Is a play of 1/8th turn in the steering wheel "normal"

[c5dura]

I had my steering box replaced at 13k after the seal went bad a second time. There is a lot more play in this new box that the original.

Also, when turning on rough roads and sometimes also when going strait, there is a definite shutter/rattle. I have read all about the infamous steering rattle on this board and how bearing kit 26099860 will fix it (I'm pretty sure my box has code HD or CB on it).

I was due for new tires (truck got 31k on it) and prior to having this done, I took the service manager for a ride and demonstrated the steering rattle to him as I was able to make it happen at will with the worn out tires and rotors that needed turning. The whole truck would start to rattle, and continue to do so even after I got off the brake.

They put 6 news tires on (BFG 235-85-16 as before) and turned the rotors. I can no longer make the steering rattle occur at will, but I'm still noticing the rattle when going over rought roads and/or turning. It will even happen sometimes going down the Interstate at 74 mph.

However, it is not as severe as before. But what really bugs me is that when I'm riding down the Interstate in the left lane, I have to keep the steering wheel about 1/8 turn to the right in order to stay in the lane. When I'm in the right lane, the steering wheel points straight ahead when I stay in my lane. (yes, they did an alignment as well when they replaced the tires/turned the rotors).

So as far as I'm concerned, the original problem has not been solved. Turning the rotors just eliminated the easy way to induce the rattle.

The manager tells me that these trucks all have some play in the steering and that I should be happy to only have 1/8 of a turn worth of play.

I'm just not buying it, but before I make a scene at the dealer, I was wondering if anyone else are experiencing the same problem and if this is "normal" or not.

I should also mention that they replaced my idler arm under warranty when I first complained about this 4 months ago. It didn't make a bit of a difference.

None of my other vehicles has this much play, so I don't understand why I should accept it in my $48k truck.

Does the service manual mention anything about acceptable steering wheel play?

I'm afraid all my front end components are worn out and the dealer doesn't want to deal with replacing them to fix the sloppiness until I'm out of warrany in 5000 miles.

[MTTwister]

Alignment shops used to do the alignment to allow for the crown in the road - ie: putting in a slight pull to the left to counter act the crown in the highway. When you're in the right lane, you would then have to be forcing it to the right, as the slope away from the center line, as well as the "crown alignment" would be drifting you to the left.
I thought that was "old" alignment technology" but maybe not... Something to consider.

re slop - shouldn't there be an adjustment screw with a lock-nut to take the slop out? ( or is that old techn-o stuff too?) [img]smile.gif[/img]

[c5dura]

Right, I realize the crown is the reason why I have to point the truck towards the middle of the road in order to keep ir from going in the ditch.

If I ride in the middle of the road, on top of the crown, the truck goes straight, I can take my hands off the wheel and the truck goes straight. In other words, the alignment is correct.

The issue is that there appears to be 1/8 of a turn worth of slop in the front end when the truck "leans" to the left. And I believe this slop comes from the steering box.

I'll try tightening the bolt on the steering box 1/4 turn to see if it makes a difference.

[JimWilson]

Originally posted by c5dura:
I'll try tightening the bolt on the steering box 1/4 turn to see if it makes a difference.

This made a difference with the play I had in the front end of my truck, but I wasn't driving down the road looking like I was always making a turn (which it sounds like you are).

But be forewarned; don't tighten the steering box more then a 1/4 of a turn. I had what I considered very sloppy steering, and a 1/4 of a turn might be too much of an adjustment. A little goes a long way in this case.

[Cliffee]

Funny how many people run into this same problem. I had mine replaced at 10k for a leak and woe and behold I had play that was never there before. The dealer replaced the box again and still play. After comparing my truck to several new ones on the dealer lot they replaced it with one from a new truck on the lot and the play was gone. It appears that the off the shelf gearboxes are not nearly the quality of the production ones. From what I'm told the replacement boxes are mostly made in Mexico. You need to be persistent with you're dealer and get this addressed. I found it very difficult and dangerous, especially when towing. On the freeway the truck would wander because of the play.

[Mark Heiken]

When my box was replaced to fix the rattle (it didn't) I too had a lot of play. Dealer said it was normal and sadly enough it seems to be. Any way a friend who is an alignment tech got the play out with the adjustment. Took way more that a 1/4 turn though.

[dave p]

mine has been sloppy from day 1. i had the bearing update replaced in the steering box and it helped about half. its better but more slop than my 98 chev truck. at 80 its not bad, but 50 or below its sloppy. this is my last chevrolet. 40 service calls under warranty. dave p

[Cliffee]

Any dealer that tells you this is normal request he go with you for test ride in a brand new truck to compare. Garunteed it will not have any play. Once I took the ride with my dealers service manager it was very obvious and he then knew what to shoot for.
Read my previous email for my outcome!!!

[jared]

I looked for the adjustment screw and couldn't find it. Could anybody help.

[Mark Heiken]

The adjustment screw is on top of the box. It's hard to get to on these rigs. I dropped the panel that covers the tie rod. Not too bad to reach up and find it then. Screw has an allen head with a lock nut.

[Kennedy]

Just for grins, grab the drag link out on the "horn" and see if it rotates.

It looks like this: __----------__

You should not get any upward or downward movement. Mine moved excessively. On the hoist at full droop, we measured 2" of toe variation using a pipe wrench to turn it both ways.

New Idler arm (Moog) installed has it reduced to 5/8" variance.

My pitman arm was equally as bad and now replaced (Moog) so all is as good as can be with OE setup...

[ 07-20-2004, 12:49 PM: Message edited by: kennedy ]