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My 2003 2500HD D/A is not able to start due to battery state of charge after 2 weeks of not running. It has 2 red top Optima's and this is now occurring with great regularity. Have not measured static current drain but find this unusual. I had no issues with the factory AC Delco's of for the first year on the Optima's. I'm considering a Battery Tender. I used to drive her daily but now she's my hunting rig. It has 101500mi on it.
What do you think?
First make sure you shut off ign switch and remove keys, I found on my 02 it was very easy to go a tad too far when turning off ign switch and energizing the accy side of the switch.
Batteries go down in just about a week, I found out more than once.
Another possibility, have you connected any aftermarket device to a power source other than a switched one?
Merle
I too have mine sitting a lot, sometimes a week or two at a time. I have a Battery Tender (BT) hooked up to it and it works just fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by HarrySanders
You can order the BT from Battery Mart ( http://www.batterymart.com/p-battery...y-charger.html ) for as about as cheap as I have found them anywhere. The 2002 I just traded was doing the same thing. The batteries were wore out. One had the post that was corroded inside of the casing, a common problem with the AC-D side-posts. It surprises me that the Optimas are doing that but as said, there has to be a drain somewhere, maybe just enough to give you problems.
My thoughts on the BT is a small investment of under US$50, it's a great peace of mind for me. I have 7 single BTs running now. :D guaranteeing me that the (unattended) batteries will be good on any given day. Buy yourself the 25' extension cord for each tender. In addition, you may want a common cord for an extension under the hood out to an external port. I had them go to their spare parts bin and send me a short cord they had (after explaining my needs) as an extra cord there (free of charge). I made an extension to run from the common terminal lug (as the included pigtails are about 2 feet too short and the 25 footer is too much to bunch up under the hood) to the driver side hood just at the winsdhield as an exit port. I use the 25' cord to run overhead (as a drop cord) so that I don't have to walk around or under or over the unit's cord (I can't stand a nagging obsticle)
Spent some time today checking each circuit that is fused to see where the largest current draw was. The nominal draw when everything settles down is 160mA. I found 140mA of this draw goes away when the fuse for "STUD 2" under the hood is removed. What now? Does anyone know or have data on nominal static draw?
Stud 2 provides power to a brake controller, if you have one. It also powers the roof beacon circuit on trucks equipped with either the snow plow provisions (VYU), or roof mounted lamp (TRW) If this switch is turned on, the beacon relay is energized. When the ignition key is turned off, the indicator lamp in the switch will go out, but the relay remains on. Given the amount of your draw, my money is on the switch.