Update: 4/9/2025 - LB7 Injector Cups
https://www.thedieselpageforums.com/...4&d=1744218470
Turns out, a proper LB7 injector cup removal/re-installation really isn't all that complicated. Shown above is the machined deck surface of an LB7 cylinder head illustrating the appearance of a properly installed injector cup(s). If you run your finger over the end of the cup, you'd just barely feel the end of the cup protruding above the deck surface. Only .004" was removed from the deck when this head was re-surfaced. While hard to see in this image, there was a barely visible ring of red Loc-Tite 272 around the end of the cup, indicating that the proper amount of sealant was uniformly applied and distributed as the cup was driven into the head. The Loc-Tite not only seals the cup once cured but also lubricates the end of the cup as it's inserted into the head. Can't install them without this sealant - they won't go in without the lubrication qualities of the sealant.
https://www.thedieselpageforums.com/...3&d=1744218470
From the top side, you can see the correct position of the cups after being inserted into the heads. The video link in a previous post will show you how to properly insert each cup. For the sake of more info, the 2 large O-rings that seal the top (big end) of the cups in the head are lubricated before being inserted. I've heard of many different recommendations for a lubricant... ranging from liquid dish soap to coolant to engine oil to chassis grease. Now, these O-rings seal engine lubricant from reaching the engine coolant (or vice-versa), so from a practical standpoint, there are multiple correct answers as to which might be best. I chose to use a light coating of clean chassis grease, applied to both the O-rings and the inside of the top-side hole in the heads. The small-end of each hole should remain spotlessly clean and dry before receiving the Loc-Tite 272 sealant. It's been 4-1/2 years and nearly 20,000 miles since these photos were taken, without a hint of a coolant or oil leak. The above video link will show more detail.
Jim
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www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?46717
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Trouble... LB7 Injector balance rates and trouble codes...
https://www.thedieselpageforums.com/...4&d=1747065410
I'd bet most Duramax owners (who have looked at fuel rates) have seen injector balance rates that were better than the above image. Ideally, we'd like the balance rates to be all nearer to zero - or at least below 1.0. The above image was taken in the summer of 2021 soon after completing the head gasket and injector replacement project in my 2001 GMC crew cab. As some of you may recall, I installed brand new SAC injectors. I have to say that I was a little disappointed to see four of the numbers as high as they are shown here (cyl 1, 2, 6 & 8 ??) with zero miles on the new parts.
I recognize that many factors can affect balance rates - such as engine mechanical parts and of course injector uniformity. Things like uniformity in cylinder compression and uniformity in valve clearances can affect injector balance rates, and these are just a couple of the factors I've considered. Then, there's always the possibility for contaminating critical parts during the reassembly. I'm pretty good at keeping things clean, and I am not afraid to use/begin with a power washer, brake cleaner, clean shop towels, powerful shop vac, and beginning important work with a clean shop. I trust my work more than anyone else's to keep things clean. But, the above image did haunt me. I always use fuel treatment - injector cleaner, lube, cetane, etc. I had hoped that with time and miles, the injectors would "settle in". They didn't...
Over the past few months, I've noticed a bit more roughness in the engine when cold. I know that the automatic fuel-rate balancing doesn't begin till the engine has reached at least 100 degrees (IIRC). The engine did smooth out some when it reached operating temp, when the programming began to balance the fuel-rates. But, it never got to what I would call smooth...
About 10 days or so ago I noticed the exhaust would produce a bluish/white exhaust color (quite pronounced) when lightly accelerating, even at operating temperature. It would slowly go away, and then the exhaust would look more or less normal (clean). But the exhaust color would come back if (for example) you stopped at a stoplight, then pulled away. I noticed that what symptoms I'm discussing here had somewhat deteriorated over this past year... Then, a few days ago I pulled out my Predator programmer and looked at the injector balance rates again...
https://www.thedieselpageforums.com/...5&d=1747065410
This is what I saw... The engine was at operating temp when these numbers were taken. They're awful. But if we can assume the "12.82" number is #7, it would be logical to assume that that high positive value is causing all of the others (except 2??) to go negative to compensate. If #7 was where it was when first installed, the numbers might be closer to where they had been originally.
Or, I could be thinking about this backwards... Maybe the 12+ for #7 is an attempt to compensate for an imbalance... I'll try to get the commanded fuel pulse width data as Greg mentioned in a PM to me.
https://www.thedieselpageforums.com/...6&d=1747065410
Before unplugging the Predator, I looked to see if any trouble codes were present. The truck wasn't showing a Service Engine Soon light, but... sure enough, it had a P0307 in memory "#7 Misfire Detected", which sets when the injector fuel rate for one or more injectors is/are outside tolerance.
As you may recall, I installed a set of SAC injectors instead of the OE VCO injectors... SAC type injectors are advertised to produce a longer life when compared to the original factory VCO type injectors. As of today, these injectors have just 18,000 miles on them. The engine's original factory-installed VCO injectors were replaced with 120,000 miles on them...
All this was made more apparent late last month when I pulled Lil Red out of storage for the first time this year. That engine runs incredibly smooth when cold and like butter when at op temp. As you may recall, I replaced the heads gaskets and resealed the injector cups in that engine a couple months after replacing the head gaskets in my 2001 GMC in 2021. I was careful with Lil Red's engine as well, to keep the fuel injection system clean and uncontaminated. Both trucks got a new Baldwin fuel filter during the process.
So, what do we have here? Were the SAC injectors a wrong choice? Or, is something else going on? :(
Jim
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw...023.m570.l1313
Repair possibilities:
1- Get a set of eBay nozzles/pintles along with the special tools, and see how it goes... LB7 nozzles/pintles are going for about $45 for each injector or $360/set of eight.
2- 8X Genuine BOSCH OEM Fuel Injector 0445120008 For 2001-2004 Duramax LB7 6.6L Brand New for $749
Last option... pay another $2400... :eek:
Update 5/29/2025 - Latest injector data...
https://www.thedieselpageforums.com/...2&d=1749658034
We went on a pretty tough towing excursion over the past couple of days. We rented a 20' enclosed car-hauler trailer. When loaded with household goods, I estimated it to weigh about 10K, which pulled like a parachute. For a rented trailer, everything worked... the lights, electric brakes and it even included two spare tires/wheels. The above photo shows the truck hitched to an empty trailer. When loaded for the return trip, both the truck and trailer were level - the beauty of a properly set up weight-distributing hitch.
https://www.thedieselpageforums.com/...3&d=1749672620
The rental company didn't have a weight-distributing hitch so we bought a new one from Harbor Freight. Turns out that new HF hitch was exactly like the one I owned in 2000 when we towed a 27' Fleetwood Mallard - first with our 6.5TD Power Project truck and then with the 2001 GMC Duramax shown in the first photo here. I like this hitch a lot. If anyone wants more info on this weight-distributing hitch or its setup, let me know. The above photo shows the hitch attached to our 6.5TD Power Project truck. The new hitch is just like it.
From the outset I was curious whether this tough towing excursion (included about 10 miles of 6% uphills at 1200+ degrees EGT and 200+ miles at 1000+ EGT on the Interstate at 70-mph) would change how the engine ran - i.e. would clean up the numbers a bit. A trip like this should address the question of whether or not carbon deposits on the injectors may be contributing to any of the problems seen here (i.e. cylinder balance and other symptoms).
The first two photos below were shot immediately after the last towing session - idling with the transmission in Park. The engine was running with completely stock GM programming with no power adders. Before the trip I thought about installing my tried and true Van-Aaken power module, which can smoothly add another 100 hp or more, but chose to keep the stock programming/power for better baseline discussion and troubleshooting. That power module actually decreases EGT while towing and makes towing in hilly country a lot more pleasant (less shift business).
https://www.thedieselpageforums.com/...6&d=1748541685
https://www.thedieselpageforums.com/...5&d=1748541685
The next two images represent the pulse width and balancing rates while the truck was idling in Drive - foot on the brake.
https://www.thedieselpageforums.com/...4&d=1748541685
https://www.thedieselpageforums.com/...3&d=1748541685
Conclusions... The numbers improved a little when compared to the images shown in an earlier post, and the sounds/response of the engine has changed a little. Still not smooth at idle - presents as a miss. And, abnormal injector rattle comes and goes at times while driving - depending on engine rpm and load. No codes - still not right. In the end, it got through this tow without blowing a gasket. Thankful for that. I was a bit concerned about driving it that far from home with this problem. No choice but to drive it. Seemed a little down on power, but delivered fuel economy about on par with what I remember.
If I'd had the trailer wiring/plug completed for Lil Red I would have been tempted to drive it. That might have been fun! Cool video!
Thinking I'll dig into the engine when I get a minute.........