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This will probable sound a little lame but what is the difference between diesel types?
I own my first diesel (07 GMC 2500hd, CC, LB) and have become interested in understanding the different types.
#2 I know it's what I burn.
Bio-diesel I know is made from bio products. Beyond that, I don't know. I hear it's cheaper, but at what cost to modify my truck? Do enough stations sell it?
What is Flex-fuel?
From what I was told in school #2 is strait diesel #1 is a 50/50 mix of diesel and kerosene if I'm incorrect somebody jump in. I have only ran Bio half a dozen times or so first couple of times was in my dads 01 Dodge DRW ran great and the other truck was his 06 Dodge DRW it ran great also and didn't have any problems switching back to #2.
Up here in Alaska what we call #1 is typically straight Kerosene....Ultra Low sulfur of course. Now for heating our homes, we use Kero in the Medium sulfur category.Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel 4 blood
Hmmm... I never actually thought about that. They haven't converted all home heating oil to low sulfur?
Not in Alaska. They make sure to let you know the sulfur content is higher, so folks don't run it in trucks or equipment.
We don't put dye in it either up here. The dye sometimes freezes when temps get below -50.
I'm still lost on my original question.
What can I safely run in my mostly stock '07 LBZ?
As mentioned, #2 is "regular" diesel and #1 is a mix used in the winter to keep things from gelling.Quote:
Originally Posted by gimpyhauler
Bio-diesel that you'd buy at a "gas station" can be used without any modifications. It is typically a diesel/bio blend. However, above some percentage you'll want to change your hoses over to something like Viton since the straight bio-diesel is corrosive to rubber. If you search "viton" here you'll get some discussions on that.Quote:
Originally Posted by gimpyhauler
The other issue is not to confuse refined bio-diesel with WVO - waste vegetable oil. There are systems to burn WVO, but they typically involve a heater element of some sort because WVO will gel in even non-freezing weather.
Further, don't confuse WVO with WMO - waste motor oil. Again, there are systems for that, but you need to consider straining the contaminates out of it somehow.
Flex-fuel is a term for gasoline engines that will run up to 85% bio-fuel (gasoline, not diesel).Quote:
Originally Posted by gimpyhauler
Does that give you a better understanding?
If you buy your on-road "diesel" fuel from any commercial fuel station, it's OK to use in your Duramax. During the summer the fuel is "summer #2" and during the colder months up north, it's "winterized #2", which should be blended to resist clouding down to the lowest temperature expected for that region.Quote:
Originally Posted by gimpyhauler
GM approves of up to B5 bio-diesel (5% bio blended with 95% petroleum diesel) for the 2007. Some have run a higher concentration of bio, but since exhaust filter regeneration pushes raw fuel into the combustion chambers of all eight cylinders, there was some concern about washing the cyl walls and creating some amount of crankcase oil/fuel dilution. It appears bio can act more like a solvent than regular old petro diesel. Later Duramax engines (LML) use a 9th injector for active regenerations, which eliminates the cyl washing problem. As a result, GM approves of up to B20 for the newest Duramax engines.
Jim
trbankii,
That is what I needed to understand. Thank you a bunch.
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Morepower,
Also a big thanks for the help. I am better informed now.
So, if i change all fuel hoses to viton type,will bio diesel also run without damaging the stock fuel pump on a 6.2 and db2 injection pump? Was this bio diesel fuel only intended to be used in high pressure/electric activated fuel injectors like the dmax ? I've seen bio diesel selling for up to 0.45 cents a gallon cheaper than ulsd fuel in calif. On 80 dollars per tank fill up a little savings would help.
Thanks
OIL BURN