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Thread: Catalytic Converter Question?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Tucson, AZ
    Posts
    20

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    Im considering gutting my converter, My question is this, How have any of you gone about doing this? I have been under the truck to inspect and determine the best possible method but not sure if the inside media is redily accessible do to the bends in the pipe before and after the actual converter canister. Seems like GM has considered this tactic and has put into play many factors to discourage this . Another question is, if I am able to access the inside, how tough is the media? will it shatter and fall out redily or is it tougher than I think?
    My next option to consider is just cutting the pipe before and after the converter and go at it this way.The only problem with that is refitting it back into place with the very small amout of pipe there is to work with.
    Would love to hear from anybody who has overcome these issues... Thanks in advance Simzie
    2008 Chevy 2500HD Crew Cab D/A...replaced my 98 Gmc 2500 6.5...Wow what a difference!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Washington D.C. area
    Posts
    235

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    I can't help you with your question really, but can say that removing the cat altogether does free up the exhaust a lot. I installed a Kennedy 3 1/2" exhaust system and left the cat out. That combination (along with ceramic crosover pipe) made a big difference in seat of the pants acceleration. My state does not even do a visual inspection on diesels emissions. I know CT does require emissions tests on diesels, but do they visually verify that t he cat is there?
    1995 Chev K2500 6.5L TD X-cab, LB. Kennedy FSD,Cooling Mods,exhaust. 118,000 miles<br />2003 K1500 LT Suburban, gas. Gave up on Duramax suburban. Not happy about it.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Tucson, AZ
    Posts
    20

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    The state of Connecticut is still in the process of implementing a new emmision inspection. From what I understand OBII system vehicles are just going to be a quick deal by simply plugging into the access port under the dash to verify all emmision components are within spec.. But until this new inspection system is up and running, and i know what to expect( at time of inspection) I feel it safer to leave all signs of a factory emmsion system rather to learn the hard way.Figuring if the see a converter, then it must be doing what its suppose to, also no tailpipe sniff test will be required of a OB II system..more to my benefit I hope
    2008 Chevy 2500HD Crew Cab D/A...replaced my 98 Gmc 2500 6.5...Wow what a difference!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Catskill Mtns.N.Y. U.S.A.
    Posts
    154

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    This is how you gut the cat.
    If you plan on useing the rear pipe off the cat simply, sawsall the pipe off from the rear cat/pipe weld by a couple of inches so you can sleave clamp it back to gether when your done. Now the rear of the cat media is exposed. Go buy yourself a 2 1/8th or larger wood Forestner boring bit. also get a 18" extention for the bit to fit in a slow speed drill. You will need a dust mask also. carfully bore the media out through the center so the media out to the sides will not become separated. If you want to use a 3" exit pipe you should hack saw the rear pipe off just into the tapered part of the cat foward of the weld. then perforate the 3" pipe to be sild into the cat all the way through the bored hole to the front and have the new 3" pipe rewelded almost were the original weld was . You will need to keep chewing at the sides of the media untill the hole is large enough for the 3" pipe . The bit makes fast work of the cat media. This mod is called a resonator. After you bore the media the bit will be toast. unless you go to grizzly.com and buy the carbide one they have.Good luck

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Catskill Mtns.N.Y. U.S.A.
    Posts
    154

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    Your Welcome...

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Tucson, AZ
    Posts
    20

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    thanks Triggerman, Just got the post...currently vacationing in the carolina's...will try when
    I return home [img]smile.gif[/img]
    2008 Chevy 2500HD Crew Cab D/A...replaced my 98 Gmc 2500 6.5...Wow what a difference!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    NE CT
    Posts
    506

    Post

    Word on the street is ..a piece of rebar and a 3# hammer works pretty adequately (so I'm told)
    1996 K1500 6.5, 1984 K5 6.2 Banks both \"Stock\" (tilting hand side-side like Sammy Davis in Cannonball Run)<br /><br />Got Boost?

  8. #8
    sturgeon-phish Guest

    Post

    The rebar and hammer was my method because I did not want to trash one of my drill bits. I unbolted the converter at the flange, cut the cat off the outlet pipe and sleeved a stub pipe over the pipe. EASY to do, BIG difference.

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