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Thread: Getting my SM465 back into my 6.2L

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
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    Kansas City, MO
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    Default Getting my SM465 back into my 6.2L

    So as the title says, I am having a hell of a time getting the tranny back into my 82 K2500. I would love to take it to a mechanic, but I don't have the money for the tow or even the cost of them putting it back in, sealing it, fluids, transfer case an probably a new cross member to support the trans to transfer case adapter in place.


    SO I am using hand tools, no lift and a floor trans jack a buddy got from HF, so not a great start.


    Honestly if someone is in the Kansas City area, I would figure a way to pay for the time. but as of right now it is me myself and I trying to get it back in. If anyone has anything that can help me I would love to see it. I need this truck back up, all I have is my wife's care and a motorcycle. wife would like her car back as well, lol. Thanks for reading.

  2. #2
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    Feb 2000
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    I've replaced quite a few transmissions by myself without a lift... Though not a 465.

    One way I found to make it easier is to build a crib to incrementally raise the transmission to the right height and angle. A hydraulic jack can be used to raise first one end then the other. I used blocks and lumber scraps to crib the trans into the position it needed to be.

    You could use a motorcycle strap to secure the transmission to a rectangle of 3/4" plywood to use as a base for cribbing, which would make the setup more stable as you're raising it into position.

    Once you get the transmission close to the right height, use another motorcycle strap to secure it to the vehicle so it cannot fall, as you wrestle it into its final position. Jim

  3. #3
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    Did you change the clutch?
    I just did a Spicer 7 speed in my Topkick7500 by myself
    I did have a tranny jack,but it was one for light trucks,the 7 speed pretty much maxed out the jack.
    I made sure the clutch was reinstalled perfect,then i made sure one of the splines was exactly 12 O Clock,did the same with the trans.Plus i took a sharpie and drew a line straight back from a spline so i would know where the splines were once it was started into the clutch plate.
    It went in nice and easy with no drama.
    Take your time and make sure everything is right.Get the trans on a platform or jack and it will go in.
    90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews

  4. #4
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    Granby, Missouri, USA
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    My dad and I replaced one years ago with no jack. Had one guy inside the truck with the transmission tunnel removed holding the transmission up with a strap, and another guy underneath wiggling the transmission into place. Not ideal, but it worked.

    Casey
    1995 K1500 Tahoe 2 door, 6.5LTD, 4L80E, NP241, 3.42's, 285/75R16 BFG K02's; 1997 506 block; Kennedy OPS harness, gauges, Quick Heat plugs, and TD-Max chip; Dtech FSD on FSD Cooler; vacuum pump deleted, HX35 turbo, Turbo Master, 3.5" Kennedy exhaust, F code intake; dual t/stats, HO water pump, Champion radiator; Racor fuel filter

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by arveetek View Post
    My dad and I replaced one years ago with no jack. Had one guy inside the truck with the transmission tunnel removed holding the transmission up with a strap, and another guy underneath wiggling the transmission into place. Not ideal, but it worked.

    Casey
    When I was a high schooler, I changed an automatic in my 1994 Impala in our gravel driveway... in March (wet/cold), by myself. In those days, I'd not unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate… Didn't know any better. Luckily I didn't ruin any input shaft seals.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by More Power View Post
    In those days, I'd not unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate… Didn't know any better. Luckily I didn't ruin any input shaft seals.
    On one of my first automatic transmission swaps, I failed to make sure the converter was pushed all the way back into the pump before tightening the mounting bolts holding the transmission to the rear of the engine. Ending up damaging the pump and having to pull the transmission again to get it repaired (again).

    Some lessons are learned the hard way.

    Casey
    1995 K1500 Tahoe 2 door, 6.5LTD, 4L80E, NP241, 3.42's, 285/75R16 BFG K02's; 1997 506 block; Kennedy OPS harness, gauges, Quick Heat plugs, and TD-Max chip; Dtech FSD on FSD Cooler; vacuum pump deleted, HX35 turbo, Turbo Master, 3.5" Kennedy exhaust, F code intake; dual t/stats, HO water pump, Champion radiator; Racor fuel filter

  7. #7
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    Oct 2017
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    Thank you for the reply's. I am gonna assume I didn't have it lined up right, the clutch never came off, and I am not sure if the bell housing should be on the tranny or motor to back it easier. I will attempt to move the jack to the side and try to use another jack to raise the ass end of the tranny and muscle it in that way. I wish I have the muscle mass to just lift it into place my self but I do not. I may purchase a clutch spine alignment tool to see where the grooves are.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeltaWolf View Post
    Thank you for the reply's. I am gonna assume I didn't have it lined up right, the clutch never came off, and I am not sure if the bell housing should be on the tranny or motor to back it easier. I will attempt to move the jack to the side and try to use another jack to raise the ass end of the tranny and muscle it in that way. I wish I have the muscle mass to just lift it into place my self but I do not. I may purchase a clutch spine alignment tool to see where the grooves are.
    I've only done a couple of these models, but both times the bellhousing stayed on the motor. As long as the clutch pedal was not depressed at any time the tranny was removed, it should go right back in. Leave the tranny in gear, and use the output yoke to turn the input shaft back and forth as you move the tranny towards the engine to help engage it into the splines on the clutch.

    Casey
    1995 K1500 Tahoe 2 door, 6.5LTD, 4L80E, NP241, 3.42's, 285/75R16 BFG K02's; 1997 506 block; Kennedy OPS harness, gauges, Quick Heat plugs, and TD-Max chip; Dtech FSD on FSD Cooler; vacuum pump deleted, HX35 turbo, Turbo Master, 3.5" Kennedy exhaust, F code intake; dual t/stats, HO water pump, Champion radiator; Racor fuel filter

  9. #9
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    Oct 2017
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    unfortunately for me the Spine one the trans has been moved due to work, I think the motor was started as it had a little bit of minor work done to it as well. so I think i will pick up a the spine tool that comes in the clutch pack and go from there to line it up. I thing most of my problem is the alignment of the transmission. I was thinking of putting the bell housing on the transmission as it seems easier to line up and easier to attach the housing to the transmission while I have the transmission out. Now after I get the trans back in, I will have to looking into the adapter for the trans to transfer case, as the one that was on the truck broke while taking out the transmission. If anyone has a photo of the original cross member that would be helpful, because when I look up new ones it looks different than the one I have but the ones I see are all after market.

  10. #10
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    Dec 2003
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    Hi
    It doesn't really mater that the splines moved on the transmission.
    So long as the clutch pedal hasn't been stepped on your clutch will still be aliened

    If you leave the tranny in gear you can turn the front splines while installing it by turning the back shaft.
    I probably have the adapter for your tranny/transfer case.Take a picture of yours.

    Mine would take a while to get to you,plus cost a bit to ship.
    90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews

  11. #11
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    New Hampshire - Live Free or Die
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    If I never haver to do that again, it'll be too soon! The critical thing (assuming you didn't step on the clutch pedal) is the input shaft of the trans has to be at the same angle from horizontal as the crankshaft of the engine. One thing you cannot do is get the trans part way into the clutch hub then let the weight of the tail of the trans hang on it.
    The Constitution needs to be re-read, not re-written!

    If you can't handle Dr. Seuss, how will you handle real life?

    Current oil burners: MB GLK250 BlueTEC, John Deere X758
    New ride: MB GLS450 - most stately
    Gone but not forgotten: '87 F350 7.3, '93 C2500 6.5, '95 K2500 6.5, '06 K2500HD 6.6, '90 MB 350SDL, Kubota 7510

  12. #12
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    Oct 2017
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    Kansas City, MO
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    will do, I bought one but apparently but the part that connects the adapter to the cross member isn't as tall as the one that came off of it, even though I was told it was for a K2500.

  13. #13
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    Oct 2017
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    Sorry it's taking so long on the photos, I am trying to figure out how to get them on here

  14. #14
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    Sorry this took so long. still having a bitch of time, gave up for a couple of weeks but now I really do need to get it back in.


    https://flic.kr/p/24NLn2R
    https://flic.kr/p/2fqjKDi
    https://flic.kr/p/24NLn4e


    hopefully this works.

  15. #15
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    Couple of things...



    Has anyone pushed the clutch in with the tranny out?


    It would be much easier with the bell attached to the tranny and you could make sure the clutch splines are lined up with the pilot bearing.


    Next, a couple pieces of threaded rod will help line everything up and give some wiggle room pulling things together. it's a job without the better tools and work area but it can be done, like others have said, everything will need to be straight to each other, you may need to jack the rear of the motor up some if it's hanging down, maybe remove the tranny cross member if you haven't..
    1993 Chevy K3500

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  16. #16
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    Oct 2017
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    I am unsure if anyone has pushed the clutch in. guess I will need to get an alignment tool to test that. the N208 transfercase and crossmember has been pulled, but the adapter is different than what was in there and isn't the same size. not sure if it was orginal or taken off of another vehicle and I can not find a photo of a stock 82 K2500 to compare it to.

  17. #17
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    So I got the transmission back in and as I was afraid the adapter for the NP208 and sm465 I bought was the wrong one. Can anyone please tell me which is the right one. I would love a part number or a link to one for sale. the one I have is the right attachments just the part that you sit on the cross member is to short.


    Edit one: apparently the one I have is for a late 80's truck.
    Last edited by DeltaWolf; 04-12-2019 at 23:08.

  18. #18
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    Hi
    Can you post pictures of the two side by side?
    Have you thought about using a spacer to get the proper height?
    Sucks when stuff isn't right.
    i had a nightmare tranny change in my Topkick,it really sucked and took a bunch of time because the tranny came from a shop 1600 miles away,and the owner has a habit of forgetting about you unless you were in his face hassling him.
    90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews

  19. #19
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    https://flic.kr/p/24UKfuD


    https://flic.kr/p/24NLn2R


    That is the best I can do as I have not photos of them side by side, but it looks like a spacer would work, I just do not know how big

  20. #20
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    Oct 2017
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    OK I have it in place and need about a 4 inch spacer, I will work on this later with a 4x4 timber as a temp spacer.

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