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Thread: Drilled Brake Rotors

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Atascadero, Ca
    Posts
    9

    Post

    While I had a Banks engine brake on my recently "totalled" 2003 2500HD D/A, I don't want to add one to my new truck until I have more experience with the engine, ie I don't want to void the warranty just yet.

    Anyway, a friend suggested I switch to drilled disc brake rotors to improve braking overall and most importantly with my 5th wheel heading done those long mountain downgrades.

    I'd appreciate any info on the effectiveness of this upgrade.
    2003 GMC D/A 2500HD SB 4x4, Pewter, Banks Stinger, pulling a 13K Alpenlite 5th wheel nearly full time.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    Collegeville, Pa
    Posts
    1,479

    Smile

    I have been using the cross-drilled front brake rotors on my 95 for over 4 years. I did not noticed much better stopping, but seems to cool the rotors better. I do think its somewhat better than what I had. They do not show any wrappage and I'm on my 3rd set of pads. I only removed the outer rust-crust between pads, never had to have them turned, and they are still true. You have a completely better brake sytem than what we have on the older C-K units of the 90's. I think you should be fine with what you have. If they get hot, and wrap, then I'd replace them. [img]smile.gif[/img]
    Tom McCauley (DP Member #513)
    "Tankers-ToyII" Loaded 05 D/A K-3500 CC, SRW. Deep pan on Allison w/Transyn. Edge Juice w/attitude, 4" Kennedy exhaust, 98 Gal. Transfer-Flow cross bed fuel tank, Leer 100XQ bed cap. Reese 14,000lb class V hitch w/ dual cam HP sway control. Tow 34ft. 32FKD Holiday Rambler travel trailer. GCW 20,360lbs

  3. #3
    mdadgar Guest

    Post

    Skip the drilled brake rotors. They do not improve cooling, they remove rotor mass (so you have less heatsink material to begin with and therefore less brake system heat capacity), and most importantly they WILL crack around the drill holes. And then you need to replace them.

    If you think you have brake cooling issues, get some 3" silicon hose (the orange stuff) from Pegasus Racing or Racers Wholesale (or a similar shop) and fashion some brake ducts that guide cooling air into the CENTER of the rotor. The flow path is center of the rotor and out through the holes in the rotor edge.

    However, easily the biggest factor in your brake system is the pads. Personally, I really dislike the factory pads. I replaced them with a set of Hawk HP SuperDuty pads from Tire Rack. Big improvement.

    - Mark
    '94 BMW 325is race car, ducted brakes, race pads, stock rotors

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    261

    Post

    Another vote for upgrading your pads. I used to race on the OEM factory pads and when the rules finally allowed us to using 'racing' pads, it was a significant improvement. There are different pads and they vary by the friction coefficient. Take a look at http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/hawk1.htm and it will give you some idea of what you're dealing with. And if you haven't already found out, these upgraded pads with be a bit higher in cost than oem replacement.
    2001 Torreador Red 2500HD GMC Sierra Ext Cab Longbed. 6.0L 4x4. Deep Tinted Glass with Defogger. Weathertech Ventvisors. Sony Xplod 6.5 front speakers. 8\" Bazooka waiting to be installed.

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