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One piece at a time, if you have to.
After your finding with the temp gage, chase each of the others just the same, as well as the grounds. Also check the BCM connector, making sure it's clean and all the pins are engaging.
In the meanwhile, try the key fob reset/remove procedure. It may clear up some of the BCM issues, maybe all (optimistic).
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At this point I've run all the wires down and there are no other breaks or frays in the wiring. I'm waiting for the new BCM and will get it programmed and then I'll report back. Hopefully this will fix the last of the lingering issues.
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Update.
I’ve replaced the BCM and have installed. Fixed some of the issues.
Here’s what I’m left dealing with:
-Rear windows don’t roll down
-left turn signal only works about 70% of the time
-door locks don’t lock the doors. You can hear them moving, but hitting the lock button on the remote after they are locked unlocks them. It’s weird.
-only my drivers side front speaker works.
I’m beginning to think that this thing was either struck by lightning OR someone tried to jump start it with a semi and didn’t do it right, which caused a lot more electrical issues than I realized.
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You may be right, about the voltage spike. I've seen similar on one of my older vehicles. Tried a jump start with a welder (hey, it was handy), friend who was "helping" thought he would do me a favor when it wasn't quick enough, and flipped it to 28V. Fried every bulb that was on (light show), a bunch of fuses and switches, and half the glow plugs I was cycling at the time.
Anyhoo....
If you're still having issues with the door locks and windows, if you have good power, that leaves the RKE module (transceiver module), the driver door controls, or the driver door harness (may be more likely if the driver door speakers don't work, but they may have common issues of their own, and if it has the mirror signal indicator, it may be shorted/open, effecting the left signals in general).
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It’s really the only thing that make sense. Both front door modules have been replaced and they work fine.
It almost seems like it got an electrical spike that fried everything. Or I’m missing something.
The weird thing is the HVAC works perfect, and the rear defrost works perfect, as well as the power rear view mirror and all of the steering wheel controls.
I still have the weird issues of the easy exit seat moving all the way forward, and the driver side heated seat powers on for about 30 seconds and then the indicator lights shut off.
It’s perfectly driveable but the electrical gremlins make me want to take the first $3500 someone is willing to throw at me haha.