few questions about wiring and CDR

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10-23-2020, 16:50
CryHavocc

few questions about wiring and CDR

So been along time since I have posted here so I'll get you all up to speed. 1984 k10 PO melted the fuse box and 90% of the wiring. I have since purchased an all American Auto Wire kit for my truck along with a Dakota digital dash with GPS. Kit is nice everything is labeled and modular. Engine harness is for a gasser shocker there, only thing I needed out of it was power to the fuse box and the starter/alternator wiring. So I have my glow plugs on a momentary switch. I have my cold start high idle also on a switch in the dash. no to my first question.

Originally the cold start coolant switch was located near the #8 cylinder pass side head. I would like to instead install it on the cross over plug. Is there any reason that I cant? So all I need to do is supply one side of it with keyed 12v from the dash switch then wire the other side to cold start advance and high idle solenoid correct? I have used the drivers side head location for my dash temp sensor. The only thing I see as a con on the cross over location is that its not really submerged in coolant so its not a real true reading.

My 6.2 is N/A and has the stock CDR location for a 1984 bracket over the alternator. I want to use a 7.3L CDR valve as I have a duel plane intake topped with a plastic Humvee intake tube. I made a custom intake adapter that turns the intake 90 deg so it fits my truck. The reason for the 7.3 CDR is I want to relocate the CDR away from the alt and mount it to the intake adapter. Any reason a 6.9/7.3 CRD wont work?

one last question the trucks got a th400 there is a bracket under the dash that has the kick down switch on it. I'm assuming that just gets wired to the trans some where and there also is a vacuum line to and from the the motor and trans. I'm confused as to what both are for?
10-24-2020, 18:05
2INSANE

Quote:

Originally Posted by CryHavocc

So been along time since I have posted here so I'll get you all up to speed. 1984 k10 PO melted the fuse box and 90% of the wiring. I have since purchased an all American Auto Wire kit for my truck along with a Dakota digital dash with GPS. Kit is nice everything is labeled and modular. Engine harness is for a gasser shocker there, only thing I needed out of it was power to the fuse box and the starter/alternator wiring. So I have my glow plugs on a momentary switch. I have my cold start high idle also on a switch in the dash. no to my first question.

Originally the cold start coolant switch was located near the #8 cylinder pass side head. I would like to instead install it on the cross over plug. Is there any reason that I cant? So all I need to do is supply one side of it with keyed 12v from the dash switch then wire the other side to cold start advance and high idle solenoid correct? I have used the drivers side head location for my dash temp sensor. The only thing I see as a con on the cross over location is that its not really submerged in coolant so its not a real true reading.

My 6.2 is N/A and has the stock CDR location for a 1984 bracket over the alternator. I want to use a 7.3L CDR valve as I have a duel plane intake topped with a plastic Humvee intake tube. I made a custom intake adapter that turns the intake 90 deg so it fits my truck. The reason for the 7.3 CDR is I want to relocate the CDR away from the alt and mount it to the intake adapter. Any reason a 6.9/7.3 CRD wont work?

one last question the trucks got a th400 there is a bracket under the dash that has the kick down switch on it. I'm assuming that just gets wired to the trans some where and there also is a vacuum line to and from the the motor and trans. I'm confused as to what both are for?

I know there are two different ways to mount the CDR. Look at the CUCV m1009 CDR pictures and decide if that will style work for you.

What color is the wire for the “Kick Down” switch? The Vacuum line to the th400 goes to the vacuum modulator. The vacuum modulator determines the shifting points. Those points can be changed by turning the small screw inside the nipple of the modulator. I have mine wide open for smoother and faster shifting. Especially from 2Nd to 3rd.

As for the other questions... Keep it stock...

Can I see pictures of this dual plain intake?
10-25-2020, 07:20
CryHavocc

3 Attachment(s)

Pics as requested

I don't know what color the wires as the previous owner didn't have them hooked up or missing or melted solid. PO installed a aftermarket radio that shorted out and melted most of the wiring under dash. The only thing that worked on the truck where the headlight and turn signals. Thanks for the help I think ill try the 7.3 CDR as I am aware of the other locations pass side valve cover will be in the way of the intake

intake is wet with oil would a catch can between the CDR and oil fill stop that?
10-25-2020, 15:35
2INSANE

Quote:

Originally Posted by CryHavocc

Pics as requested

I don't know what color the wires as the previous owner didn't have them hooked up or missing or melted solid. PO installed a aftermarket radio that shorted out and melted most of the wiring under dash. The only thing that worked on the truck where the headlight and turn signals. Thanks for the help I think ill try the 7.3 CDR as I am aware of the other locations pass side valve cover will be in the way of the intake

intake is wet with oil would a catch can between the CDR and oil fill stop that?

Looks like the Civilian model Cdr would be beneficial for your truck.

Pic of 6.5 Or very early model 6.2 Cdr location.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...1_IMG_2036.JPG

Picture of J code CDR

https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...1_IMG_2037.JPG

Picture of Civilian 6.2 1983+ CDR

https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...1_IMG_2038.JPG

Hope this helps! Good luck!
10-25-2020, 15:45
2INSANE

That Glow plug relay wire blue or purple in your picture is bad location! Looks like the hood is hitting it.
10-28-2020, 11:33
More Power

Quote:

Originally Posted by CryHavocc

So been along time since I have posted here so I'll get you all up to speed. 1984 k10 PO melted the fuse box and 90% of the wiring. I have since purchased an all American Auto Wire kit for my truck along with a Dakota digital dash with GPS. Kit is nice everything is labeled and modular. Engine harness is for a gasser shocker there, only thing I needed out of it was power to the fuse box and the starter/alternator wiring. So I have my glow plugs on a momentary switch. I have my cold start high idle also on a switch in the dash. no to my first question.

Originally the cold start coolant switch was located near the #8 cylinder pass side head. I would like to instead install it on the cross over plug. Is there any reason that I cant? So all I need to do is supply one side of it with keyed 12v from the dash switch then wire the other side to cold start advance and high idle solenoid correct? I have used the drivers side head location for my dash temp sensor. The only thing I see as a con on the cross over location is that its not really submerged in coolant so its not a real true reading.

My 6.2 is N/A and has the stock CDR location for a 1984 bracket over the alternator. I want to use a 7.3L CDR valve as I have a duel plane intake topped with a plastic Humvee intake tube. I made a custom intake adapter that turns the intake 90 deg so it fits my truck. The reason for the 7.3 CDR is I want to relocate the CDR away from the alt and mount it to the intake adapter. Any reason a 6.9/7.3 CRD wont work?

one last question the trucks got a th400 there is a bracket under the dash that has the kick down switch on it. I'm assuming that just gets wired to the trans some where and there also is a vacuum line to and from the the motor and trans. I'm confused as to what both are for?

Relocating the cold start coolant temperature switch shouldn't be a problem.

The stock 6.2L CDR was engineered to help maintain a slight negative pressure in the crankcase, while freely passing crankcase gases to the intake manifold to be recycled. If the 7.3L Ford CDR operates the same, then it's OK. Too much negative or positive pressure in the crankcase can cause problems - with oil seal leaks and/or possible contamination. So, I guess the first question to answer is "does the 7.3L CDR operate the same"?

What most people do who want to replace the original early CDR is to install a late 6.2 or 6.5 passenger side valve cover, then use a 6.5 CDR. It's an easy install and guaranteed to work correctly.