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From what I have read, It would seem that a replacement 6.5 is hard to come by. The power is marginal and a quality rebuilder is hard to find and if you find one the time frame is way out.
it would seem that the Dodge engine outperforms the Chevy and is readily available.
If this is the case would anyone know of a kit that can be bought for this type of swap. Also, which engine should I look for?I have no clue as to the type or size Dodge would be best.
My 6.2 is running fine but the lack of power is frustrating at times. I really notice it when I'm towing my trailer in the mountains.
I love my truck but need more power.
If anyone could tell me which engine to use (year/size)I would appreciate it.
Thanks
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There have been some conversions done using the Cummins 6BT engine, a local friend who is a diesel mechanic did it in his 86 C3500 Crew Cab truck. As far as what size Dodge engine, they only have the Cummins 6BT for a Diesel, or in the late 70's models an inline Nissan Diesel (No Joke) was available. Really detailed conversion, and you'll definitly be without a truck for at least 2 months. His conversion took 3, but he got everything working, right down to the factory cruise control (which doesn't even work on my 86!).
I notice from your signature that you're running a Banks, could you elaborate a little on that, are you running the turbo setup or the stinger setup?
If you're after more power, there are some things you can do to spruce up the ol 6.2L. But we'll need to know what you're pulling to know what the engine is already up against.
Again, with the Dodge engine conversion, I don't think it's worth it in the long run, and you could have a custom 6.2 or 6.5 built by one of the venders on here for less $$ that could be built to perform very well.
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John,
I want to thank you for the reply. I really love my truck for it's function and utility. but as I have stated the power is an issue.
I tow a trailer that is approximately 4300 lbs when loaded with all of my stuff. On flat groung it pulls just fine. out of the hole is no problem and it pulls straight and true. I moved up from a mini van and this is defintely the way to go.
The truck is set up with the complete Banks turbo/exhaust package. Prior to this system it was misery going into the mountains. The turbo was a huge improvement over the N.A. system.
I have 4:11 in the rear end with a turbo 400 trans. I have never been a speed demon so I rarely if ever go over 65 mph.
I would like to make it a better road truck with a 4th gear to keep the R's down yet I need the strength of the T400. I looked into a Gear Vendor system but they are 3k. I really dont want to go to a 700R4, I haven't had the best of luck in the past with this trans (85 sub w/700R4).
It seems the "fixes" are a mear cover for the lack of power. I really need to know how to squeeze more power out of my system without hurting it. I need to know how to "tune" this engine to make it a smooth runner.
Thanks for your time on this matter, Paul
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Paul,
With 4.11 gears and a TH400 you should be able to pull just fine, just not fast as you mentioned. You should seriously look into another tranny, I hate to say it but I think the 700 is going to be your best bet. You do have another alternative, that is converting to the 4L80E transmission. Jet Performance has a complete kit that has the electronic controller and mechanical linkage to allow it to work on a 6.2 for example. The 700 has to be built by a very experienced builder to be worthy for the task, but I think it can be built to handle the load. Another point I want to make about the 700 verses the 400 is that the 400 takes more power to run than the 700 does, how much, that I don't know but I'd say 5-10HP more. The gearing in the 700 would also be better for pulling than the 400, it has a lower first gear, and the other gears seem to keep the engine in the torque range better then the 400 does.
As far as making more power with your existing setup you can upgrade to the DB2 4911 injection pump, thats the injection pump off a mechanical 92/93 6.5 Turbo engine, and it will work fine on your rig with the turbo. Also, paired with the new pump, you can install 6.5L injectors, they have a higher pop pressure and atomize the fuel better and actually do generate more power. You can install these two mods fairly safely, as long as you still monitor your EGT gauge and keep it cool.
How many miles are on your rig? I know for sure that just freshening up the injectors on an engine that has over 100k miles will help in fuel economy and power. So that may be a route to look into doing soon.
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John,
I currently have 130k on the truck. I had the I.P. replaced about a yr ago. I don't know which type was installed. The garage said they were installing a "better" pump along with new injectors. Not being that familiar with the different systems I didn't reccomend which type to install.
The garage has been around for quite some time and deal with diesels only. They were the one's who installed the turbo system.
I will be taking the rig in shortly for a routine tune up. I would like to have it looked over prior to the camping summer season.
As far as towing up hills, it pulls up any grade at 53 MPH in 3rd. The temp usually stays at a 950 to 1050 range. When I have to drop down to 2nd it has plenty of pulling power but the speed is an issue. It's not right when V.W. vans pull away from me [img]smile.gif[/img]
Would it be better to use a 4L80E transmission vs. the T400 with a G.V. unit? What would a ball park figure be for one of these transmissions and is the "kit" really built for my older truck.
I tend to pull back when the "electric" systems start to come into play. I would hate to have issues with the conversion.
I need to replace my ring gear this summer, should I look into a different torque converter?
Would this help with some of the power issues?
I looked at your build up sheet and noticed the girdle kit. Would it be wise to have the kit installed when I take it in?
I too have a intermittent "noise/vibration" issue.
It comes and goes when I hit 65 MPH. I noticed that the vibration was greatest when I had hte air on. I had seen the belts really bouncing around so I tightened them and it helped. It would seem the belts have to be really tight.
I had thrown a belt about a month ago, oh well.
I think with the "reputation" of the 700R4 I will look for other ways to hel pout. I would be interested to know how the 4L80E transmission would work out.
Thanks again, Paul
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John,
It looks like the I.P. that was removed had a 4267 number per my receipt. It looks like a pump with a model number 4153 was installed. Do these numbers make any sence to you?
Thanks Paul
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Paul,
I looked at the injection pump numbers. I found them on the list here on the TDP, you can login too and look at them here:
http://www.thedieselpage.com/members/pumplist.htm
The DB2-4267 was the original pump for your 84-85 model, This is the pump for the "J" Series engine, which you have in a 3/4 ton.
The DB2-4153 replacement pump is from a year older 82-83 model 6.2L J series as well.
I'm asuming that when your shop R&R'ed the IP they turned this new pump up for the turbo as well. Either way, both pumps will perform the same, especially when turned up the 1/4 turn for the turbo via the fuel screw inside the pump.
Stud Girdle Kit? If you're going to have the oil pan off the engine at some point, then do it then, but I don't think it's worth it just for peace of mind. I especially wouldn't do it if you're paying someone else to do the work, it would be cost prohibited.
I'll get some time to search on the transmission conversion. prices. I seem to remember Jet Performance www.jetchip.com having a complete kit, but can't find it on their website.
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I have a 6.2 with a BanksTurbo, a 700R4 with a GearVendor and 4:10s in my 85 Van. I pull a travel trailer that weighs around 5000lbs and it does fine. I always could use more power, particularly in the mountains.
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The 700R4 can be set up to more than handle the needs you describe.
here is what needs to be done to get a top flight box.
Start witha "K" case 700 1988-89 vintage
add a new torque drive input shaft assembly with new HD sun shell.
New HD sprags front and rear
New bushings,thrust washers, 9 plate 3-4 clutch,
HD kevlar 2-4 band with a corvette servo.
transgo 2-3 shift kit and a new HD torque convertor. Set up the lockup on a switch so you can keep it from being a pest in the city.
Done right the 700R4 can do a great job but without the mods mentioned above it will be less than optimal. OH and dont forget a big kick butt cooler and a return line filter.
The 4L80 can be used but its going to be $$$$$$$$ spendy the tranny is costly and a stand alone computer kit is about a grand. I was going to use one in my Humvee replica project but the $$$$ just got out of hand so I built a 700 to the max and its fine. The 700 made itself a BAAAAAAAAAAAD reputation in the early days with the broken input shafts and burnt up 2-4 bands and 3-4 clutches and sundry other failures.
The biggy on the 700 is having the TV cable adjusted right. The shift kit has all the scoop on how to do it right. MY 700 will tear your head off when it makes the 1-2 shft but I can live with a stout shifting critter if it lives. The real truth is though the 400 is by far the best box GM ever built and with a cooler and a shft kit they are almost indestructible with any kind of common sense usage. You have mentioned the only draw back and that is speed when towing.
The 700 has a lovely 3:1 low gear and a nice .7:1 overdrive and will really tame them 4.10 butt gears down on the flat.
I purchased a good 6.5 turbo engine off ebay for 700 bucks and freshened it up. It was a 94 and had a bad PMD on the IP and the guy sold it as a bad engine as some Mechanic told him the engine was toast. Well the engine was really quite fine and its even better now with a freshen up and a mechanical IP on it.
Good luck with your project
Robyn
