1993 6.5 wont start new injection pump

I have a 1993 6.5 diesel that is kicking my butt. Bought it with a blown motor and put a low mile motor in. Ran great for a few weeks. Then it started not starting in the morning. Once I got it started it ran fine. I noticed that the throttle shaft was leaking so I figured it was getting air in the system. Replaced the injection pump and for the life of me cant get it to start. New lift pump. Has fuel to the lift pump. Does not seem to be getting fuel to the injectors? Another bad injector pump? Any advice would be awesome!

Also took out fuel filter housing and ran a line from the lift pump to the injection pump and that didnt do anything either. Have power to the fuel solenoid.

Did you bleed the lines to the injectors?

Replacement injection pump...
Tell us about it.
Like was it from a reputable shop,Or a military pump?

I've tried bleeding them but doesnt seem to make a difference. It's a military pump off of ebay. The guy had 100% feedback and seemed to know his pump when I talked to him. Has been helpful. He converted it over from 24 volts. Fuel shutoff solenoid clicks when it direct give it power from the battery. Cant tell if it does when I turn the key but it is getting 12.25 volts so I assume it is.

It was running great. Then one morning decided to not to start. Sprayed some wd 40 in it and it started. Started well all day. Next day same thing. Did we 40 again. Next day still no start. Pushed it into the shop and noticed the throttle shaft o rings were leaking. Replaced those and they were still leaking so I figured the bushings were shot so I bought that military pump. Put it in and same thing. This time it will run on wd40 but as soon as that is gone it quits. I'm thinking it's got to be air in the system but I have no clue on how to get it out. I tried for about 8 hours yesterday.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Sb72elcamin350

I've tried bleeding them but doesnt seem to make a difference.

---

Did you bleed it successfully? You need to crack the lines at several of the injectors and crank until fuel comes out. Then tighten the lines and it should start on those cylinders. Eventually it will self bleed the rest.

It's easiest to do if the glow plugs are out.

So pull the glow plugs. Crack all the lines and crank and hope I see some fuel come out of the cracked lines? I had cracked a few of the lines, not all of them and didnt pull the glow plugs.

Removing the glow plugs allows for faster, longer cranking, with less stress on the starter and batteries. Faster cranking also helps move the fuel better. Once you see fuel at an injector line, tighten them and crank until you get a mist of fuel from the glow plug hole. Not a lot, just a hint. Reinstall the plugs and give it a go. It should start, if the glow plugs cycle. If it still doesn't show fuel at the injectors after all that, either fuel isn't getting to the injection pump, or the pump is NFG.

Awesome. Thanks for the advice. I will give it a try and see what happens.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Sb72elcamin350

I had cracked a few of the lines, not all of them and didnt pull the glow plugs.

---

That will work eventually. Did you get fuel from the fittings? You need to wait until al the air is purged from the lines. Once it starts, even on just a few cylinders, the remaining lines will purge themselves.

Have you confirmed fuel is being delivered to the injection pump? Run the lift pump and make sure fuel is circulating through to the injection pump return line.

If I pop off the return line on top of the injection pump and crank it fuel should come out correct?

You don't even have to crank it; just run the lift pump.

Ok cool. I will give it and try and go from there. Thanks for the help.

As Maverick mentioned.

YANK THE GLOW PLUGS

Get fuel flowing to the injection pump from the filter....once you get fuel to the injection pump inlet.... Crank the beast

Usually 20-30 seconds of FREE spinning and you will be blowing fuel mist out the glow holes like crazy.

Once you have fuel mist at the glow plug holes...button things back up an glow it and go for a start.

It will likely run a bit crappy and possibly die a couple times but should clear out quickly and settle down.

You don't need to crack the lines.... MESSY just pull the glow plugs.


NOW

Military pumps can be 24 volt on the fuel shut off coil....be sure you are not trying to get the thing to operate on 12 volt if it has a 24 volt coil...... JUST AND FYI

The injector pump should make an audible CLICK at the pump when the key is turned on and off.

Get a helper and you get up and listen to the IP

No click....not gonna run....24 volt coil?????

It's got 12 volt solenoids in it now. When I power it from the battery I can hear it click. I'm solo so i cant turn the key and hear it at the same time but it's getting 12.25 volts so i assume its clicking.

Turn the key to ON, and you can disconnect/connect the spade at the pump. It should click or clunk solid, and you should feel it with your hand on the pump. If the click is weak, sluggish, or buzzes, it's likely a 24V solenoid.

Also note, ebay and many "liquidator" IP's are notoriously junk. "Military take-off" is not a positive feature. They are not routinely removed and sold until completely used up. There's a lot of myth in regards to military equipment parts. Many of them are good rebuild cores, but that's about where it ends. Some are good, and even very good, but they are the exception, not the rule. Very rarely are any of them actually tested, or removed from (genuinely) known running equipment.

I was interested in the military pump for the artic feature. The fuel here in northeast mt gets to like 70% number 1 when it starts getting really cold. I saw -50 last winter without windchill. The guy was supposed to put a 12v solenoid in it. I can compare the click to the other 2 pumps I have and see if they are similar.

Well I got back up to the farm where my truck is so I can work on it. Put clear lines on it for the return and not much was happening. Checked the solenoid and it barely clicks. This time I checked the other 2 pumps I have and they click loud compared to this one. I dont think my pump ever got converted over from 24 volts. Either i got sent the wrong one cuz they guy was supposed to do that or he is trying to pull some shadyness.