Fuel lines on the 6.5 and the dipstick tube
This is to address the poor design of the fuel lines that come up the back of the engine and connect to the fuel filter as well as connect to the fuel return pipe.
When I removed the engine some weeks ago they were obnoxious to get loose as they mount to a stud on the bellhousing bolts. The LOCK nuts would not come loose but instead the bolt came loose in the bellhousing creating a real P-I-T-A.
I thought about this debacle for some time and desided to reroute the lines.
I came up with a nice clean way that uses the original lines less the top bracket.
First you cut the lines off about 1-1/2" down from the bend at the top so the lines then are straight at the top end. A ferrul fitting can be tightened on and then removed leaving a nice bump to hold a new length of hose.
I next pulled the driver side carpet up and drilled a hole in the floor pan about 2" inside of the frame rail right over the shifter shaft crank assembly.
A small rebend of the hose pipes at the second bracket will allow them to circle nicely around under the floor and extend the end pipes up the frame rail under the steering column.
Two rubber covered straps of the right size with one on either side of the hole drilled in the floor will allow a 1" long 1/4" bolt to fasten the hoses to the floor pan.
You can now route the hoses up the firewall and use the threaded end of one 6mm bolt that protrudes from the firewall on the fender side and slightly below the steering column to fasten your hose extentions to the firewall.
I used the fuel injection type hose that it sturdier than regular fuel line.
The lines can be routed right behind the accumulator on the brake booster.
Now the lines on the engine can be replaced with similar hose and run up and over the bracket that the turbo solenoid mounts on at the left rear of the engine.
I drilled out an extra hole that was there to 1/4" and then used the rubber covered straps to fasten the two lines there with about 2" of line over the valve cover. I installed pushlock swivels that go from 5/16 and 3/8 hose to flare and this allowed for a clean install.
One can deviate to suit what you have available but this beats the fight to get those lines back behind the engine when doing an overhaul..
Cleans up the area and eliminates the need for the nasty stud top bolts that take up so much room making it tough to get a wrench in the area to work.
I kept the bottom stud topped bolts as they are easy to get to and are needed to hold some things.
I understand why the factory did what they did as it was easy with the body off at the factory level to install everything.
The issue I have is the poor soul in the field that has to work on this is just plain in a world of hurt.
It took me over an hour to get one of the lock nuts off and a total of almost 2 hours to get those two bolts out of the bellhousing so I could proceed.
Well Im here to tell ya it aint gonna be a problem now. :0)
I also had to fight the tranny dipstick bracket as it too is installed when the engine and stuff are out in the open.
You can't get the dipstick tube up off the rear bolt it mounts too as there is not a slot in the bracket and the dipstick will not move far enough.
I took the dipstick out and replaced the rubber seal at the tranny.
I cut the bracket off where it is spot welded on and tossed that in the can.
I built a new bracket from 1/8 X 3/4 flat bar and located the bolt hole.
I bent the piece so it will lay right and run up the dipstick tube. After forming the flat bar with a small hammer so it fits the contour of the tube I can fasten both together with a heater hose clamp.
Clean, simple and easy to reinstall the engine.
I understand the need for speed at the factory level but the lowlife engineer that desingned this crap should be made to demonstrate exactly how to work on it and provide his own box of bandaids too.
I would gladly pay a few hundred dollars more for a rig that could be worked on.
I have built a few kit cars and easy to get to and access to repair is a number one in my book.
Detroit always hides the stuff you need to service regularly. The fuel filter could easily be mounted on the fender well so real folks could get to it.
Heck they could toss that worthless antilock brake system in the corner and then there would be room for a real fuel filter and some room left over.
I have the possibilty of getting a 95 tahoe diesel that has a bad pump???
just quit one day.
I hate this electronic stuff. If I get it I am going to put in a DB2 and replace the tranny with a well built 700R with no computers and have a real rig me thinks.
This truck has lost 3 trannies in less than 100K and the pump/ driver problems have driven the owner to drink. The truck has sat in his garage for 3 years now "Dead"
It turns over but no fire or smoke.
A 700 tranny and a DB2 along with a few hours of tinkering to clean up the wiring mess and this will be a sweeeeeeeeeeeet little truck
Just thought I would share this stuff about the lines and such.
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