Results 1 to 12 of 12

Thread: Oil pan removal

  1. #1

    Default Oil pan removal

    I was just wondering if it is possible to sneak the oil pan out on a 97 1500 with 4wd. I seemed to have developed a nasty oil leak where the dip stick enters the pan. I don't know if there is much that can be done other than replacing the pan. If anyone has had any experiences with this problem or the pan removal in the truck I would love to hear about it. Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,576

    Arrow

    There shouldn't be any reason to remove the pan, if you know for sure the leak is the dipstick tube. The tube can be removed/replaced without removing the pan. While it isn't common, they can leak. If you don't have some obvious damage (like a dent in the pan), I'd suggest pulling the tube and checking/replacing the seal.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  3. #3

    Default

    this doesn't appear to be the tube but rather where the tube mount is spot welded to the pan. It is a diamond or triangle shape with rolled edges. It looks the oil is coming from between the small plate and the pan. I am not sure why but it started yesterday on a 600 mile trip and i didn't notice until this morning but the entire underneath the truck is covered. There is still a little bit on the dipstick but i think it was almost a close one.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,576

    Arrow

    While it is possible the boss has cracked, or separated from the pan, I'd still pursue the dipstick tube. They can crack where they meet the boss. Oil leaks have a way of migrating away from their source, misleading diagnostics. In either case, you may get away with a metalic putty repair (J-B Weld), rather than a complete pan replacement. Although I'm a firm believer of doing it right, sometimes the cost/effort exceeds the easy way out.

    The dipstick boss is above the oil level. Is it possible you got overfilled? Overfilling can cause all kinds of problems, including new, spontaneous leaks.

    You can isolate the leak. Clean the area with a good degreaser, like simple Green. Have someone put some shop air pressure (like <10 PSI) into the oil fill tube and watch the dipstick. If you don't see any leakage, it may be above the oil level. Add some oil until you see a leak (you can always remove oil to correct the level later). I suggest checking with engine off, as vibrations can skew your results.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  5. #5

    Default

    thanks for the tips i will pull the tube and get a better look. Hope thats the problem because it made a huge mess.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Little Neck,NY,USA
    Posts
    574

    Default

    Check out the thread by Additive, Oil Leak- suspect oil cooler lines.
    Could possibly be the oil cooler lines, the oil dipstick is in the same area.
    William

    97 Chevy Tahoe 2Dr 6.5 Kennedy Exhaust Pipes w/Homemade Resonator and Flowmaster Muffler, Turbo Tech intercooler and Kennedy/Westers computer
    01 Sunline 2363 Travel Trailer

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2000
    Location
    Arlington,MA U.S.
    Posts
    1,666

    Default

    I had a leak on the tube in my 98 and a new O ring solved it.
    1998 6.5 2500 4X4 dynatrac pro 60, ARB, 35"BFG's
    06 D Max Express 5"MBRP EFI live

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    SC
    Posts
    939

    Default

    I was doing my clutch and replaced rear main seal and oil pan gasket while it was down. Lost the little oring for the dipstick but it was flattened and hardended some anyway. I found a replacement at local Ace hardware.

    The pan can come off but you have to loosen the front differential drop it and or pivot it away. Then work the pan out best you can. Its not easy but doable. The windage tray wants to catch the oil pump pickup so you have to work it out just so. I had my trans off but have heard others have done it by itself.

    I might clean the area and maybe JB weld or other if the gasket looks good and it looks like you can fix it that way.

    Not that I know much but never really heard of it failing that way is crankcase developing pressure CDR ok ???
    97 5spd K2500 Ext Cab short Bed ~160K miles.
    TM, 3" downpipe & 4" exhaust, remote FSD, remote oilfilter, Gauges: EGT, Boost, Fuel Pressure, B&W Gooseneck Turnover ball, Prodigy Brake Controller. Hi-Temp Hydraulic Oil Cooler Lines.

  9. #9

    Default

    Well the o-ring was dried up and brittle so I will fill the oil and check the fuel and go for a drive. I just cannot believe the amount of oil that has come out of there especially if it is below the oil level. maybe my crankcase has a recent increase in pressure. uh oh

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,576

    Arrow

    Quote Originally Posted by 6 and 1/2 liters
    Well the o-ring was dried up and brittle so I will fill the oil and check the fuel and go for a drive. I just cannot believe the amount of oil that has come out of there especially if it is below the oil level. maybe my crankcase has a recent increase in pressure. uh oh
    The rear main is usually the first to give up when crankcase pressures hit the roof. I'd suggest checking/replacing the CDR. If it plugs up, or failes closed, it will trap pressure. Perhaps the poor condition of the O-ring allowed a minimal pressure rise to push out some oil.

    The boss is below the oil level. However, when the engine is running, there's no telling where the oil goes in the sump, with all that stuff moving around inside. Your situation isn't unique, and is typical for a failed tube seal. Be optimistic about it.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,294

    Default

    If your leak is the tube boss and not the tube oring itself, just wash the area well with brake clean and dry with air. JB weld the sucker areound the outer edge of the boss and let sit over night. Done deal. Beats pulling the pan

  12. #12

    Default

    well so far so good. I have not put the truck to any serious heat yet but there seems to be no visible signs of leakage. I did an oil change since the oil level was low and got about 4 liters out of it and it holds 7. So you can imagine what the truck looks like with 3 liters of black diesel oil sprayed all over underneath.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •