Can't get rail dust off!

[drmike]

My truck was stuck on a train for 3 1/2 LONG weeks. I have severe rail dust which is very apparent on a white truck. I tried a polish which only took a little off and then took it to my dealer. He washed it with something that did nothing for it. Then he gave me some polish that did nothing but turn my hand green. I don't think any brand of polish will work because the particles are so attached, it takes 3-4 scratches with my fingernail to loosen a single flake.
My dealer did not want to put a buffer on it but I don't know if there is a legit reason or if he doesn't like work. Someone please tell me what I need to do to get this taken care of?

[SoCalDMAX]

drmike,

Here's what I would prescribe. (Always wanted to say that!) DO NOT let the dealer hit it with a buffer. Don't let anyone else touch your paint.

Check out www.zainobros.com. They sell a premium line of show car polish, etc. They sell clay bar very inexpensively. Use the clay bar following the directions on the package, and it should come right off. (Or buy clay bar locally then stock up when the zaino products arrive.)

Then use their polish lok, which you don't remove, followed by show car polish, remove it and use the spray-on gloss enhancer, wipe dry. The products are VERY easy to apply and remove, go on very thin so it goes a long ways, produce no dust and give an incredible shine, more apparent on dark or metallic paints. For an example of a black BMW revived from buffer's swirl mark h*ll, paste this link:

http://www.pbase.com/sfrakes/bmw_750il

I used it on the truck and I only wash it every 4,000mi. I'm always asked if I just washed and waxed it. The dirt has a hard time sticking to such a slick surface. The nice part is it only takes 45min to wash and wax an entire crewcab shortbox. (But I'm still only gonna do it when necessary, so far every 4,000mi )

Zaino bros. doesn't have on-line ordering, but they do ship fast once they receive your check.

I have no connection to them, but I'm very happy to share info on what I think are great products!

Regards, Steve

[Flyboy]

Go to Zaino Brothers (www.zainobros.com). They have a clay bar that is supposed to remove rail dust. I have some ordered but it hasn't arrived yet. Their web site has a lot of information.

[Flyboy]

I guess I type slower than SoCalDMAX!!

[drmike]

Thanks guys I'll give it a shot.

[drmike]

I forgot to ask how to get polish smears off of the black plastic fenderwells. I tried to be carefull but still got some on there. I'm tired of covering it up with wet gloss.

[DSLPOWR]

Good question drmike, I was wondering the same, I have waxed my truck several times now being careful not to get any wax on the fender flares but have gotten a little around the edge. I have tried a few cleaners with no luck. Anyone know the answer to this one?

[bearman]

Try taking a paint brush, cut the bristles real short so that they are stiff. After the wax has dried, just brush it away.
Cheers
Bear

[DSLPOWR]

Good question drmike, I was wondering the same, I have waxed my truck several times now being careful not to get any wax on the fender flares but have gotten a little around the edge. I have tried a few cleaners with no luck. Anyone know the answer to this one?

[mdrag]

Agree with NO BUFFER and think the clay bar idea is the way to go. You should be able to find a clay cleaning system at any autoparts store/Wally world.

As for the wax on the black trim - if the stiff brush does not do it, you may want to try Prep Solv along with the stiff brush. It is available at most auto paint stores and more of a 'pro' product used by body shops to clean an area prior to painting. I would try it on a small hidden area to make sure it won't harm the material but you should be ok - this stuff kinda has a mineral spirits smell (mineral spirits is another idea to try as well).

I've also heard using undiluted dishwashing detergent with a stiff brush to remove the wax from black trim works well - but I've never tried it. Good luck.

Thinking back IIRC, GM had a memo or tech bulletin out on this subject...but I don't remember what it said.

[Redhawk]

Ditto on the Zaino stuff, especially the clay bar. For the "overwax" on the black plastic, a powerwash at your local wash-it-yourself place will take it right off (usually the wax on the paint as well).

[1BADDMAX]

Zaino is great. I used the clay bar on my truck when I got it and it made a big difference. Also check out their other AWESOME products.

[mark45678]

DRMIKE!!!! I have had 2 white truck for a total of 7 years,I know just how hard it is to keep things clean!!!! The best thing to do is the clay it works like a charm!!! I have use mothers clay for gray enamel paint overspray on my 98! I could not believe how clean the truck was after.there was a special lub spray call final inspector that you use to make this playdough like product work its magic. I think the clay and lub where around 60 dolars {us}....3 hours or time and its the nicest factory paint job you will ever find!!!!

DO NOT BUFF THE TRUCK!!!!

[mdrag]

drmike,

Just in case you need it for the wax problem, the Prep Solvent 3319S is made by DuPont.

[slapshot44]

I've been looking at a couple of detailing boards, since I have the same problem as drmike.

Yes, the clay bar works magic. I've noticed that using the bare minimum of lubricant produces the fastest results, you want a little friction to allow the clay to "shear" off the contaminants. Just makes sure that you thoroughly wash the surface immediately before using the clay. It takes off the rail dust, and water spots also. It is amazing how smooth your paint is after claying it. But you will be blind shortly after starting on a white truck. Wear some good shades!

Dawn dishwashing liquid supposedly will strip the wax off of your vehicle, a lot of the detailers use it to remove all old wax before they detail a car. I would think that it should also remove wax from the plastic. Some also swear by peanut butter to remove wax from plastic parts (didn't specify chunky or smooth.) The paint prep should also do the trick. I've noticed that my Dupont surface prep is mostly alcohol, so some denatured alcohol should also do the trick. Maybe I'll get some wax on my plastic parts and do a comparison study...

[XAM-D]

I do currently own a detail shop and the best way to get wax off plastic is to pressure wash with hot water and car soap. If wax is tough try using hot water, dawn, and a short hair brush. Also, Armor-All type dressings and a brush will work and shine at the same time. As for fallout or raildust the clay does work sometimes, but not always. I learned a trick from a chemical supplier and shop owner friend of mine from Hawaii. I guess they have alot of problems with fallout because of the rain? You might not want to here this or try this without the know-how and equipment but you can wash the vehicle in ....... wheel acid. PLEASE BE CAREFUL!
1. Try clay first.
2. Do not work in sun.
3. Work in a wash rack, like at a car wash.
4. Dilute the acid, you can always make it
stronger later.
5. Wear rubber gloves and eye protection.
6. Wipe/spray on one small area or pannel at a time.
7. Agitate with a soft sponge until it breaks up.
8. WASH OFF WITH PRESSURE WASHER IMMEDIATELY! No longer than a few minutes on each panel. Repeat if necessary, but should not be.
9. make sure you don't get acid on any plastic, glass, rubber, emblems, etc. Tape them off, or just wash them immediately if acid runs. will not do any damage if washed off quickly.
10. When done polish/wax etc. as explained in previous posts. And yes, Zaino Brothers is a very good product. You can buy clay bars pretty much anywhere these days.
I have done many cars this way and have had no problems. Most of our raildust work comes from my car dealer accounts and we charge a ton to do it. If they only knew how easy it was.
The dealer should cover the cost of removal because my work gets cover under warranty.
Any questions you can E-Mail me.

[seedsfarmmer]

Good post/replys. Got me to wondering though, what is rail-dust? I mean what's going on, making these particals stick more then other dust? Or what is causing the particulant to adhear so hard? What are the particulants? Is it the new soft-curing paint? Does it matter where the rail car is in relation to the engines pulling the rail cars? Soot and smoke from the train engines?
Just wondering. . . .

[Redhawk]

Seedfarmer:

The way it was explained to me, raildust is a fine particulate of steel caused by contact between railroad tracks and the steel wheels riding on them. This product of wear and tear usually is blown up around the railcars by their passage down the track. The particles settle on anything carried on open railcars (cars and trucks) that are not protected by plastic wrapping.

It is difficult to see and sticks to the paint and looks like ordinary dust. The problem comes when the steel particles come into contact with water, during the trip or during the dealer wash down. After awhile they start to rust and it looks like your new ride has measles. It even rusts under a wax job.

Most dealers are aware of this situation and do a thorough job of washing. In some instances, like a three week delay in shipment its too late to stop the rust, but by then it is apparent and the dealer will use a clay bar, a good wash and wax job. If you let it go it can pit your paint.

Most shipped vehicles are now protected during shipment, but some will always slip through.

Hope this helps.

[Alli-max]

ditto on the Zaino Clay bar... Awesome stuff.

Works WONDERS on your windshield as well.