ATS OEM Running Board Install -- What a nightmare

[bora]

It took me three hours to install the ATS OEM 90 inch running boards on my truck today.

Being a crew cab, it needs four brackets to hold it in place. The front two brackets on either side go into the factory locations and easily bolt in with an 8 mm bolt.

The rear two brackets require one to drill holes in the stubs next to the pinch weld slots. This of course is not a biggie, BUT then you have to use self tapping screws (two per bracket) to screw the top of the bracket to the chassis.

Well, the two of the supplied self tapping screws tapped themselves out of the hole they tapped. I even pre-drilled a tiny hole to start the screws. I should have known better and used a regular sheetmetal screw, but I didn't and followed instructions (know better than that).

Any how, after two trips to the hardware store, I managed to get all of the screws in there and the running boards once installed, look good.

If you do decide to install running boards, throw away the self tapping screws, pre-drill a 1/8th inch hole and then use a 1/4inch or #14 sheet metal hex-head screw. Avoid the frustration. Also a right angle drill also helps.

I figure if the running board fall out, I can always install nerf bars.

A neat trick (which I thought of too late): Spray paint the brackets to match body color before installing and use touch up paint to paint the screws and bolts to match the body color. I also used some rubber undercoating spray to coat the inner surfaces of the brackets. I don't really need to worry about rust in N. CA, but at least it matches the black of the truck.

Bora

[Colorado Kid]

THe DTA boards came with what they called "nutserts" and I call "rivnuts" for those locations. You drill a hole and then insert a deformable piece through the hole. The "blind" side of the piece expands when you turn it down with an included tool, then you remove the tool and you have some good solid threads right where you need them. You will need a right angle drill with a short bit, or a VERY long bit, cause the frame is not far enough from where you are drilling, but a really long bit can come in over the frame and get it. The rent on a right angle drill was cheaper than the long bit, and easier to find because of the odd size. (25/64").

The cab boards went very quick...less than 2 hours including the 2 trips to the hardware store to get and return the drill.

The bed section boards are another matter...a regular erector set of brakets. Two holes through the frame on each side plus two holes in sheet metal and one hole through the back face of the board. On the passenger side the muffler is right where you'd like to hold the drill to be able to see that you're lining up with the hole in the braket as you drill the frame, so you have to eyeball it from the other side. Figure 2 hours for the driver side and another hour for the passenger side, since you'll be getting better at it by then.

Sure are pretty though, and I don't have to lift the 4 year old in anymore!