No Start after new batteries

So going down the check list for staling issues I replaced my batteries.
This vehicle is new to me, it had very week batteries but would always start.
It started fine this AM (low 30's)
Idled a bit pulled 1/2 into garage (wont all fit) and shut it down.
I pulled the batteries and replaced them both.
Now it turns over quickly but won't start :(
Didn't really mess with much else while doing batteries...
Took the cover off fuel filter but since it wasn't in stock never removed filter.
After no start I loosened filter drain and there was fuel.
What's next?
Wait to start light comes on for about 10sec then cycles on/off (normal IIRC)
No codes pulled from my scanner, although 1st use on this vehicle.

Does the lift pump run...
You should hear it ticking, under the truck. Below driver seat at the frame.
any codes, ses light ??

I just went through similar problems. My lift pump was bad. Part of the problem was it was still making noise. Once I pulled the outlet line and hit the key only a dribble came out. A word of warning - fix the lift pump instead of trying the starter over and over. Depending on the age of your starter, you might drive the final nail into it.

What does the lift pump look like? Is there pictures posted anywhere?
I have what appears to be a very very small pump near the tank and another large complicated looking device closer to the motor.
Haven't tested for pressure as there's 9" snow on the ground.
Also, where exactly is the PMD on the motor? front/back pass/driver?
Cant see crap topside on a van... There's no room!
I have a PMD, cable, & cooler on order, was hoping to just get the plug off.
Want to disassemble as little as possible

poke your head under your drivers door

its right down there on the inside of the frame rail.

looks similar to a gas engine fuel filter.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Wing Nut OOA

looks similar to a gas engine fuel filter.

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Got it, THANKS!

PMD, cooler, and cable arrived. Installed them and she fired up.
I could barely unplug the PMD, there was no way I could get the resistor out.
I could see it clearly, it's marked 6, but couldn't reach it.
Is there any harm in driving as is? I haven't yet. (IIRC it's fine, but detuned)
When I order a new one do I put a 6 in or different?
Filter is on order, will check lift pump then.
THANKS!

If you want to remove the resistor, use a paper clip.
straighten it, and make a 90 dgr at the end big enough to fit in the hole in the resistor. where the pins not are.
If you change resistor to eg. a nr 9 it will take a while before the ecm recognice it.
Ore if you have accsess to a scantool it goes faster if you go thru the timing.learning.
The OEM states a 6% increase in fuel delivery over a stock #5 at full throttle.
http://www.ssdieselsupply.com/images...0730192748.jpg

here is a pic of the lift pump.

http://www.ssdieselsupply.com/images...0425132007.jpg

THANKS
I have a van, so there's little room to get at anything.
I made a big paperclip tool from a coathanger (needed length) but could only get the bottom hole and pulling from one didn't work.
There's no way I'm taking that crap back apart to try again. :eek:
I'd like to take it to work tomorrow, shakedown run :D
Am I good to drive as is until I buy one?

edit...
Knew I had read it somewhere here

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DmaxMaverick

It'll set a DTC (trouble code), and reduce power to default (minimum) fueling.

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If you drive it w/o the resistor, it won't hurt anything, at all. The PCM will, at some time if it hasn't already, notice the missing resistor, and reduce to default fueling, set a DTC, and turn on the SES. Once you install the resistor, it will resume normal operation, as it will run the resistor check routine with every start, until it sees it. The SES may stay on for several start/warm-up cycles after an acceptable resistor is installed, but will turn off, eventually (usually after 2 good/clear warm-ups). The DTC may stay in history for up to 40 warm-up cycles. Ideally, you should clear the code(s) after it is installed.

You should replace the resistor with one of the same number. You can use a higher (or lower) number resistor. Most of the time, the PCM will be happy with it. Sometimes, the resistor will be out of the PCM's acceptable range, and it will return to behavior like it isn't installed. If you had a 6 in before (and it was original with the current IP), going up to an 8 or 9 will probably work fine. The numbered resistors compensate for IP internal tolerance variations, and are matched (or recommended) at the pump overhaul or new build final testing process. The PCM will adjust maximum fuel volume, according to the resistor.

Thanks for all the replys, it's appreciated.
I'm at the end of my rope, it won't start again.
Turning the Ing on I loosened the water drain on the filter and fuel comes out quickly and the pump changes pitch.
It appears to be working some, I have no idea if it's 100%.
Doesn't sound like a normal pump to me... kinda clicky vs. a humm
I was kind of depending on this tomorrow. Hope I'm not stuck w/ a Lemon.

It should sound "clicky" - if it hums, it's dead.

That said, check your grounds...I had a nagging problem on my motorhome, and after replacing the lift pump (which was dead), glow plogs and controller (which were marginal but good), I traced my starting issues to bad grounds - really bad.

Only connection that didn't seem up to par was the 2nd battery + side post.
I added a star washer in between to tighten it up, I guess the rubber swelled/hardend.
The PMD, cooler, & extension arrived and are installed.
I changed the fuel filter, and purged. This shot fuel all over my driveway so lift pump is working well IMO.
Sometimes it starts, sometimes it doesn't. I can't find rhyme or reason.
Took it around the block the other day, stalled about 6times in 1.3miles.
I have a new PMD on order since the one with the cooler was used maybe it's bad (supposedly tested good)
If that doesn't work I'm not sure what's next.
Read here somewhere about an ignition harness security something or other that fails.
Will try searching and see it it applies to my 2002. (dash security light seems to work as per the owners manual)
Ideas?

Did you check and see if the fuel pump was pumping after the engine is running???

This is a seperate circuit..

Crack the water bleed while its running...see what happens

good luck

It never started again, new PMD arrived and all is well for the past two days.
E-mailed they guy who I bought the "tested good" PMD, cooler, & cable.
We'll see if he sends a good one out, I'll keep it as a spare.
Thanks for all the ideas in the thread!