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Thread: Wait to Start signal - dk. blue B3 thin or B10 thick on blue cluster plug?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Charlottesville, Virginia
    Posts
    331

    Post

    I'm almost gone hooking up my new remote starter. Just have a couple of wires I'm not sure about.

    I need to hook up to the "Wait to Start" wire which I understand is the dk. blue on the cluster connecter. Problem is I see two dk. blue wires.

    Do I use the thin one on B3, or the thicker one on B10?

    The other question I have is the factory Disarm Defeat. From what I've been able to find here and on The12volt.com, its a tan/black wire in the passenger kick panel. I was hoping to pick this signal up on one of the BCM connectors. Factory alarm disarm is on the purple connector here (lt.green), so I would think the other one should be as well.

    I do see a lt.tan wire on the purple connector at B4, and a dk.tan wire on A3. Could one of these be the factory disarm defeat?

    Normally when I read tan/black, I'm thinking of a tan wire with a blank stipe, not a solid dark tan one...

    Thanks!

    [ 12-26-2002: Message edited by: c5dura ]</p>
    \'02 Pewter 3500 LT CC LB 4x4 D/A G80<br /><br />Predator v1.11, Warn M15000, BFG 235-85-16 ATs, Crimestopper Remote Start, 2.5\" Front Leveling Cams, Prodigy Brake Controller, Nasta Nerf Bars, UNI Foam Air Filter, Fumoto Valve

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Rowlett, Texas
    Posts
    708

    Post

    c5dura,
    I used a meter to see which of the two was the correct wire. I just turned on the key and looked for voltage and then for it to go away when the light went off. Unfortunately, I am not home with my notes or I could tell you for sure. On the disarm, it is on the BCM. I think the light green is the correct wire, but again, that is from memory. You are correct that a tan/blk is a tan wire with a black strip. For dark tan, it would be labeled dk. tan.
    Sorry I don't have my notes to be sure.
    Later,
    Chris
    02 2500HD LT Dmax/Alli CC 4x4 Lt Pewter, Tan in, Amsoil, transynd, Bilsteins, Amsoil Air Filt, JK 4\" Exht, RollnLock, Rhino Liner, Remote start, alarm, High Idle, SPA DG211, Pred, Mega, Fumoto, Remote oil bypass, XL Tranny cooler, XM, Cell kit

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Charlottesville, Virginia
    Posts
    331

    Post

    OK, it works!!!

    The Wait to Start was the thin dk. blue wire at B3.

    Power lock bus was thin lt. blue on brown plug on BCM one over from the white power unlock bus.

    I went ahead and connected power back up and was able to get my probe on the back side of each connector to confirm.

    I push 'Lock' on the new remote and all 4 doors lock. Then the big moment, I push the 'Start' buttom, and sure enough, as soon as the 'Wait to Start' light goes out, she fires right up!!!

    I had one dry run where it cut off immediately after starting, but once I programmed the PLDATA, no more problem. All you do to program is move a jumper to 'program', then crank the engine just a second. Turn ignition off and move the jumper to 'normal'. Done.

    The only thing I have still not found yet is the factory disarm defeat. Supposedly this is a tan/black wire at the passenger's kick panel?

    Which is the passenger kick panel?

    The little triangular cover by the door? I see no less than two tan/black wires here, but I'm not sure this is the right place to be looking.

    I can't find any other wires of signicifance around the passenger side. The black plastic cover at the very bottom uncovers the blower moter and such, but that's all.

    Removing the whole piece with the glove box didn't reveal much either.

    Anyway, I'm happy. The only thing not working is that when I lock the doors, the factory alarm doesn't arm itself.

    Next I might play with the dome light thing, and look into using the trunk pop for high idle.

    C5Dura

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