Duramax Head Gasket Replacement

That little hose section behind the fan pulley is the turbo coolant supply. I've replaced mine twice, as well as a bunch of others. Not too complicated or difficult (replaced one in an RV park in less than an hour, once). I prefer the OEM spring clamps, as well, but used screw clamps the last time I replaced the line. I double-clamped it (4 clamps, 2 at each end), and it hasn't leaked since. I reused the OEM spring clamps the first time, and it began weeping rather quickly. As far as I know, mine wasn't/isn't pressurizing the coolant system, such as with a head gasket leak. GM/Duramax surely could have located the soft connection in a better place.

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Originally Posted by DmaxMaverick

That little hose section behind the fan pulley is the turbo coolant supply. I've replaced mine twice, as well as a bunch of others. Not too complicated or difficult (replaced one in an RV park in less than an hour, once). I prefer the OEM spring clamps, as well, but used screw clamps the last time I replaced the line. I double-clamped it (4 clamps, 2 at each end), and it hasn't leaked since. I reused the OEM spring clamps the first time, and it began weeping rather quickly. As far as I know, mine wasn't/isn't pressurizing the coolant system, such as with a head gasket leak. GM/Duramax surely could have located the soft connection in a better place.

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Thanks... Second the notion that GM could have located that hose somewhere with a little better access...

I may try a double screw clamp. The end with the best access is the one oozing.

By the way... And for everyone else, that hose is a 10mm internal dimension coolant hose. It looks like it may be 3/8", but 3/8" is a little small. The hose can be saved by squirting a little coolant on the pipe it is attached to and once the clamps have been loosened, work/move the hose all the way to the left (as you're facing the front of the engine). That should get you enough latitude to remove the coolant pipe that carries coolant to the turbocharger, or replace the hose/clamps if need be.

It's now been a little over 2 years, and the truck has accumulated nearly 13,000 miles since my daughter and I replaced the head gaskets, injectors and injector fuel lines, and resealed the injector cups, resurfaced the head decks and set the valve lash in my 2001 GMC's Duramax 6600. The truck continues to run great, and there has not been a single issue with the head gaskets or any other aspect of the tear-down and re-assembly (other than a minor fuel and coolant leak after the initial startup the first day after the service - that were easily taken care of). None of the head gasket service videos that I've seen online talk about how successful their repairs were over time. A rather important point, considering the "dubious" repair procedures shown in the videos... So, other than to share a little of Montana with you, that's the reason for this update - to talk about the success of the head gasket replacement project that was completed in June of 2021 - done the right way. ;)

https://www.thedieselpageforums.com/...9&d=1692026290

Nearly a hundred miles from home, this pic was snapped on Thursday, August 10th looking north from an overlook situated above the southern end of the beautiful Flathead Lake here in western Montana. Just over the hill and to the left a couple of miles is the small town of Polson, Montana. However, our destination that day was to the right in this photo, on the eastern shore of the lake, to a public facility called Finley Point State Park. We had rented a cabin there for a few days. This trip was possible because the new head gaskets have made the truck a reliable member of the family again.

Flathead lake is among the largest freshwater lakes in the country, being 28 miles long, up to 15 miles wide, and 370 feet deep at its deepest point. The scenic value of this natural wonder is awe inspiring, especially when set against the glacially carved and rugged Mission Mountain Range just off camera to the right. This mountain range reminds me of the glacially carved topography found in Yosemite. Flathead Lake is the result of a very large glacier that had scooped out the lake bottom during the last ice age. This elevated overlook where the truck is sitting is a "terminal moraine" that had been bulldozed into place by that glacier, and which also defines the southern boundary of the Continental Ice Sheet that once covered all of Canada and a northern fraction of what would become the US's lower 48.

We were here, partly, to kayak and to try our hands at fishing. Flathead Lake contains Lake Trout up to 40", good sized Lake Whitefish, Kokanee salmon and several other species (bass, perch, etc). My experience with fishing the lake was pretty limited, but the Zimmerman bait/tackle shop in Ronan, MT set us up with a selection of the right gear, and showed us a chart with water depths describing where each species would be located. This time of year, the bigger fish are all in deeper water, so my daughter and I jigged for Whitefish using artificial lures in about 100-150 feet of water - offshore from Blue Bay. I caught one and had several others on the line. The Whitefish we battled were about 2+ lbs and about 24" in length. Though the limit was a hard-to-imagine 100 per day, we were just catch-release fishing. We found the Whitefish to be hard fighters when using light tackle, and when in a kayak!

We had beautiful weather this trip, and the many cherry orchards around the lake had produced a bountiful crop - there were many open fruit stands all along the roadways. The large Bing cherries were delicious! My daughter even fed a few cherries to a Whitetail doe and fawn just a few feet off the front porch of our rented cabin.

See my signature below for a link to a page that describes our printed and bound Duramax Diesel Service Guide book, which includes a number of service procedures for the Duramax 6600 - including a head gasket replacement project. Do it once, do it right. :)

Jim Bigley

PS - The name "Flathead" came about because of a native tribe that once inhabited this area. Their custom was to bind boards against the heads of younger members of their group, thus modifying their skull shape over time. This was similar to what was practiced by a few native tribes found in both North and South America.

Today, the southern half of Flathead Lake and continuing south for another 50 miles is all within the boundary of the beautiful Flathead Indian Reservation. There is much to see and do within the Reservation, and I encourage those visiting this area to take advantage of the opportunity. Fishing on the reservation requires a reservation permit - available at any license counter here in western Montana or online.

I've known and even worked with a few natives from this area - going back to when I was a teen, and up through the 1990's when I assisted their tribal college to complete the setup and repair of some science tech I was trained for at the University of Montana. We met and talked with a handful of natives during this August 2023 visit. They're still the real deal... This area is a bright spot among Indian reservations. It's beautiful here. You'll be blessed for having visited.

Thanks for sharing, Jim! You definitely live in a beautiful part of the country. I've never been able to visit Montana, but it's on my to-do list.

Casey

I've mentioned here before that Youtube can be a fun place to hang out or learn something you didn't know. However, when it comes to working on your Duramax 6600, a little common sense can go a long way. Back in 2021, I did a search on YT about Duramax 6600 head gasket replacements... I found the most popular video in the list of those I watched to be one where the mechanic was using a horrible technique to prepare the block deck for new gaskets... Here's a screen grab. Yikes!

https://www.thedieselpageforums.com/...1&d=1698432471

The above image would be appropriate if he was grinding off a half inch of body filler - but this is not appropriate prep for new head gaskets. To compound the problem, there is absolutely no attempt to prevent carborundum grinding grit and debris from falling into the lifter galley, onto the piston crowns or into the cooling passages. This is NOT how GM specifies the heads and block decks are to be prepared...

The next image shows what IS recommended by GM - to help prepare the Duramax 6600 head and block deck surfaces.

https://www.thedieselpageforums.com/...2&d=1698433033

This is a 3"x4" steel block that was machined flat on a milling machine. GM recommends using a light oil (I used WD-40) with 600-grit wet/dry paper on the pictured steel block to prepare the cast iron block and aluminum head deck surfaces. I also stuffed the lifter galleys and piston crowns with clean shop rags, and any accumulating oily sludge was prevented from entering the cooling passages. Our Service Guide linked-to below shows how this is done.

The Duramax 6600 head gaskets require a certain smoothness for both the block and head deck surfaces. The design of the head gaskets require this smoothness, and the differing temperature coefficient of expansion between the aluminum heads and cast-iron block demands it. 600-grit provides that smoothness, when used with an absolutely flat steel block.

I had a local fabricator make this block for me, but you could create your own by using a 4" length of 3" steel angle iron. Then make it flat by using a series of coarse/fine grit wet/dry sand paper sheets on glass or a flat counter top. Round the edges before completing the job - so they can't dig into the aluminum heads.

The job of preparing the heads and block isn't that difficult and it goes pretty fast. Jim

I have found if i watch 5 or 6 YT Videos i can find something in one and something else in another. They all seem to leave out a little something that was critical or that made things easier.
But for the price you cant beat it

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Originally Posted by a5150nut

I have found if i watch 5 or 6 YT Videos i can find something in one and something else in another. They all seem to leave out a little something that was critical or that made things easier.
But for the price you cant beat it

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You're right. Though, discernment comes with experience. The video mentioned above was about an hour long - for a project that takes 40+ hours to complete (GM labor rate), so there's a lot left out - a lot of questions unanswered. And, certainly most of the hard parts of the job are left out - the same hard part(s) are left out in each video (I have a theory for why that's so). I watched several other videos for this topic, but found none gave the complete story - a proper story. The video channels all produced content that relied on the viewer to already have a good understanding of auto mechanics in general and Duramax head gasket replacement in particular - when in reality very few actual truck owners have that level of knowledge. These engines and fuel injection systems are complicated - risk of failure is significant, and the video creators never give the viewer a long-term follow-up. What's the price of failure or chronic nagging complications? This is why The Diesel Page has produced Guides that help owners do their own service work, and succeed in that effort.

I know a local Duramax owner who abused his stock Duramax till coolant leaked/poured out in several places (i.e. head gaskets, water pump seal, coolant surge tank overflow, etc). He then hired a local shop to build him an "indestructible" 1000-hp monster - forged pistons, aftermarket rods, big injectors, dual CP3 pumps, twin turbos, etc. It only lasted a couple of months, after the truck owner spent $20K on it. Knowing the story, I blame the shop for the eventual outcome and not properly managing the owner's expectations... An idiot behind the wheel can ruin just about anything. In the end, success sometimes boils down to experience...

I watched a Duramax engine-related video short last evening that was created by a white haired guy in a professional looking shop. The video focused on a Duramax 6600 engine sitting out of the truck with its heads removed. In that video, the white haired guy pointed to the top of a Duramax piston that had been partially melted by what he described as an injector failure. He said this extreme heat had damaged the piston crown and caused the piston to swell in the cylinder, resulting in both piston damage and cylinder damage.

Individual common-rail injectors can fail in ways that cause it to become a fierce blowtorch - a piston melting blowtorch. But, in my opinion, an injector failure wasn't the root of the problem in that video short. What he didn't point out was that other pistons also showed evidence of extreme scorching, produced by excessive fueling, which resulted in EGT temperatures well in excess of 1300 degrees F (maybe even 1500 degrees F). This scorching always produces a distinct and pronounced star pattern on the piston crowns - the melted piston in the video had that scorched star pattern on it. Think about what a Saturn 5 launch pad must have looked like after a moon shot.

My opinion, based on the images, was that the truck owner installed high-flow injectors and ran with a big program that put a lot of fuel into the engine. He then raced or pulled with it, which produced a combustion temperature that the piston(s) couldn't cope with.

The point... I believe the video producer didn't correctly diagnose or describe the problem... I found it curious that the shop owner didn't take the time to show the viewers what the other pistons looked like, and how he characterized their appearance. The video only showed an adjoining cylinder very briefly and incidentally - curious... Truck owners (and video viewers) need to know the whole story of what happened, to help them avoid a problem like that shown in the video. This must have been at least a $10,000 repair.

By way of comparison, here's what a normal Duramax piston crown looks like in a stock daily driver with 140,000 miles on it. There's only the faintest of star pattern on the outer rim, with no star pattern on the bowl.

https://www.thedieselpageforums.com/...1&d=1698862480

In closing, a common-rail injector that fails in a way that allows it to spray unregulated amounts of fuel will likely set a cylinder balance code, will smoke at idle (and above), will run rough and excessive blow-by will huff white smoke out the oil fill pipe with the cap removed - if the engine is run long enough to damage a piston/cyl. I'm not sure how this would affect fuel rail pressures at idle, but I suspect there also may be low rail pressure codes. In other words, a Duramax owner should have ample warning that a serious problem exists - possibly even before damage has been done. An exception to this might be when a Duramax is being used to tow heavy while out on the highway, and the driver simply can't pull over/stop immediately due to safety concerns - he has to keep going. In this situation, it becomes a choice between dollars and sense.

Maybe someone who has experienced this sort of problem with their truck can help fill in the blanks on symptoms. Jim

https://youtube.com/shorts/pySyCI1lR...HunvXKqYnAoKzp

I know that the debate regarding whether to choose head studs or head bolts for a Duramax 6600 will likely never be completely resolved, but here's another voice that addresses the question... ;)

I like Gale Banks. I've met him personally a couple of times, had dinner with him, and we've talked on the phone/email. But... Now, to be fair, the image he uses in this video of block deck bolt thread failure is NOT of a Duramax 6600. I don't know what engine is represented by that pic. You can see in the image in a previous post (of mine) what the block deck actually looks like in a Duramax 6600. The bolt holes are much different, and far less likely to fail like that shown in the Banks video.

Still... I believe Banks would be running studs and selling his own stud kits if he thought studs were either necessary or even just a better choice. Studs are a fairly expensive option. Gale is a businessman...

I agree.
But Gale Banks has not been known for peddling "Goody yum yum" parts simply to make $$$$
Gale has always worked to deliver fixes to real problems......

I have never met Gale buy have used some of his parts....Always top shelf stuff

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Originally Posted by Robyn

I agree.
But Gale Banks has not been known for peddling "Goody yum yum" parts simply to make $$$$
Gale has always worked to deliver fixes to real problems......

I have never met Gale buy have used some of his parts....Always top shelf stuff

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I believe that if Banks thought (or could show that) head studs provided a justifiable benefit, he'd be selling his own - "he is a businessman" after all.

Still... I wish Banks hadn't used a non-Duramax 6600 block deck pic to try to make a point about weak threaded holes in a block deck. That pic wasn't necessary. In my opinion, Banks' opinion/in-house testing is enough to make the point. I trust him.

Studs, however, do have one real advantage over TTY head bolts... Studs are reusable. But... you can buy 3 sets of TTY bolts for the cost of one set of ARP-2000 head studs. This reusable advantage might be important for racers who are inside their engines on a regular basis, but not so much for a grocery getter, commuter, or RV/boat hauler.

As discussed in our Duramax Service Guide, the fire-ring on these head gaskets tend to Brinell (create an impression in the aluminum head decks) over time due to the clamping load of the head fasteners. Both the factory TTY bolts and the ARP studs are torqued to the very same level - 125 ft/lbs. I measured the final torque of the TTY head bolts using a torque wrench during the final TTY angle sweep during installation. And, I installed a set of ARP head studs during another of the Duramax head gasket projects I did a couple of years ago. So... studs aren't being used to add more clamping load, because that would create a deeper fire-ring impression into the aluminum head decks.

Next month will be three years and nearly 16,000 miles since replacing the head gaskets on my 2001 GMC Duramax 6600.

Here's an update...

There has been no coolant loss or abnormal cooling system pressure. The truck has now experienced three winters since the head gasket project - with winter 22/23 seeing as low as -30 degrees F. Once solving the 10mm coolant hose leak a while back, there have been no engine-related issues. Over the past 3 years, the truck was driven on a few longer trips of a 200-300 miles each, some during the winter and some during the summer.

The truck has set a P0700 code (generic all-encompassing Allison trans code) now and then during this time, and even going back to a year or two before the head gasket work. It comes and goes... The transmission has been serviced twice - replacing the fluid and both filters. The most recent trans service was summer 2021. The root problem with the trans code may be related to a contact issue for one of the pins at the transmission's electrical connector. This has been reported by others on the Internet. The code setting hasn't produced a change in how the engine/trans runs or performs. I'll try to get the problem totally resolved this summer. In the meantime... it's a backburner issue. If anyone can add to this P0700 diagnosis, pls let me know.

P0700 is only the TCM requesting the PCM to illuminate the SES lamp, which drops the P0700 in the PCM shell DTC. It is not a error or failure, in itself. If the SES lamp is on, and you have a P0700, you need a scanner/reader capable of reading TCM data to recover the causal trouble code(s). Common "code readers" don't do this. Also, the TCM does not clear the P0700. The PCM simply expires it, if there are no further pending TCM codes, after a specific number of warming or starting cycles, depending on the code class. Transient TCM codes tend to clear themselves very quickly, and can leave behind a P0700 ghost. If possible, check the DTC's before shutting down the session it occurred. Some of them clear at the next restart if the condition is not present, and some of them do not print in history. Speed and pressure codes (slippage) remain for several warming cycles, while most solenoid timing, voltage and temperature errors may not last through 2 restarts if they don't repeat. There is also a trigger for limp mode, but I haven't figured out that one yet. I recall seeing a chart of the code classes and reactions, but can't find one now. It may have been in my Alldata account, but I haven't renewed since they priced me out of their market.

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Originally Posted by DmaxMaverick

P0700 is only the TCM requesting the PCM to illuminate the SES lamp, which drops the P0700 in the PCM shell DTC. It is not a error or failure, in itself. If the SES lamp is on, and you have a P0700, you need a scanner/reader capable of reading TCM data to recover the causal trouble code(s). Common "code readers" don't do this. Also, the TCM does not clear the P0700. The PCM simply expires it, if there are no further pending TCM codes, after a specific number of warming or starting cycles, depending on the code class. Transient TCM codes tend to clear themselves very quickly, and can leave behind a P0700 ghost. If possible, check the DTC's before shutting down the session it occurred. Some of them clear at the next restart if the condition is not present, and some of them do not print in history. Speed and pressure codes (slippage) remain for several warming cycles, while most solenoid timing, voltage and temperature errors may not last through 2 restarts if they don't repeat. There is also a trigger for limp mode, but I haven't figured out that one yet. I recall seeing a chart of the code classes and reactions, but can't find one now. It may have been in my Alldata account, but I haven't renewed since they priced me out of their market.

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Thanks Greg. I had a local friend (and mechanics garage owner) attempt to pull the codes using his commercial Snap-On code reader. He couldn't get any detail beyond the P0700, just like my Predator reader/programmer.

Typically, the SES lamp is off for a few/several seconds after starting the engine, before it reappears. If using the Predator to reset the SES, the lamp will go out for a few/several seconds, before reappearing. I need to crawl under the truck and then wiggle the electrical connector to see if that has an effect. I do know that the SES remained off after the last full service, which I suspect may have been due more to incidental movement of the electrical connector than the service itself. The pan had been dropped during the service to R&R the internal pan filter. There was very little in the way of sludge or particles in the pan and the ATF looked pretty new.

Annotated Allison code list: https://www.thedieselpage.com/member...sondtclist.htm

That is curious. If I'm understanding, you are clearing DTC's while running(?) and it reappears in the same session before changing any conditions (such as driving, changing gear selection, restarting)? That is not a transient fault, and it should be, at least, leaving a trail of codes in history. If you aren't seeing limp mode, the P0700 is a soft code, and shouldn't be persistent as it is. Any code that repeats after clearing, in the same session, or a specific number of successive sessions, will print in history. A Snap-On code reader, if that's all it is, shouldn't be able to read TCM codes. They're intended for general ECM DTC's and emissions inspection readiness. I use a Zurich ZR15S, which is a full function bidirectional scanner. It easily reads TCM data and DTC's, as well as historic codes, pending codes (incomplete tests), and all the real time data any of the control modules are capable of showing. A bidirectional scanner may be required to command the TCM to dump it's codes and data, which is true for most other control modules (BCM, ABS, SRS, etc.). I got the scanner primarily to access EV functions and data. GM EV's have a few more control modules that most code readers and many scanners don't know about.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DmaxMaverick

That is curious. If I'm understanding, you are clearing DTC's while running(?) and it reappears in the same session before changing any conditions (such as driving, changing gear selection, restarting)? That is not a transient fault, and it should be, at least, leaving a trail of codes in history. If you aren't seeing limp mode, the P0700 is a soft code, and shouldn't be persistent as it is. Any code that repeats after clearing, in the same session, or a specific number of successive sessions, will print in history. A Snap-On code reader, if that's all it is, shouldn't be able to read TCM codes. They're intended for general ECM DTC's and emissions inspection readiness. I use a Zurich ZR15S, which is a full function bidirectional scanner. It easily reads TCM data and DTC's, as well as historic codes, pending codes (incomplete tests), and all the real time data any of the control modules are capable of showing. A bidirectional scanner may be required to command the TCM to dump it's codes and data, which is true for most other control modules (BCM, ABS, SRS, etc.). I got the scanner primarily to access EV functions and data. GM EV's have a few more control modules that most code readers and many scanners don't know about.

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I don't think the code clearing was done while the engine was running. But, the P0700 (and SES lamp) does return a few seconds after clearing and then re-starting. Of course, the code is read after shutting off the engine. I know I tested the "check/reset" with the engine running a while back, but I don't remember the details, as to whether I could clear it or not with the engine running.

If a reader/scanner is capable of clearing codes under any condition, it will clear codes engine running or not. Given the opportunity, I will almost always check/clear during the same run session, then try to repeat the conditions before a restart. Some diagnostics only run during a cold start (such as a glow cycle), and/or after a specific number of starts or warming cycles. A high class code in history, even if erroneous, can override clearing the code, and relight the SES. P0700 won't do this, so if it returns, the TCM is still seeing the condition that set it and requests the code and SES. If P0700 is that persistent, there must be an underlying code. You need a bidirectional scanner to clear codes from history, so they should be there. Anyone with a smog inspection in the near future should be careful of this. Clearing history will also reset ALL the smog diagnostics, and restart them from the beginning. It can take days or weeks to get them all to clear. Learned that the hard way.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20JXJx-luNQ

This video is an introduction to Duramax 6600 diesel service - This video is the first in a series that will eventually show how to do everything listed here, but first, let's talk about what tools, tips and procedures are necessary to complete a fuel injector replacement, cylinder head gasket replacement, water pump replacement and much more.

Can't wait for the video series to be complete? Would you rather have a complete printed Duramax Diesel Service Guide now?
See: https://www.thedieselpage.com/durama...rviceguide.htm

If you're interested in learning more about Duramax 6600 service and repair, then the introductory YouTube video shown here would be the best place to begin. We've helped thousands of Duramax owners with their own service work through the years. We can help you too.

Our YouTube channel is new, but its growth will help us to provide so much more - at no cost to you.

You can help! Please subscribe to our Youtube channel - run your mouse cursor over the little circle truck image in the upper left of the video shown here. Please Like and Subscribe, and post your comments on YouTube.

I recommend that you create a YouTube account. It's easy and free to register at YouTube.com, plus you'll be eligible for free stuff here in The Diesel Page very soon. By the end of July 2024 we'll begin offering all member-only online content here at TDP free of charge to those who are subscribed to our YouTube channel. Your YouTube account name will be linked to the free access list.

TDP's long-term goal is to produce more free content videos, some derived from some of the several books we offer. The first book to be transformed into a video will be the "Duramax Service Guide". This book is, in my opinion, the most valuable book we offer. We're very close to uploading the next Service Guide video. The next one will be about Duramax injector replacement and the video after that will be about head gasket replacement - using the same sort of format used here in this introductory video.

Subscribing to TDP's YouTube channel will ensure you don't miss any new videos. As always, your input, suggestions and advice are all important.

The cooling system in our project truck (Lil Red) was filled with the red/orange colored Dex-Cool coolant back in the spring of 2004. While a little was lost during the head gasket replacement in August of 2021, most of the original fill was saved and re-used. It still looked as fresh as new. Keeping the drained coolant clean is required if anyone wants to re-use it.

Our 2001 GMC Duramax had its head gaskets replaced in the June of 2021. The coolant looked great (like new) and most of it was kept clean and re-used. I could see a lot of the internal areas of the engine's cooling system with the heads off. The internal areas looked practically new. There was no visible indication of corrosion in any of the aluminum, cast-iron, steel or any other component wetted by Dex-Cool coolant.

We used Dex during the September 2021 rebuild completion and install of my daughter's 1994 6.5L Turbo Diesel Chevy Blazer engine. The radiator and heater core were flushed before hand, due to its having used the green coolant from new. The vehicle sat since 2009 till getting the engine running again after the rebuild. In the years since 2021 and getting the Blazer back on the road, there have been no coolant related problems (or problems otherwise).

Conclusion... Dex-Cool is a great!

Upcoming will be a new video showing the Duramax engines during the disassembly/re-assembly process of having their head gaskets replaced. You'll get to see inside both engines. The Youtube video should be available sometime near the end of this September. I'll announce it here when it goes live and you'll be notified by YouTube if you're subscribed to our channel. :) Jim

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QQ1D1FUk1zs

Duramax Diesel How-To video series! This video will show you how to correctly remove and replace the LB7 Duramax 6600 diesel fuel injectors. This video is part of a series of service videos (available now and upcoming), all designed to help you perform your own service work, save money and get a better result.

To learn more about the "Tools, Tips and Supplies" you'll need when working on your Duramax 6600, watch this video first:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20JXJx-luNQ

Can't wait for the video series to be complete? Would you rather have a complete printed Duramax Diesel Service Guide now?
See: https://www.thedieselpage.com/durama...rviceguide.htm

If you're interested in learning more about Duramax 6600 service and repair, this series will be a big help to you. The Diesel Page has helped thousands of Duramax owners with their own service work through the years. We can help you too.

Our YouTube channel is new, but its growth will help us to provide so much more.

You can help! Please subscribe to our Youtube channel - run your mouse cursor over the little circle truck image in the upper left of the video shown here. Please Like and Subscribe, and post your comments on YouTube or here.

Subscribing to TDP's YouTube channel will ensure you don't miss any new videos. As always, your input, suggestions and advice are all important.

Want to share this thread with others or help us get the word out about LB7 Duramax Head gasket and Fuel Injector Replacement? It's easy! Simply copy the following link and paste it into another forum post, email message or social media site:

www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?46717