6.2 Banks Sidewinder Turbo Build

I have used this method of finger painting many times! It is a very thin layer of RTV and has proven time and time and again that it works! I never had any leaks... Ever.
This method really helps fill in the imperfections and pitting. Some may disapprove but IDC.

When putting on the pump I put Optimum black on these 2 bolt holes to prevent leaks from the threads.

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And Optimum Black on these two 13mm bolts under the water pump.

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Torquing the top 13mm bolts to 21 foot pounds and 31 foot pounds on the rest.
She is on!

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While mocking up the dual thermostat crossover I noticed a few things. If I turn the inlet passenger side, it will be in the way of the throttle position sensor. Turning driver side, even with a custom bracket made, I’ll lose the high idle solenoid. Honestly, I don’t want to lose those. I live in a cold State and really really don’t want to lose the high idle solenoid.

Also apon more research, it seems the 6.5 single thermostat crossover is the way to go because of coolant pressures and because the thermostat restricts the bypass so the custom made restricter will not be needed.

Sorry guys... I know some of you were wanting to see this upgrade but it’s just not going to work for me. :-(


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So I took off the 1995 6.5 Single Thermostat crossover from the other spare motors and removed the old gasket with a razor blade, wire wheel and brake cleaner. Also cleaned up the threads on the bypass fitting.

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Then added a thin layer of RTV on both the cross over and block.

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With the 6.5 cross over on with the new bypass hose, I also installed the oil filler. A flaw with the design, they always leak from the rubber seal. To solve that problem, I add Ultra Blue in the valley of the seal and a thin layer around the fitting on the oil filler.

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Sxxt
sorry i said i was going to send pic's of my crossover mod

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Yukon6.2

Sxxt
sorry i said i was going to send pic's of my crossover mod

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Would love to see what set up you did.Either way I go I’m damned if I do or damned if I don’t with the coolant cross over. When I do my 4L80e swap I will not need that vacuum throttle position sensor so I may just be able to still do the dual thermostat cross over in the future.

Spent a few minutes today on the motor. I got the fluidamper back on

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I made sure the aluminum crank pulley aligned up with the water pump pulley before installing the crank bolt.

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I went to the loco auto parts store and could not find the 4 bolts needed for the crank pulley so I drove to Ace and got some.

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Crank pulley bolt installed...

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Not much clearance but it works and the pulley lines right up!

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Pulley installed... I put thread lock on the ends of the bolts. Torqued to 40 foot pounds.

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I then mocked up the 1995 driver side tensioner, bracket and alternator.

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This thread has upgraded from Awesome to TOTALLY SPECTACULAR! All you 6.5 and 6.2 gurus are gonna love this!! Stay tuned!

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I am not going to bore you guys and gals with all my failed attempts to make this dual alternator serpentine belt system work without a/c and without the vacuum pump.

So to get started here’s what I did...

I used the 6.5 1996 Tensioner with bracket and alternator and put it on the passenger side of my 6.2.

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Next I installed the OEM J code driver side alternator and bracket and removed the V-Belt Pulley...

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Then I removed the pulley from a 1995 6.5 Alternator and installed that pulley backwards on the J Code alternator with the J code Alternator fan.

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I checked alignment and see that a washer is needed between j code alternator and bracket.

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And here is the final result! Everything aligns 100% perfect!

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I have never read this method being done before. The only downside I see is that I will have to do some minor rewiring of the passenger side to match the 6.5 alternator. But here it is! It beats spending $200 for an incomplete bracket.

See link:

https://www.amer-grp.com/content/gm-...ternator-plate


This new method that I created will solve a lot of people’s problems! 6.2 and 6.5 alike!

Your welcome! And happy Halloween!

I mocked up the 6.5 powering steering pump and it does not fit without the 6.5 bracket.

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I installed the hard injection lines.

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I installed the return to fuel lines, lift pump hard line and bent them according to the Banks instructions.

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Knowing the 6.5 powering steering does not fit. I knew it would not fit without the 6.5 bracket. It was just a mock up to show you all.

Anyhow, I installed the 6.2 powering steering pump from ORD (Off-road Design) and did a series of test fits with the different pulleys from the 6.5 parts. 6.5 Pulley part number #15589752 fit the best and aligned well with the rest of the serpentine pulleys.

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I bought a new alternator for the passenger side. I tried 3 higher amp alternators but they were too big and hit the banks turbo casing. Ended up doing the 105 amp as it’s the best fit.

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After running back and forth from the auto parts store about 6 times... I finally found the best fit Gates Serp Belt to fit my Newley created serpentine set up. Gates Belt #K060942-94 3/4” long.

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I was able to make adjustments with the belts tightness by moving the 6.2 powering steering pump and 6.2 J code Alternator.

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Here are a plethora of pictures with the belt on. You can see there is plenty of clearance between the Water Pump pulley and lower tensioner pulley. Also the 6.2 oil fill vent for the CDR hose comes close to hitting the tensioner pulley but there is just enough room.

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More pics continued...

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Did you get the pic's of the tstat mod?

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Originally Posted by Yukon6.2

Did you get the pic's of the tstat mod?

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They did not show up in the email. Can you post them here in this thread?

After getting the kids ready for school, I took a nice long nap! Lol!

When I woke up, I cleaned the Garage and then installed the old used injector fuel return lines after cutting the ends to make them fit snug. They were special ordered years ago because they are heat resistant with fiber bradding on the outside.

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Then I put 3 coats of copper spray on the down pipe flange and installed the down pipe according to banks instructions.

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Next I ordered from Banks some missing parts from the kit.

Banks parts

Washers 91019
Exhaust stud 91504
Cross over gasket 93155
Rubber washers 91209
Air filter 41501
Water pump hose heat shield 26050
Downpipe gasket 93001
2 caps 92028
2 clamps 92878
Pyrometer Gauge kit
Boost Gauge kit

Then I temporarily installed a 6.5 oil cooler with lines and driver side exhaust crossover. (Waiting on parts for the Passenger side)

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I found a fitting in the spare parts to block off the water crossover hole for the heater core hose.

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I cleaned up the turbos top oil filler fittings and put optimum black on the threads and installed.

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I removed the 6.5 water temperature sensor and went to Ace to get a fitting for the Phantom 2 Autometer gauge water temperature sensor. Installed.

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Waiting on more parts to arrive. The goal is to get the motor mostly dressed and ready to do some testing and start it up on the motor stand. The most important test is going to be the coolant pressure test. Then a compression test.

Finally another temperature test with a laser thermometer gun to see if the rear of the block actually gets hotter then the front. I imagine the rear of the block would get a little hotter then the front because of the design of the cooling system. This last test will bust any myths. I would say if there is a 10 degree difference, there should be another upgrade in the future...

I PM'ed them to you .
I didn't want to mess up your thread with pic's that weren't of your choosing.

Looking great ......:D