse hole makes life a lot better....Far less blue air....
https://www.thedieselpageforums.com/...1&d=1635780718
Big day yesterday! There really were hoots and hollers. :cool:
Was a bit cool the evening before (21 degrees F overnight), so I planned on using the engine's block heater... unfortunately, the plug end had a broken wire which prevented it from working. Got that fixed with a new plug from ACE, then let it warm up as daughter filled the cooling system, I installed the new batteries and we poured in 10 gallons of fresh diesel fuel. This was followed by purging the air from the fuel supply side using the Blazer's electric fuel lift pump. We used the lift pump to purge the air from the fuel filter and the fuel supply line to the fuel injection pump. Cracked open the fittings on a couple of injectors, then squirted about a teaspoon of diesel fuel into each intake runner. The engine was warm to the touch, so we let the glow plugs cycle, then cranked it. It immediately fired on the raw fuel, stumbled and then stopped firing. Now, I tightened the loosened fuel injector line fittings, as raw fuel was seen weeping from the loosened injector fuel line fittings. Took another crank before it ran on its own! Daughter was pretty excited! She was a part of it all from start to finish... from the installation of the cam bearings to mixing and pouring in the coolant.
No SES lamp!... amazing, just amazing! No trouble codes! After sitting in a thousand pieces for 11 years, and all of the wiring disconnected...
However, not being 100% confident a few weeks ago, I didn't install new injectors - wanted to hedge a bit just in case any one of those thousand pieces prevented success. The old injectors unfortunately weren't kept clean when they were removed all those years ago and were just thrown into a box with other engine parts. But, I did clean them as best I could before installing them a couple of weeks ago while the engine was on the stand. In any case, I know it needs a fresh set of injectors, and it'll get them soon. At least one of the injector nozzles is leaking fuel (miss, fuel smoke), which again, doesn't surprise me (had to scrape aluminum off one of them from the melted piston). Besides, I suspect the injectors are original to the engine/vehicle with 187k miles on them.
The Blazer needs to be licensed and insured before we can take it out on the highway, but we did drive it closer to home, on a private road. The brakes need help, before it'll be safe for highway speeds. The 4L80 needed nearly a gallon of ATF to bring it up where the stick says it needs to be. All of the dash gauges appear to work correctly. The fuel gauge was a little reticent at first, but I suppose that sitting for all those years with a nearly empty tank made the sender a little cranky. But, it ran and drove pretty well otherwise. :) Yay!
Congrats! You're making much quicker progress on your project than I am! But I'm not terribly far behind....
Casey
Just glad I'm not a mechanic. I couldn't make any money as slow as I work.Quote:
Originally Posted by arveetek
https://www.thedieselpageforums.com/...2&d=1635803011
Here's a shot of how it looked when we finished for the day (Sunday 10/31/2021) - hood back on and everything buttoned up. This is the vehicle I used to produce the very first "FSD Cooler" article/product review (very first PMD/FSD cooler discussion on the internet) in the spring of 2000, which launched an entire cottage industry of FSD/PMD coolers and remote mounting kits. Oh, the stories I could tell... I still have that first FSD Cooler (it came with the Blazer when I re-acquired it), but chose to install a new one that Beta Machine sent to me quite a while ago now, with the instructions to install it on the wife's (now daughter's) Blazer on the intake manifold location. So, here it is... New parts!
The prior owner of the Blazer had purchased a new Stanadyne module (a black one), and kept it in a box in the center console. I chose to install that one on the new FSD Cooler along with a #4 resistor that I had on hand. The original FSD mounted to the DS4 had a #4 in it, but what's interesting is that the FSD module that was on the original Cooler (when I reacquired the Blazer) didn't have a resistor in it... The original FSD module musta been replaced sometime by the new owner, who didn't know about the resistor.
The turbocharger's vacuum wastegate actuator had been replaced with a TurboMaster. Not sure how the PCM works with it..., but we'll find out.
We're using a 50/50 solution of Dex-Cool and distilled water (exactly 6 gallons total) instead of the green stuff. I'm a firm believer in Dex, for the 6.2/6.5 as well as the Duramax!
While the engine was warmed up and idling I removed the oil fill cap to check for blow-by. Didn't see any, thankfully. And, after getting the air bleed valve on the thermostat outlet housing tightened down, I didn't see any drips beneath the vehicle.
Looks like injectors from reputable vendors are running about $60 bucks a pop. A little pricey nowadays... Makes me want to experiment with new Bosch nozzles for about $74 a set of 8. :eek:
Jim
I absolutely love my Turbomaster with Kennedy's TD-Max chip. Works together flawlessly and boost is consistent and smooth. With the stock programming, not so much. It would go into limp mode every time I towed.Quote:
Originally Posted by More Power
Casey
Good info to know. Thanks...Quote:
Originally Posted by arveetek
As I recall, this Blazer had/has an aftermarket chip. I know when I sold it that both a Kennedy and a Heath chip went with it. I don't know which is installed now. Whichever it was, that chip was in it when it was pushed to a point of melted pistons. The melted piston was the driver's fault, not necessarily the chip's, though some could argue that the leaking injector may have played a role.
As I've explained before, the injectors were loose in a parts box when I re-acquired the Blazer. I had scraped a small patch of melted aluminum off the nozzle of what I believe may have been the original #8's injector (because the melted piston was in the #8 hole). The now clean injector looked like all of the others at the time of re-installation. So, it would have been shear luck to have installed the original #8 injector in the #8 spot.
By the way, there were a couple of other pistons that suffered heat damage. The one shown here in this thread was the worst by quite a ways.