Sorry for the late response to your pictures of the 2 doors (at Rendezvous).
Looks like my butt in 2 of the photos! John and I were adjusting the timing.
Good Times!
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Sorry for the late response to your pictures of the 2 doors (at Rendezvous).
Looks like my butt in 2 of the photos! John and I were adjusting the timing.
Good Times!
https://www.thedieselpage.com/images...r/heads-sm.jpg
Got the heads back from the engine shop this morning. One of the heads needed a new exhaust valve. Valve job, bead blasted, crack checked, vacuum tested and pressure tested. I had supplied the shop with new Fel-Pro valve stem seals and O-rings. Total out the door cost was $368. :o The deck surfaces didn't need to be machined, but I will use my flat steel block to dress them like I did the Duramax heads/blocks.
Another engine shop quoted me a price gouging $1200 in 2017 to do the same work on these heads - this was on top of the $350 I had already paid for the used set of heads. Needless to say, they didn't get the work. So, another big snag has been resolved, and the project moves forward. Jim
Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeet
First, the bad and the ugly...
https://www.thedieselpage.com/images...rnt-Piston.jpg
The above is what put/kept the Blazer in the shop for the past decade... The result of towing heavy, pushing hard... and not paying attention... This Blazer has a boost/EGT gauge on the A-Pillar that I installed back about 2000 when I owned it the first time, but it wasn't enough to keep it safe... apparently. The Blazer was running a performance chip and a Turbomaster.
https://www.thedieselpage.com/images...Install-sm.jpg
This is what the engine looks like as of right now... :D Tuesday morning, September 14th. New buttons! Got the heads and valve trains parts all installed yesterday afternoon with daughter's help. Such a trooper, that girl. The Good! :o
Indeed.
Having a young lady that loves or even wants to be involved in this type of stuff is a rarity...
I have seen pistons that look like that one in the piccy before.
I opened up a 6.2 from a mid/late 80's 1 ton GMC
The guy was hauling a fairly large rubber tired back hoe around and pulling a lot of heavy grades.
He would mash the skinny pedal and let the little engine that could do it's thing....never back off, no slack, just flog the ponies until it laid down and died.....It had 3 pistons that looked like that one, all the main webs were cracked and the heads were nearly melted (Figurative)
Nothing was salvageable.....DOOR STOP....
Have a request.... Back this spring during the time I cleaned out the garage in preparation for the summer projects we've been discussing here I disposed of a number of parts that I thought had been removed from Lil Red (the gas engine parts, transfer case, driveshafts, etc). I tossed the front driveshaft... Turns out it was the Blazer's... :( It had a 1330 front u-joint and a flange at the rear, with a slip joint near the front. The whole affair was about 3' long or thereabouts. Anyone have one laying around or know where one might be? Thx
I believe the front drive shafts for the Tahoe/Yukon/Blazer/Suburban/K1500 PU were all the same part. If you look a Rock Auto the same part fits most every SUV/PU from that era. If true it would be easy to find one in a junk yard.
Jay
FYI - my 1995 2 door Tahoe front driveshaft has a u-joint on both ends; sounds like Jim's has a u-joint on one end and a flange on the other, so they are not the same. Might depend on which transfer case was used as well, since some models were equipped with electric shift options?
On edit - I looked it up, and it appears 1994 and older models use the u-joint/flange shaft that Jim describes, while 1995 and newer models use the double-ended u-joint version.
Casey
I have one from a 1995 1500. If you can use it, it's yours. I don't know what it would cost to ship it, but it's not so big or heavy to require freight.
Should be able to put that shaft in a cardboard tube and it will travel quite well.....
The front shaft I have is joints at both ends. No flange.
I have a flange.....
Easy to assemble
Should be a Saginaw 3R joint (Internal snap ring type)
This came off a 1994 2500 Burb....should be the same shaft...
If this will help....it's yours...Just PM me an address and I will get it on the stage for ya.....
Looking up U-joint part numbers....
For the 95, all the joints are the same. Front, rear, either end, all the same. Not so much for a 94 Suburban. There are a lot of options, to include, steel or aluminum shaft, and different diameter bearing cups. The shaft I have is 1.125" at both ends. It's an original AAM, complete with union sticker.
I'll take pic or two, measure the length, then post what I discover later this afternoon. I did crawl under it on Monday to see if it had a flange once I felt that sinking feeling about what I tossed...
You guys are the best!
PS ... sorry about the vote count... :(
https://www.thedieselpage.com/images...nt-yoke-sm.jpg
The above image shows the existing U-joint yoke on the front differential. Measurements are pretty close, but not exact.
https://www.thedieselpage.com/images...-flange-sm.jpg
The above image shows the existing driveshaft flange on the transfer case.
There is ~33-1/4" from the mounting surface of the flange to the bottom of the U-joint semicircle on the front diff U-joint yoke (= driveshaft length).
Thanks everyone!