Glad to see all the great progress.....
Printable View
Glad to see all the great progress.....
Thanks Robyn...Quote:
Originally Posted by Robyn
https://www.thedieselpageforums.com/...9&d=1635958600
I also did something during assembly that we've weighed the pros/cons about here in the forum before, regarding the 1997+ cooling system mods.
I couldn't locate a new double thermostat crossover housing - though I really didn't look too hard. But, I spent some time pondering the high-flow 130-gpm water pump, which this engine got during re-assembly, and how it would work with the single t-stat crossover. To make it work without the pressure buildup the GM cooling engineers said was possible, I installed the larger coolant bypass hose and fittings that run between the crossover and the top of the water pump, removed the bypass-blocking thermostat and then installed a non-bypass-blocking single hi-flow thermostat. That much, is the same operationally, when compared to the twin stat crossover/cooling system when the thermostat(s) are closed or only partially open.
The only negative to this arrangement is that the full benefit of high-capacity flow through the radiator will be reduced by a small amount when compared to the 1997+ systems when those twin-stats are fully open, but there shouldn't be any pressure buildup in the cooling system when compared to a double t-stat crossover. If this were a tow rig I'd have spent more time looking for a twin stat crossover, but this Blazer will likely not see much heavy towing... ;) In any case, the cooling system should be an improvement over the original by simply moving more coolant through the block/heads more or less continuously (less likely to crack heads) just like the complete 1997+ cooling system. Jim
You can read more about the 1997+ hi-capacity cooling system here:
TheDieselPage.com - 6.5L Diesel Tech - Dual Thermostats. What’s the real story? - Updated November 2018
Another little tid bit is to drill a 1/8" hole in the T STAT (In the plate portion)
This likely has zero effect on the water pump.
But it will allow the air to burp from the cooling system
during initial coolant fill.
Some stock Stats have a little burp valve (Little hole with a tiny valve) some don't....
Leaving the hole in the stat just assures there will not be an air lock.....
The bleeder on the housing is nice too.....The initial start will see a full cooling system without having to leave the Rad cap open during the first warm up cycle.
I think the new t-stat I installed had a formed notch that would function as an air-bleed for the system. The cooling system was pretty easy to get full, but we'll see how it looks after we start driving it.
One another subject: Injectors...
https://www.thedieselpageforums.com/...0&d=1636046618
Seems diesel fuel injection vendors are transitioning away from the 6.2/6.5 injectors, which includes Kennedy. He may not be offering 6.5 injectors for much longer, if at all. I bought the above set from USDieselParts.com, a local to me vendor. About $60 each, but these are brand new injectors straight from Germany (update: made in India, see next post), so there is no core charge associated with their purchase. They don't come with copper washers or any other installation items, but all that is available from USDP as well. I bought one of their injector install kits a while back that includes an intake top piece gasket, injection pump flange gasket, 8 copper washers and a full set of hoses/plugs for the return lines - about $30 some bucks iirc.
USDP told me that they were no longer rebuilding these injectors. Combined with what JK said, I suspect the availability may not continue as we've always expected. So... if your 6.5 needs injectors, I'd not wait much longer. The cheap stuff off eBay will likely be available for some time yet, but who really knows about that stuff?
Do your injectors state they are made in India? My "genuine" Bosch injectors have the same label as yours, shows they came from Germany, but also shows they are made in India:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...38d1af92_b.jpg
Casey
You are right, the packaging does say "made in India" :eek:. I guess I stopped looking once I saw "Germany" on the packaging... Thanks for the catch.Quote:
Originally Posted by arveetek
What's interesting is that I removed the injectors from the "spare" engine I recently acquired so I could use them for the cores (didn't need them), and saw that the sooty side of the injectors looked like they were practically new - almost no carbon buildup on any of them. Made me wonder about the sequence of events that led to that engine being pulled. I need to spend some time looking at them...
I ended up purchasing my injectors from John Faddis at Quadstar Tuning for $370 plus shipping for a set of 8. I am very happy with his service and prompt shipping. I also ordered quite a few other parts from him.Quote:
Originally Posted by More Power
I tried going through Kennedy first (always my first place to shop), but like you, was unable to source them from John. I completely forgot about US Diesel Parts (I should have looked at TDP Vendor list). I was a bit hesitant to try a new source that had such a good price, but I have been very pleased with his service so far, and it appears I did, in fact, receive genuine Bosch injectors. They were completely sealed in plastic bags inside the Bosch boxes with the same plastic caps you pictured.
Casey
https://www.thedieselpageforums.com/...5&d=1636145318
Thanks again to Greg and Robyn for the front driveshaft parts. Here's what the parts look like now. Had the pros shorten it a little bit to 31-1/4" between u-joints center-to-center, install new joints, clean/lube the slip joint, precision balance and then paint it. It looks like a new piece. Happy camper! :cool:
By the way, I sent this image to my daughter a bit ago. She immediately called back! She likes nice new looking parts too!
Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet.
Happy to have been able to help.
Purdy!
My pleasure.
Good to see it coming together!
I finished the injector replacement this afternoon. In the end, it runs really well. No missing, no injector knock and no smoke - just the typical 6.5 rattle. Touching the alternator while it's idling shows it to be very smooth. I'll eventually get a TDC-Offset performed to make sure the timing is close. Sounds a little advanced now... just a little.
I had started it after replacing the 4 injectors on the driver's side. I didn't want all 8 airlocked... It started right up, and I ran it till it was as smooth as it was going to get. Apparently the leaking injector was on the passenger side, which produced a fuel knock and smoke.
https://www.thedieselpageforums.com/...6&d=1637024952
The turbocharger needed to come off to make is easier for me to change the passenger side injectors. I couldn't get the injector heat shield off with the turbo in place. As usual for Murphy's law, the #8 injector was the one leaking fuel into the cylinder. The nozzle on #8 was wet when I removed it, whereas all the others were just sooty black.
After finishing the injector install I just cranked it without a prime, because I had run it after changing the other 4 injectors...
But now, it wouldn't start. So I primed it, then it would hit on the prime, then nothing. I removed the intake top, then primed each of the 8 cylinders. It would run on the prime, then stop. Did that a few times, till I replaced the NOS black PMD with a used spare PMD. It started right up and smoked a fair bit till the prime fuel was used up. Who would have guessed that NOS POS PMD would do that?
Next problem - the brakes... Pedal nearly goes to the floor. I'm guessing a master cylinder. The brake light on the dash came on a couple of weeks ago after I pressed the E-brake pedal. I haven't eliminated an e-brake switch yet...
We need your help too! Did this forum thread or YouTube video help you with your 6.5L Turbo Diesel? Would you like to share this information with others or help us get the word out about the 6.5? It's easy! Simply link to us in your own YouTube video, or post the link(s) shown here in a forum post, email message or social media site. Thank you!
thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?46770
https://youtu.be/9Il2deqwXLA
NOS POS PMD... that made me chuckle! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by More Power
Casey
You know, I bought my very first ratcheting wrenches a few weeks ago. That set had a 3/4" in the set, which would allow me to use it on my 6.5 injector socket in tight spaces. Turns out I didn't need it, but they are pretty sweet. I'll look for a set like you mentioned (includes a 15mm swivel head). I was gifted another rolling tool box a few weeks ago... Gotta have stuff to put into it now... ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Robyn
I was wondering if anyone would catch that...;)Quote:
Thanks for sharing your daughters build! It looks nice and clean like it was factory. What is the part number for the non-bypass-blocking single hi-flow thermostat that you added to the single stat? I was actually surprised to read that you went with the single instead of the dual and didn’t add more upgrades to the motor. But as a normal daily driver, I understand the lack of need for them.
I had scoffed at the ratcheting box end wrenches as being an answer to a question that was never asked.
I was Waaaaaaay WRONG ON THAT ONE...
I bought an SAE set as well as the METRIC set (Harbor Freight ) and have put them to the test many times.....Most jobs they sit in the drawer....but when you need one for a tight spot.....Yeah buddy.....they gitterdone.
I also make it a habit of buying the odd handfuls of wrenches at garage sales for a few $$ and tossing them in a drawer.
I have a bunch of odd looking stuff the we have crafted to get at nuts and bolts that were simply not doable with conventional wrenches.
Some of the creations look like they were hatchlings from your worst nightmare.
Saves having to hack up the good tools.
The Son inlaw has an 08 Dodge 6.7 and we needed an odd wrench.....it must be a special Cummins tool......Nothing would fit in the location and work.
Heated, bent, twisted and tweaked....Welded on a handle.....Nut came off... Patience was badly distorted in the process though ....
Sorry, I tossed the box. That t-stat was one I have had for a long time. I used it for demo-photo work back 20 years or so.Quote:
Originally Posted by 2INSANE
It looks like this one: https://static.summitracing.com/glob...-330-195_w.jpg
I used Robert Shaw t-stats in our performance 6.5 builds in the past. They are a high-flow design.
If this Blazer was being put together to tow, I would have installed the twin stat crossover, but it's not, so a compromise was made that shouldn't affect the engine. Daughter plans to use it to commute occasionally when the weather is snowy, camp occasionally in the summer, and carry a kayak on its roof rack occasionally. She has a car that gets 2x the fuel economy, so... This way it stays in the family.
I like having tools! A lot of my stuff is the Craftsman brand - going back 10-30+ years. I've found the quality of many of the Harbor Freight tools is quite good - easily comparable. I now have a bunch of their wrenches. However, I recently bought a HF metric tap/die set... Got it to refresh the fasteners for the 6.5 project. But the quality was so awful that it was unusable, so I made do with my smaller Craftsman set. I need to take my reading glasses with me when buying stuff. :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by Robyn
Taps and dies need to be made of "High speed steel" (Not meaning fast)
The high carbon steel stuff that most hardware stores and HF sell are junk.
High speed steel, cobalt and carbide are the real deal.
I have a few cobalt....a couple carbide taps....all the rest are high speed steel.
These cost a lot more than the hardware store high carbon stuff.
High speed is the standard for more industrial machining.....Get into aircraft or exotic metals....then comes cobalt and carbide tooling...$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
A high carbon tap can possibly CLEAN UP a dirty thread....MAYBE....
I have had to dig broken ones out....SO I DO NOT USE THEM....
AVOID THE TiN (Titanium Nitride.....Gold colored)
These are simply TiN coated high carbon steel.....MORE JUNK
Same goes for TiN coated drill bits.......
High speed steel.....GOOD STUFF...OR COBALT if the going gets tough.....then beyond that comes carbide.....
HF screw drivers are junk....Same for the drills....band saw blades are junk too...
Their power tools are pretty decent.
Wrenches are good.
I bought an air compressor from HF after my 30 plus year old unit came apart one day...
It started sounding odd....By the time I got into the shop it was shedding pieces...BIG ONES...
Anyone know what that wire is for at the top of the rear hatch lift strut? It had apparently been broken off for quite some time. The driver's side strut has an identical broken wire, and there is a matching wire (not broken) on the opposite end (bottom end) of each strut. The rear wiper works just fine, and the electric rear gate unlatch works fine too.
There is a dash control for a rear defog, but the glass doesn't have the typical embedded heat element...
By the way, we installed the new front driveshaft on Sunday, then took it for a drive around our property in 4WD. Seems to work great! Just gotta get the brakes fixed (pedal goes almost to the floor and doesn't pump up)... will be getting a new master cylinder this week (an ACDelco unit from Amazon). Hope that's it. :p
The rear glass may have been replaced on the cheap, omitting the heater grid, or it may not have been available at the time of replacement. Other connectors may be for closure switch, power lock, or lighting (CHMSL, courtesy, license plate). My 2001 has a wire/connector at each end of the rear glass for the heater, which seems silly (should be a single harness and connector, but they didn't ask me). I also replaced the HVAC control head to add the "Rear" option for heated mirrors. Mine wasn't originally equipped with rear defog or heated mirrors. When I replaced the rear glass years later, I added the defog option (the harness connectors were there). The GMT-400 models may be similar, in that the HVAC control can be swapped with or without the "Rear" option. It's possible your control was replaced with the option, never having the rear defog glass option.
https://www.thedieselpageforums.com/...2&d=1637605337Quote:
Originally Posted by Robyn
I bought one of their decent power compound sliding miter saws earlier this year - I have a cabinet type project to complete. The saw is easy to set up and the quality seems to be pretty good - certainly adequate for anything I'll need. It makes nice true cuts - I like it. Wish it was made in North America, but not much of anything is anymore...
The Center High Mounted Stop Light is there and works as advertised.Quote:
Originally Posted by DmaxMaverick
It seems odd to me that the struts themselves would be used as part of an electrical circuit - since both ends of each strut has an electrical connector like the one shown in the photo. Everything appears to work except for the rear defog, but there is no grid in the glass and no lose connections anywhere that would connect to a glass grid heater. Unless there's a duct that takes defroster air to the rear... I agree with you... till I learn otherwise, that the switch on the dash may have been swapped in when the option wasn't in the vehicle. Maybe I could check the RPO codes in the glove box...
It's for rear defog, whether the glass is right or not. Many replacement parts specify it. I think it's likely the rear glass has been replaced without the heater grid option. When I replaced the rear glass on my 2001 the price was the same for either, but it may have been significantly different for the Blazer glass, or it could have been an availability vs. necessity issue.
I have the same type of saw....Earlier one ....Mine is not the Bauer brand....
I think mine is the Chicago Electric
Been a great saw...
They are all copies of the various name brand saws.
Buddy of mine who is a carpentry contractor stocks his work Vans with HF tools.
Only his long time workers get the good stuff.
If the person takes good care of the cheap crap....then they will move up to a newer van and better tools.
I used mine when I installed the Pergo floor in the dining room/living room.
Great for cutting the moldings at the floor.
I have used it for a few other jobs...Son in law borrowed it a few times until missy bought him one for Christmas.
I tried one of the 18 volt drills.....Garbage.....I also have a Ryobi ONE PLUS batch of tools...and some Rigid 18 volt stuff
Bought a huge bag of Ryobi one plus tools at a garage sale CHEAP...... Did not even look like they had been used.
I think I have accumulated 3 of the little small circular saws....
Got at least 5 or six chargers for the LI batteries.
The 18 volt 1/2" impact wrenches are so so.....Good for driving lag bolts and some stuff.
I used mine a lot on the cat....Easy to run down bolts and such....
Can't beat air tools.
I have a 1/2" HF air impact that just won't die....Secret....Keep oil in them...
I used my 3/8 right angle air wrench on the rear diffy job on the van this weekend.....
Harbor Freight....A toy store for grown ups.
The Blazer was made legal so it can be driven on the street. The woman at the DMV couldn't understand, at first, why it hadn't been licensed since 2009... ;)
I also got the brakes sorted out, so it's safe - for now. Then I took it out on the highway for a real test... I found that the Turbomaster is set to produce a max of 12-psi of boost pressure, and it'll stay there for as long as you're into the acc pedal. No codes popped up, so the programming must be OK with it. That may have been part of the problem with melted pistons... the GM-4 turbocharger really needs an intercooler when pushed to 12-psi (the GM-series of turbos are not that efficient past about 7-psi - the boosted air gets hotter), and combined with more fueling than stock. Runs great though. All of the gauges work correctly and there are no warning lights on the dash.
Turned out, the brake fluid reservoir was just low. After getting the Blazer operational, Sarah and I replaced the front brake pads due to them being worn to the point of needing replacement. We removed the rear drums, but didn't replace the shoes. I estimated the rear shoes being at 1/2 life.
Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet.
Good to hear.....
I think I would back the TM off a bit and get it down to about 8 psi.
That should keep the kid from having any issues.....
Well, with most of the mechanical issues dealt with, it was time to drive it! Here, daughter is behind the wheel on one of our secondary roads, though she had it up to 75 on a 4-lane highway near here. The 6.5 does a great job!
https://www.thedieselpageforums.com/...3&d=1638588347
We even took the Blazer out for a drive later that night, to do a little night driving. All of the lights work. ;)
Absolutely Marvelous
So happy to see the rig back doing what it was meant to do.
I am certain that your daughter is tickled pink too....Especially after having her hands in the job.....
Good work by you and your daughter. Almost typed her name, but perhaps she likes a low profile.
Gauge pods on the A-pillar is a nice touch.
Sarah, my daughter is here for a few days... Christmas and all. She got a few gifts for her Blazer... I'll be showing you all some of them soon, because I like them and had planned on getting them for myself... ;) Husky Liner floor mats are one such item. I'd looked for these quite some time ago, but couldn't find them, even their web site didn't list them. But, I finally found a retailer that had their mats for the GMT-400 trucks, which are designed just like those I've had for my 2001 GMC for nearly 20 years. I love them. They trap water (and slushy snow soaked with road de-icer) before it can run onto the carpet. I also got her a set of mud flaps from Husky Liner as well. These are molded to fit the contour of the GMT-400 front fender flairs. They look great, better than the flat slabs I've used before... I'll show these items in an upcoming piece. And I got her some repair/replace items and a couple other parts. Who'd a guessed a girl would be fun to shop for? (Actually, she's always gotten guy type gifts from me in past years.) She's happy!
Merry Christmas All...
Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet....Just does not get much better than this....
Was a beautiful day today... for the last week in January, so I thought I'd take daughter's Blazer out for a little run.
https://www.thedieselpageforums.com/...3&d=1643152180
It hadn't been started for well over a month, but it fired right up. Daughter hasn't taken it home yet because there are some upgrades we need to complete... Steps... Mudflaps... and the planned bed-liner application on the rockers, grille, fender flares, mirrors, etc. plus drive it enough around here to make sure its reliable. I'd also like to replace some of the steering/suspension parts to tighten up the handling. All this is more of a spring project... hopefully.
Over Christmas, we installed new Husky Liner floor mats (front and rear) and new rear hatch struts.
Looking good, Jim!!
Can't wait to get mine back on the road. I currently have the transmission out, getting ready to swap in a new torque converter (again). Third time's a charm, right?
Casey
Looks Good Jim
I always wanted a 2 door Blazer/Tahoe...but could never find a diesel.....at least not in acceptable condition....They were either total roaches or waaaaaaaaaaaaaay too $$$$$$$$$$$$.
Casey......Check the new converter and make real sure it runs true before you stuff it in....
Any suggestions on how to do that?Quote:
Originally Posted by Robyn
Casey
If you can get access to a lathe that can swing the converter (A 3 jaw chuck)
Insert the hub (Part that goes into the trans) into the chuck and gently snug the jaws.
Rotate the converter and check the pilot for runout (.001-.004 max) (Pilot goes into the crank shaft)
Also check for runout at the pads where the converter bolts to the flex plate.
Generally the pilot does not wear or get replaced....so a look see at the pilot for runout should do fine.
The hub can get worn badly, hence the reason they get replaced.....
Having been through this same debacle a few times.....I will never replace a converter without checking them for runout....
Thanks for the info! Unfortunately, I don't know anybody with that kind of equipment. I've already started filling the new converter with fluid. I guess I'll cross my fingers and toss her in and hope for the best!
Casey
I haven't seen a 2-door diesel Blazer/Tahoe on the highway in years. They have always been rare - now even more so because of the time involved. Twist of fate, maybe... but, the engine failure may have actually extended this one's life. If the engine hadn't failed, I doubt I would have gotten it back. Plus, sitting for about 12 years - mostly in a garage, extended its life too. There's no body rust, and it had been taken care of pretty well by its previous owner, as evidenced by the sometimes excessive accumulation of grease around every grease fitting. The sticker on the windshield showed just a few miles had passed since it had been serviced. It's a peach.Quote:
Originally Posted by Robyn
At 187K miles, there's a little play in the steering wheel, so it'll likely get new tie rods, idler and Pittman arm this spring. I'll be doing this for Lil Red too, so it'll be a party... :p
Still fussing over good looking steps... Can't find any we like that are made for the GMT-400 trucks, including ones like those I put on our 6.5TD Project truck back in 1999 - which I really liked. I did find a new design that looks tough, but they don't make them for the older rigs...
https://www.carid.com/raptor-series/...specifications
I'll have to modify them to get them mounted... but... I did get a welder for Christmas... :)
I've been watching the board for the return of your Tahoe. You know, other than paying attention to the stall speed of the TC, I've not worried about them. Keep us posted on progress.Quote:
Originally Posted by arveetek