Bye 300HP 6.5

Will have it pulled today.
Have a 1997 12V 5.9L Cummins uprated to 300HP all adapted to drop in.

The fun begins.

Wayne

[ 04-16-2004, 06:04 PM: Message edited by: DogDiesel ]

...another one bites the dust...

Just kidding! :D Good luck with your new project, and keep us updated on how it goes.

... the 6.5TDA is pulled.

Shopping to get bolts to attach the clutch to the new 5.9 GM flywheel. I'll set the 5.9L tomorrow. Other than clutch, it is ready to set.

My clutch kit is a LUK. They're right here in Charlotte, NC and I dropped by and got one - it was cheaper than the one I had behind the 6.5. Nice.

Had my (OEM Chrysler) Nippen Denso alternator "chipped" to become an internal regulated, complete with tachometer output. We put it on the tester, it rated 144 AMPS and 14.3V consistently. Neat. I have doodle diagrams to wire it up.

Once set tomorrow, I think the big challenge will be just plumbing the intercooler. Wait, let me set that big thang before I talk about intercooler. Wow, that thang is big. It dwarfs my 6.5, although the weights are similar.

Theoretically, it will fit. Tomorrow.

Have a 4" exhaust kit; hmmm- my 3.5" Banks PowerPack exhaust kit is up for sale. Have the K&N Cummins kit. So the 6.5 '93 K&N (complete with housing/plumbing), and intercooler kit will become available soon, as well a butt-load of other 6.5 uprate stuff.

I'm taking a few pictures.

More later.

Wayne

Keep us posted on the total cost of your conversion.

MP

This is something I have dreamed about for a long time........ Do you want to do another? For me.

I want to get in line behind Mark.

Tempting.
I'm using the Auto Crafts shop on Fort Bragg. While I have a cherry picker that will pick up the engines, I do not have a cement pad in the back yard to use. I considered buying a couple sheets of steel and using that, but after 25 years in the military, my death wish is on low priority.
If you can get on a military post, we can work something out.

Maybe I could lay a pad near my shop...

I think I enjoy fixing them more than driving em.

I'm on hold till Wednesday. The LUK clutch didn't feel right. I'm taking it back on Monday, and shop for another model. Gotta feel this thing out. I took the flywheel off, we'll get it right this time.

Cut the rivets on my drive shaft carrier cross member, and have everything ready to shift the transmission/transfer back 2" to allow for more room under the hood.

I bought my engine and mounts from a fellow named Robby at ADC engines in Salt Lake City. He gave me free shipping after he found I was calling from Iraq to make the deal. Seems like a real nice fellow. Vietnam Vet. The engine and set-up seems top notch. My unit has 58K.

Did I mention that the 5.9L just seems huge? yeah, I know, its like less than 50 lbs heavier than the 6.5, but geeze it looks huge. I think I am going to appreciate the extra room under the hood on each side.

Wayne

If there is a line forming I am in.
Pictures and some kit info.
Does the kit make it a bolt in swap?

DogDiesel,
Email me what you are thinking about your soon to be unwanted inter cooler.
a5150nut at hotmail dot com

You may want to consider getting a South Bend HD clutch. Upgrading the power on the Cummins is so addictive that you'll soon run out of clutch holding power if you don't do it right the first time.

I'm going to install their 13" Con OFE to hold the 400HP/800ft/lb+ I'll be making with my 1994 12V 5.9L.

The goodies so far:

191 Delivery Valves
4K GSK
60lb valve springs
300HP 5 hole automotive injectors
PDR HX35W turbo set to 36psi
2nd gen. DC intercooler
NV4500 hybrid Chevy with Dodge input shaft

Yeah,
We're constrained by choices on this clutch thing. NOT! I can change the input shaft on the NV4500 from GM 1 1/8" to Dodge 1 1/4". If not, I am limited to 12" clutch, which I will be satisfied and running the LUK gold series 12". If I change the input shaft, change the flywheel and go to 13' clutch plus put in the adapter to space the starter... that's way to too damn many expensive choices. My 12" stock clutch with a 300 HP 6.5 looked brand new at 44K use.

But I am really not bad on clutches. While I probably tow as much as any on this board, I get more than 100K per clutch, always.

Tech advice is often to tell others on tech forums to put in the expensive part, a sure fix to all problems. Sure,I use the truck. I tow. But will NEVER pull a sled, or compete in a trailer tow for free. No off-roading except on the farm. Won't and don't drag race, knows diesel is less competitive than gas. But I only drive Diesel. My lawnmower, that lowly yard implement uses gas....

I thought things thru and the 12" clutch will suit my need. Not a youth anymore.

Wayne

[ 04-20-2004, 07:35 AM: Message edited by: DogDiesel ]

Here's how simple it is to harvest RWHP from the CTD: Doubling HP

[img]smile.gif[/img]

I can see now why there are so few 5.9 Cummins conversions in a Chevy 4x4.

Analogy. Same as fitting a size 12 foot in a size 10 shoe.

Almost have the 5.9L set. The Bragg auto crafts shop did not have a tilt-able engine sling, and this caused havoc. A must on the job. My work-around was a chain hoist and second cherry picker and two chains. And patience.

First; to even get this engine to go in the engine cavity-without removing the entire front front radiator body support, you have to remove the harmonic balancer and speed sensor off the 5.9. Did that - move on.

With 4WD trucks: getting the 5.9L oil pan to slip in past the front diff requires loosen the diff and push it forward max. The oil pan will not slip past the diff without this. I had already pushed the transmission/transfer back 2". (Final set will have the tranny/transfer back 2" and drill new crossmember holes.) You have to remove the rear drive shaft in initial install. Once marrying to tranny input spline, you re-install drive shaft to lock the input.

I'm in, past the diff now, have the tranny input in clutch spline. Lacking only rotating engine to allow tranny align pins to seat. Sounds much easier than done. Everything fits and, but mass and gravity of the 5.9L in the size 10 shoe cavity takes any notion of "man-handle" out of the install equation. I stopped last night, because to rotate the engine, will require a bottle jack and bellhousing to tranny bolts just about 5mm longer for set. Of course the crafts shop did not have a bottle jack. Must rotate engine weighted to hoist chain which in effect pushes against chain. The adapter is aluminum, and OEM bolts might stripp. Err on caution and just buy longer bolts for the install.

So here I am, 1/2" to tranny seat, a mere rotation and few bolts away. Only the align studs prevent total seat. Spent 4 hours in that position last night. Should finish set tonight.

This job is like wrestling (no fake though). It looks easier when watching and theorizing than when doing. Don't try this at home without proper training and facilities. Somebody could get hurt.

Seriously. Wow. What a job!

When I have the 5.9L in motor mounts, and truck back in movable condition, I am trailering it home to plumb and fit and wire. I could go broke paying these bay fees.


Wayne
Owner of a 93 one-ton chevy 4x4-5 speed - with a yet-ran 300HP 5.9L Cummins diesel. That will change.

[ 04-22-2004, 05:56 AM: Message edited by: DogDiesel ]

Which way round is your oil pan sump? Is your truck lifted? I didn't have to loosen the axle or remove the balancer during the pilot install to drop in the 5.9L CTD.

I have the rear sump configuration, so it's about the same position as the 6.2L.

I'm not using the original 1994-1998 motor mounts, but instead have installed purpose built mounts from AutoWorld in MT (great shop with excellent aftercare assistance). These make full use of the height in my engine bay and keep everything clear.

[ 04-22-2004, 06:20 AM: Message edited by: britannic ]

Finally have the engine transmission mated.
My pan is stock pan, rear sump.
However, I am installing in IFS 4x4, not solid axle.

I have the engine sitting in the mounts. The mounts are not bolted. Better to slide.

I put the entire weight of the engine on the truck and the IFS sits at the same height as the 6.5. Didn't think there was but about 50 lbs difference in weight.

I only have to slide the entire engine/tranny/transfer back 1.5" now and set onto mount holes.

I was told I would not have to cut my drive shaft, but she don't want to slide any further back...

I will disconnect drive shaft - SLIDE- bolt mounts, and figure the shaft thing out. I may even have to trim the cab to allow the tranny shifter tower not to rub.

My goal is to finish today and trailer her home for plumbing.

BTW--there is so much more side room in the engine compartment. I can get to those frame mounted steering arms now easy. It was a killer to change them before.

Wayne

Owner of a yet ran 300 HP 5.9L cummins powered Chevy 1 ton 5 speed 4x4. That will change.

IFS is definitely more challenging :( .

Quote:

---

Originally posted by DogDiesel:
Finally have the engine transmission mated.
My pan is stock pan, rear sump.
However, I am installing in IFS 4x4, not solid axle.

I have the engine sitting in the mounts. The mounts are not bolted. Better to slide.

I put the entire weight of the engine on the truck and the IFS sits at the same height as the 6.5. Didn't think there was but about 50 lbs difference in weight.

I only have to slide the entire engine/tranny/transfer back 1.5" now and set onto mount holes.

I was told I would not have to cut my drive shaft, but she don't want to slide any further back...

I will disconnect drive shaft - SLIDE- bolt mounts, and figure the shaft thing out. I may even have to trim the cab to allow the tranny shifter tower not to rub.

My goal is to finish today and trailer her home for plumbing.

BTW--there is so much more side room in the engine compartment. I can get to those frame mounted steering arms now easy. It was a killer to change them before.

Wayne

Owner of a yet ran 300 HP 5.9L cummins powered Chevy 1 ton 5 speed 4x4. That will change.

---

The 5.9L Cummins is in. Out of the shop. Ready for plumbing work.
--Had to notch front bottom bolt area of AC pump.
--Also had to modify right motor mount, to raise R/S engine to accomodate AC. Without AC, mount would have been OK.
--Trimed the bottom of left motor mount, as well right to allow space for pan bolts.
--Also will have to shorten drive shaft. Need less than an inch. The shaft into the transfer has 1 1/8" sticking out, but will not go in further.

I'm tired. Came home, got in the jaccuzzi tub and soaked for well over an hour. What a job!

I can see why so few of these conversions are done.

Wayne
Owner of a installed -- yet ran 300 HP 5.9L cummins powered Chevy 1 ton 5 speed 4x4. That will change.

this is definetly on my "must read" list, wish i could help!
ive been expecting to do a 300 horse 6.5 when mine gives up, but the Cummins is sweet.
Time will tell.
rock on brother! :D

Anyone need one?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...gename=Merch06

Up to so far, I have been pleased with the conversion. But today, I found out something that makes me mad.
I must install a 2" body lift kit in the truck. One of the reasons I like my truck is its height. Could be worse, like 3"
I am going to have to leave the right motor mount raised 2" to allow the AC pump to fit. If I chose to forego AC, need to do nothing, but drop the right mount 2". AC is a must. So a 2" body lift kit will raise the front so the hood will close, and also allow space to drop the tranny, if a clutch is needed VS pull the entire powerpack.
I have so much engine under the hood, the hood will not close. ;)
2" is hardly noticeable. So off we go.
Wayne

Dogdiesel, great job on your project, I wish I had the time, patience and knowhow to tackle something that big. Anyway I am looking to do something on a smaller scale ie; intercooler. If you are ready to part with yours from the 6.5 I would love to buy it from you.
Steve
99gmccrew

Let's review where I sit before congratulating me too much.
--I have an engine mounted in the bay. Not ran. No chamnpagne yet.
--I have to shorten my drive shaft.
--I have to put in a 2" body lift to get the hood to close.
--I have to add 2" to the tranfer shift rod. EZ mod.
--I have to build a small bracket to hold one stud of the clutch cylinder that has no hole on the bell adapter (covered by tranny bell). EZ mod.
--I have to plumb the intercooler.
--More I am sure.
++I haven't quit the project, but I am going to wait a few weeks for all the cuts, skins etc to heal on my hands.
--I have to install a 4" Dodge exhaust kit.
--Maybe progress so far justifies a beer. Yes definitely. ;)
Wayne

Dog

Been following your upgrade with interest. Power on, man!

In regards to your clearance issue. Is the hood the only place lacking room? If so, would it be more practical (or cost effective) to mod the hood? The cowl induction hoods add a pretty good amount of space down the centerline.

Just a suggestion.

There are significant clearance issues on top and sides of the transmission. When I pushed it 2" back it jammed things. With the setup like I have it now, there would be no way to pull the transmission/transfer for a clutch issue without pulling the engine.

I lean toward the body lift vs cowl hood, because I am sure there will be vibration issues with something touching under the floor. Need to fix that.

My intent from this point is to tackle the conversion as follows.
--shorten and reconnect drive shaft.
--fix clutch bracket and lengthen 4wd shifter.
--drill holes for tranny/tranfer crossmembers--connect.
--hook everything up.
--Get her running without intercooler.
--move it, clean it to install body kit, intercooler etc.
--work buggs, small to large.

Wayne

Did you ever find a body lift kit to fit the GM diesels? I tried to find one for my 94 K2500 but all I could find was for a gasser. Was told a diesel one won't fit, maybe due to Turbo location. Know of any who has put a body lift kit on one?

JC.

SHE RUNS! [img]smile.gif[/img]
Yes, I used the body lift kit from Performance Accessories # 10012. The "gasser" problem is the radiator shroud. If that is not a problem, and you can make your own shroud work, then this is the kit.
My cab kit is installed. I have yet to install the bed, cause getting 'er running is more important than the bed. The 2" body lift will hardly be noticeable. I was all worked up about it, but it is no big deal. However, the hood closes, and there is room above the tranny. Just enough body lift for the cummins.
FAN is a issue. I have 2.5" between pully and radiator and a clutch is not an option. I ordered a Flexilite 418 (18") fan and 952 adapter and the truck will have constant fan. Worked with the Flexilite technician, and short of hydraulic system, this is the only option. Electric fans will work fine until you tow, then they cease to be a viable option.
I installed a WarpSpeed 4" exhaust (3.5 stock manifold coupler) and everything bolted up except the front pipe. Cut away the weld and re-set it, tacked it and brazed it up. Had to cut it near the bend to get it set straight, but merely inserted the filler pipe--cut to length--and it is done. Good tone, but not loud.

More to follow.
Wayne

Mudtrekker,

I have a 3" body lift in my 93. I didn't put it in. In fact, when the 94 is rolling again (hopefully very soon), I am going to dive into the 93 and the lift is one thing that will come out. Your more than welcome to have it if you'd like. I believe it's all bushings and nothing else. I did spy some spacers holding the fan shroud apart though.

Waldo

Hi Wayne, do you still have the 6.5 '93 K&N (complete with housing/plumbing), and intercooler kit available.

Yes, I have the filter & K&N.
I have the intercooler mounted TEMPORARILY on the cummins (cools just fine) and it handles 25-35 lbs of boost.

In a few months, I will convert to another intercooler.
The pipes are not modified. The exception is the turbo to intake tube which is flattened on one spot to accomodate the Peninsular Power Turbo.
Wayne