Radar Detector Hardwire

[westies]

Anyone with any helpful hints on hardwiring a detector into the key off power supply. I know how to do it but wondering where under the dash or fuse box is the best location to go to. Thanks

[Mike Vonada]

Westies,
Just installed my radar detector last night and I used the green wire upper left in a multiplug in the fuse box area.
I just pulled the fusebox cover and used a test light to find the hot ignition wire.
Good luck and I hope you are installing a Valentine 1 radar detector. If not go to Valentine1.com and check them out. This is the only detector you want to put in.
Mike

[GMFAN70]

My buddy and (his idea)I each installed our Cobra detectors near the rear view mirror using the provided suction cup mount. We then cut the power cable very short, trimmed the wire ends, and inserted them into the connector at the back of the mirror (wedged them in with round toothpicks). Sounds pretty mickey mouse but it works and looks good. Power is switched, but we did lose the fuse in the detector power cable.

[ndamico]

I too swear by the Valentine 1! i have used them for years with great success. I mounted mine on the top of the windshield near the rear view mirror. i supplied power from the overhead console, which goes off a few minutes after leaving my vehicle, and powers on when i unlock the doors. not quite ignition on/off, but damn close enough. i can supply pictures if needed.

enjoy!

[westies]

ndamico.......... I had thought of going to the overhead console. Did you take the console off to do the wiring? If so how does it come down and what wire did you cut into. Last where did you find the ground wire? Thanks

[NutNbutGMC]

Cops have the technology to outperform any "detector" on the market. Sorry, but it's true.

As for the jammers, all U.S. jammers are a passive type jammer, by FCC regulations. Active jammers are not available in the U.S. An active (transmitting)jammer is the only true way to out-smart a radar gun, be it X, K, Ka, or laser.

If anyone so desires, read up here:
http://www.radar.co.nz/usa/usarticle4.html

or here:
http://www.jamradar.com/

or here for the K40:
http://www.radardetector.net/k40_radar_detector.html

Now, don't hold me 100% but I'll account for 99% accurate on the info I have stated. The K-40 claims to be active, but if I'm reading the marketing hype correctly, it "actively" protects the user, but that is a play on words. It is still a passive system. But this is where I may need another opinion or correction in my interpretation of the information that is available. There is nowhere that I can find that the K-40 specifically claims to be active (or a true transmitting signal output). It merely states it "actively" works. That doesn't convince me.
I am not directing this toward anyone in a personal mannered response, I just happened to elaborate with an opening response to your post above. The Valentine is a decent unit, but its (and all other) technology is obsolete to the "instant on". Not much of a way around that, other than an active unit (as stated above). Those units can be bought from any European company. Not illegal across the large pond.
My best bet is on the CB radio, and even at that, most major trucking firms have their machines turned down, so none of them can speed, thus no reliable "Bear Reports". I don't even trust the CB over a 50% reliability factor. These gadgets only tell ya' that you're busted.

PS: No offense to anyone. This is just info I was passing on. I'm neutral on the point. I wish the speed limit was "WFO"......

[ 04-18-2002: Message edited by: NutNbutGMC ]</p>

[SoCalDMAX]

Westies,

I wired my V-1 into the overhead console, there's switched power there for the compass and temp display. I used the sunvisor clip and clipped it to the front edge of the headliner. Wire comes out right next to it. To transfer it, I just slip the clip out of headliner and unplug power cable, leaving it there.

NutNbut,

Thanks for those links, I'm gonna read em and get back to ya with a second opinion, you're probably right about the wording on the K40.

I agree with you for the most part about passive detectors not working with "instant on" radar, under certain conditions. If you're the first in the pack and he hits you with it, you're probably toast. Most of the time, they're shooting each car coming down the road, and I pick up the bounced signal long before they target me.

I've heard they don't get a stable reading if your speed changes, and he *might* not lock it until you stabilize. If you react immediately and slow down, you *might* not get pulled over. Lots of mights in that scenario.

The biggest problem I had over the years with various detectors was trying to determine real threats over false alarms. You could get used to the door opener at the 7-11 you pass every day, but what if a cop's running a radar trap right in front of it?

I bought a Valentine 1 in Nov. based on recommendations and a lot of reading. Since I've had it, I've been hit with radar a few times and laser once. Being able to see what band a contact is in, signal strength, listed in order of threat and which direction truly helps.

In each instance, I immediately slowed and was never even pulled over or warned. even when I picked up the laser, I slowed and thought I was gonna get nailed, but they continued checking the rest of the cars.

A couple of my favorite sayings from operating "the stack" in the Navy -

"In God We Trust, all others we track!"

"From DC to daylight, nobody escapes detection!"

Regards, Steve

[ndamico]

westies,

i don't have onstar. i popped the cover off with a pick where the onstar would go, and found the plug with 3 wires going in, and 2 going out. one of the leads is only powered when the headlights are on, the other is always powered, however it shuts off after 10 minutes of the vehicle being off. i didn't feel like digging for the compass power, but that would probably be a better bet. however the way i did it was quite easy. took less than 10 minutes total, including soldering and heat shrinking the wires.

[mdrag]

I've owned a V1 ever since they first came out - it's been upgraded twice. I lost count of how many times it saved me from a speeding ticket...but I am fully aware of the limitations of any detector and instant on radar and sooner or later GOTTCHA!

As far as laser, there was a short article in one of the reputable car mags a few years ago - I don't recall if it was Automobile, C&D, or R&T. They reported the detection range of laser was reduced sigificantly by running with your headlights and/or foglights on. Vehicles with the lights closer to the center of the vehicle were the hardest for laser to detect, since the LEO aims the laser at the center of the bumper. The headlights interfered with the ability of the laser gun to detect the reflected laser signal - requiring the target to be closer to get a reading. This MAY allow you enough time to react after your laser detector sounds and slow down before the laser gun can get a reading...

I've never read anything else on this effect, but it makes sense. This report was a few years ago, it may be the laser guns have been improved to minimize this effect. Your mileage may vary.

[ 04-19-2002: Message edited by: mdrag ]</p>

[westies]

Thanks all for your replies but I am still confused as to how to get the console off so I can access the wires. I notice a small hole at the front of the console and assume there is a screw of some sort in there. Also where do I find the ground in there? Thanks again

[NeverForget]

I hard wired my Valentine One in only a few minutes. I have the unit suction cupped to the windshield at the very top and just to the left of center. The phone/power cord is routed just inside the header and down the front windshield pillar. (I have the concealed display on top of the steering column, but it is irrelevant to your wiring.) You can easily access power and a ground thru the dash panel fuse box which is visible just inside the driver door on the end of the dash. (You really should invest in a digital volt meter.) If you're still having trouble, I'll take a look at my fuse panel & tell you where I tapped in. Good luck.

[Smallfire]

I've tapped into the RAP#2 fuse in the driver's side door fuse box. It's right below the Radio fuse, and it's ACC switched.

[txguppy]

Hey Westies,
I too wired my PhantomII detector/jammer into the console. All you have to do is pop-off the 2"x5" cover just in front of the map lights. I used a thin bladed scrwedriver and wiggled the cover plate off. Work all the corners until it releases. There is a hot wire(2, I think) and a ground wire for the map lights. The power shuts-off after 10 mins or so.
Note: if you have an aftermarket alarm that senses voltage changes, it may detect the powering off and activate the alarm. Mine does.
Anyway, hope this answers your question.

TXGUPPY

'01 GMC 2500HD SLT D/A 4X4 Pewter/Pewter
Roll Top, Ranch Hand Grill Guard,Steelhorse
Running Boards,K&N,Amsoil,Fumoto,+more. [img]smile.gif[/img] [img]smile.gif[/img]

[pushpole]

To access the console remove the screw on the leading edge. Work your fingers between the console and the overhead towards the trailing edge. When you can't get your fingers any closer to the trailing edge pull straight down to release the clips. There's at least a foot of play in the wiring once you get it loose. The cubby hole on my console (no On-Star) is welded in place and cannot be removed without dropping the overheade console.

[ 04-30-2002: Message edited by: pushpole ]</p>

[TxDoc]

I let a relative have my current radar detector for a while. I was digging around and found my Valentine One, circa early 1990, first edition. I did not think there would be an update, but put my serial number in anyway. To my surprise, there was an update. I have sent it in and essentially will end up with the newest version for $179.00. That is pretty good service for something that is 13 years old and and a new one is $400.00.