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Thread: When pulling drums on full floater, what all should I replace?

  1. #21
    MikeC Guest

    Post

    The hub and drum are just friction fit together with a little rust for glue

    One of mine came off with a 3lb persuader, the other took a little heat and the same hammer, oops I mean gentle drum removal device.

    As a reminder, the 3/4 ton diesels take 1 ton parts in the rear. What this means is you need the 3 1/2" wide shoes, not the 2 1/2" wide ones.

    Some parts counters seem to be aware but others aren't.

    Mike

  2. #22
    catmandoo Guest

    Post

    yep torch will do it,what i've found is as you heat it will pop when it does its ready.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Milton, MA
    Posts
    214

    Post

    Perhaps we should try to find out if there's a rule on what GM did with these trucks. I am certain that on my '97 the hub/drum was an assembly which was connected by the lug studs (which were pressed through both the hub and drum) and that there is no way to get the drums off without removing the axle and hub. I am running rear discs now... they're also attached to the hubs by the studs which are pressed through both. Anyone know why we all seem to have different results?
    -Chris
    '97 K2500HD 6.5TD 5-speed ex-cab SB
    XM Satellite radio/Alpine CDA-9835
    BETA FSD Cooler
    Dual Optima Red-Tops
    Dr.Lee\'s battery terminal mods
    Mobil 1 F/R diffs
    Powertrax Lock-Right in the rear
    TSM 14-bolt FF rear-disc conversion
    Front PowerSlot rotors/Hawk Carbon-Metallic pads
    Braided Stainless flex lines
    3.5" JK exhaust, boost mod, and guages (Sounds like a KW )

    '96 Impala SS - 9.5"/2800 stall Edge Converter, shift kit, Bryan Herter OBDI reprogram, Hooker cat-back (T-56 6-speed waiting to be installed)

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    119

    Post

    The 14 bolt FF in my 1984 takes a socket similar to the older front hub sockets (with 4 prongs), but the socket I needed has 6 prongs. I transplanted this axle from a 1979 Chevy though... and GM may have changed what it takes over the years.

  5. #25
    MikeC Guest

    Post

    Quack,

    I'm not sure because my tools are at home, but I think the socket I used was six point. I do know that if it had rounded pins instead of the square teeth it would have been easier to use. It now has rounded pins

    Mike

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    30

    Post

    I think mine just might come off when I put the torch to 'em. I can tell that the studs are not press fit through the holes in the drum because the holes in the drum are slightly larger than the studs.

    I'm excited now; I get to save some labor AND play with fire! Thanks for everyone's input. I'll report back once I get the job done.
    Michael Keith<br />Houston, TX<br />\'95 C2500 Suburban 6.5

  7. #27
    moondoggie Guest

    Post

    Good Day!

    Guess I pulled the axles for no reason. Looks like I paid the moron tax again.

    Blessings!

    Brian Johnson #5044

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Cincinnati, OH
    Posts
    132

    Post

    GM did the 14 bolt FF both ways, some you have to pull the axles and hubs/drum and others the drum slides off the hub w/o removal of the axle. If you have to pull the axles then the lugs are pressed in and hold the drum to the hub. I'm sure w/research there is a break down on the yrs each were used. On my 92 I have to pull the axles.
    92 GMC std cab C2500, Kennedy high flow injectors,port matched, Banks exhaust & gauges, intercooler, 97 cooling, Turbo Master.A means for a Toy

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