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rapidoxidationman 12-16-2011 12:04 PM

LLY head gasket & water pump swap play by play
anybody interested?

I ordered the parts from Kennedy today and will be embarking on this big project probably just after Christmas. Assuming that I do it right and successfully I can put together a picture thread on how I did it if there's any interest on it...

DmaxMaverick 12-16-2011 12:41 PM

That would be great. We can't have enough hands-on documentation. Let me know if you need any assistance getting it posted.

NutNbutGMC 12-16-2011 05:56 PM


Originally Posted by rapidoxidationman (Post 286854)
anybody interested?

I ordered the parts from Kennedy today and will be embarking on this big project probably just after Christmas. Assuming that I do it right and successfully I can put together a picture thread on how I did it if there's any interest on it...


rapidoxidationman 12-28-2011 09:15 PM

It begins.
The parts from Kennedy should be here tomorrow afternoon. I spent today under the hood of my truck tearing things down...

Started with a clean slate:
Yup, it is a bit intimidating to this rookie. I'm gonna just take small bites and eat the whole thing...
I started with removing both batteries. Not necessary perhaps, but a simple thing to do that got me off on the right foot. The cross brace at the front left of the truck (over the LH battery) came off too. Now there's a spot to put tools while I work:)

rapidoxidationman 12-28-2011 09:24 PM

Next to go was the air box and turbo inlet tube, another easy step:

took a couple pics of the Bosch EDU wiring harness to get me through the reassembly, then turned my wrenches to the charged air cooler outlet ductwork from the intake manifold tube:
Note that one can simply unclip the zip tie that holds the wiring harness cover to the inlet pipe. I cut mine before I noticed:(. Oops. No biggie, they're making new zip ties every day:cool:. Loosen and remove the wiring harness from that piece of ductwork.
Then I removed the wiring harness from the Bosch EDU on the right side of the engine.
from a couple of places.

I also pulled the wiring harness from the base of the intake manifold ductwork:

Now I was able to remove that intake manifold tube by removing 2 bolts and 4 nuts. The gaskets (2 rectangular and 1 round) came out easily and will be cleaned up for reuse.

rapidoxidationman 12-28-2011 09:37 PM

Removing the serpentine belt was another easy task, and is what I did next. The sound of the two idler pulleys tells me it is time to order up a couple of them cuz I don't care to have a bearing spin out on me sometime soon. They're on the list for the parts store.

Next out is the alternator. Easy to remove, but it did take a bit of careful prying to get it out of the bracket it is clamped to. Patience was key to not wrecking something expensive. The wiring harness got taped and labelled, just like every other wire in the snakepit that is this truck's electrical harness.:eek:

The AC compressor was next. 4 bolts from the bracket and it was loose, and removing the batteries gave me the ideal spot to store it without disconnecting any of the charged hoses: the right battery tray. Easy peasy and it folded right into place.

rapidoxidationman 12-28-2011 09:49 PM

Time to turn my attention to the front: remove the ecu/tcm from the left side of the radiator shroud. Two bolts at the top and lift it out, disconnect the wiring harness from the very expensive boxes contained therein. After the electronics were out of the way, I removed the other two bolts on the top lip of the shroud then unbuttoned the removeable rivets from the mdsection (two per side). Pry up the center button and the whole rivet can be removed then reused on reassembly. No pics, but it's pretty self explanatory.

Time to drain the cooling system... removed the lower splash shield beneath the truck, donned my safety goggles, and loosened the clamp on the hose where it connects to the water pump inlet (inlet? I think so, but correct me if I'm wrong...), set a large pan beneath, and pulled the hose loose. Caught most of it, but mopped up a bit:o. Now I was able to remove the upper radiator hose between the radiator and the thermostat housing outlet (inlet?) tube.

Question for the experts: which way does coolant flow? Does it go into the radiator from the top or bottom?

rapidoxidationman 12-28-2011 10:10 PM

Time to jump into the wiring snake pit again...
disconnect the two wiring superconnectors on the bracket that lives behind the AC compressor:
Great design, fold the handle back and it pushes the connection apart. Clever bit of engineering. In the pic, one is engaged and the other is disengaged. I also disconnected the wire from the box at the rear of the engine compartment (glow plug relay, I think?) so I could move the wiring harness out of the way:
Don't forget to keep labelling your wires as you remove them...

Now the power steering pump is being removed from its bracket. Left the hoses connected and pulled the pump out of the way with some bailing wire.
The battery terminal station that is mounted to the PS pump bracket can come with it. I removed mine before I realized that.

Removing the fan/clutch assembly without access to the proper tools can be tough. Fortunately I'm at a shop that has pneumatic tools... installing it with the proper amount of torque is going to be tricky though.

Then I removed the wiring harness from the bracket on top of the thermostat housing:
Then the superconnector mounting bracket that holds the 2 superconnectors previously disconnected had to come out.
There's a couple more connections that go to the turbo (modulator?) that need to be disconnected and labeled.
The turbo black box that's connected to the turbo via a white wire needs to be removed from the bracket and moved out of the way (I left the other end connected to the turbo).

which put the EGR crossover tube in the way. Time for it to go. A bolt on either end, loosen the clamp on the intake manifold pipe, and gently pull it out at the T shown here

rapidoxidationman 12-28-2011 10:20 PM

Yup, lots of jumping around the engine bay by this shade tree mechanic. Now I pulled the turbo coolant inlet (outlet?) pipe from the thermostat inlet (outlet?) housing pipe. This was a bit tricky, but I was able to turn the part seen in the pic with the number 5 on it loose by holding the clamp on the rubber hose open so the hardware would spin.
Now I was able to get the thermostat housing cap out with the thermostats and the outlet (inlet?) housing pipe. Next out was the oil filler pipe:
Next the power steering and AC compressor bracket needed to go. Easy enough:
and on the other side, the serpentine belt tension pulley needed to go:
and in order to get the alternator bracket out, a few other steps had to be made...

rapidoxidationman 12-28-2011 10:39 PM

beginning with removing the charged air return line from the intercooler flex hose:
and removing the heater coolant outlet (inlet?) pipe at the top:
and the bottom:
finally I was able to remove the Bosch EDU (2 fuel lines, 3 bolts - don't lose the bolt bushings...)
pay close attention to all the wiring harness mounts...
and now the alternator mount bracket can come off, with the two idler pulleys still mounted. Not that a fuel line is mounted on a bracket extension and the oil dipstick tube also needs to be disconnected from that extention.

back to center: Disconnect the temp sensor wire on the thermostat housing:
remove the turbo inlet elbow
remove the turbo servo wire and wire bracket

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