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Thread: No Oil Pressure After Oil Change (long post explaining my proceeder.)

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
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    Santa Cruz Mountains, CA
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    304

    Unhappy No Oil Pressure After Oil Change (long post explaining my proceeder.)

    I did the normal thing for me when it comes to changing my oil. Got home from work let the truck sit for about half an hour as to not burn my self on the exhaust. Started draining the oil out of the pan and then took the old filter off with my strap wrench. Let the truck sit a while for me this is usually over night because after eating dinner I don't want to work on my truck anymore. Next morning cleaned sealing area around oil filter base (made sure no old gasket) put drain pan plug back in. Filled new oil filter with oil and installed in truck. Put a quart or oil from gallon container in to quart sized oil container then put container behind my seat. Then proceed to put what was left in two gallon containers in my engine and put oil cap on. Checked level of oil to confirm I actually put enough in to get it started. Pulled pink wire from injection pump (actually did that at beginning of changing oil). Cranked engine for two 15 second intervals with about a minute thirty in between. Hooked up pink to injection pump got in cab did glow cycle and started engine wait the normal 5 to 20 seconds the oil gauge takes to read after oil change and no pressure; waited another 30 to 45 seconds listening closely to engine for abnormal sounds didn't hear any shut truck off after time elapsed. Got out checked for leaks non to be found, check for leaks on mechanical gauge non to be found. Got back in truck let glow plugs cycle started engine waited about a minute closely listening to engine still no oil pressure, became uncomfortable letting engine run shut it off. Came in the house and started a post.

    Questions:
    •1982 GMC K2500 Cummins 4bt/NV4500/NP208

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
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    CA
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    13,597

    Arrow

    Wow. That would make me very concerned as well.

    Noises. It's hard to tell with a Diesel. Especially if your lifters are healthy.

    The pump shouldn't "lose prime". It's a positive displacement gear type pump, and will pump as long as it's lubricated (like with previous oil). New pumps will self prime very quickly, even when dry.

    New oil filter. Most likely suspect. It's possible it didn't receive all the needed attention at manufacture. An anti-drainback or bypass valve could be stuck or dislodged.

    I suggest installing a mechanical gage and cranking like you do with the FSS disconnected. If no pressure, replace the oil filter. Or, you could do the filter first, then check for IP gage pressure. If still no pressure, well, that's another can o' worms. Do the diagnostic with the gage and new filter first.

    Good luck!
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Denville,New Jersey
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    424

    Default Another brand of filter...

    I have never had it happen myself ,but how about try a new filter?30 or 45 seconds at a time at idle wont hurt an engine,but you will hear it knocking if it has no oil presure.Is it? Maybe you have a bad gauge?
    94 Chev Blazer, 6.5TD, 3.42, 4WD,Gear drive,,Remote FSD behind drivers headlight,,Mobil 1 in difs and trans,Rotella 30W, Over a quarter of a million miles !! Member -1.94 club.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
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    Santa Cruz Mountains, CA
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    Default

    No there isn't any noise while it is running. The filter is a napa gold 1060 or something like that. I'm going to go down town and buy another oil gauge and try the gauge first then the filter. Even though the filter is cheaper and I have ten of them around. Sadly enough eaiser to replace gauge (smaller mess).

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
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    Lubbock TX, USA
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    Default

    I'd be curious if the new oil filter is full of oil. The filter sits vertically, so it will stay full of oil.

    Do you fill the filter full of oil before starting, or just lube the seal then install dry? Either way works, I prefer to fill the filter if possible before installation (only possible on engines with filter facing vertically).

    The statement above is completly accurate, no need to prime an oil pump, they do it rather quickly.

    It's possible that your gauge has died. Where do you get your oil pressure reading from? Mechanical gauges usually have a plastic pressure line, it's possible for this to become kinked or pinched for example, so examine the line and the gauge when swapping reading devices.

    Do you have an electric oil pressure gauge as per the factory?

    lastly, before you give up. Might try overfilling the crankcase with one extra quart, so that you have 8 quarts of oil in the crankcase. Know someone on here that ended up having a cracked oil pump pickup tube, overfilling the crankcase with oil revealed the crack, because he got oil pressure when the oil covered the crack...

    Keep us posted.

    As per your technique. No need to drain overnight, if anything it's a source for dirt (engines worst enemy) to enter the oil system with an open oil filter housing and or missing drain plug.
    1982 C10 SCSWB 6.5TD, mods too extensive to list. (13.69 1/4 mile @94.6 MPH) RACE TRUCK
    1982 C10 SCSWB 6.2NA, 2.73 700
    1986 C10 SCLWB 6.2TD 3.73 700
    1989 V20 SUB 6.2NA, 3.73 400
    1994 G20 VAN 6.5NA, 3.42 60E
    1994 K20LD ECSWB 6.5TD, 3.42 80E
    1995 K20 SUB 6.5TD, Wrecked, ran into by stupid teen.
    1995 C3500HD DRW 6.5TD, 12' Flatbed 5.13 80E
    1995 C3500HD DRW 6.5TD, 18' Rollback Wrecker 4.63 80E
    1994 C20HD ECLWB 6.5TD 3.73 80E Wifes Truck.
    1995 C20LD ECSWB 6.5TD 3.73 80E
    1995 K20LD SCLWB 6.5TD 3.73 80E
    1996 K30 DRW 6.5TD 4.10 80E
    1997 C10 Tahoe 2Door 2WD 5.7L to 6.5 Conversion Underway

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
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    Santa Cruz Mountains, CA
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by john8662
    I'd be curious if the new oil filter is full of oil. The filter sits vertically, so it will stay full of oil.

    Do you fill the filter full of oil before starting, or just lube the seal then install dry? Either way works, I prefer to fill the filter if possible before installation (only possible on engines with filter facing vertically).
    Always fill the filter before install, so I expect there to still be oil in it.

    Quote Originally Posted by john8662
    It's possible that your gauge has died. Where do you get your oil pressure reading from? Mechanical gauges usually have a plastic pressure line, it's possible for this to become kinked or pinched for example, so examine the line and the gauge when swapping reading devices.
    Do you have an electric oil pressure gauge as per the factory?
    Never trusted the factory gauge so installed a mechanical one, the source being where the old factory sender was. I did check the plastic line for cracks and kinks.

    Quote Originally Posted by john8662
    As per your technique. No need to drain overnight, if anything it's a source for dirt (engines worst enemy) to enter the oil system with an open oil filter housing and or missing drain plug.
    Out of curiosity how long do you drain your oil and feel you got the majority of it out? My truck is in my garage, but by no means is it dirt free, but I make a point of doing no activities in it while the oil is draining; mainly because the biggest activity I do in my garage is weld and grind metal and can't imagine that combination going well together.

    I just got back from down town and bought another mechanical gauge to try first, but my stomach says it time to eat. So I will post again in about an hour.

  7. #7
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wthif
    Out of curiosity how long do you drain your oil and feel you got the majority of it out?
    Usually takes about 5 minutes of draining. I drain the oil until i start to get the drip verses the fine stream of oil, once it's dripping, it's done, or a very very thin stream.

    You'll never get it all out!

    I usually pull the oil filter while underneath, because it's no fun getting in and out. I pull the oil filter with the new one ready to go, let it drain a little, then wipe the sealing surface on the block thourally, then install new filter with pan still draining. I then wait for the pan to get nearly drained, install plug, tighten plug, go above and fill 'er up.

    I also don't bother priming the oil system, as it still seems to take the 20 or less seconds for the oil system to prime to make pressure anyways.

    You asked

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Ottawa, Ontario
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    786

    Default

    This happened to me a while back after I did the install of my new engine. Turned out that the oil cooler lines were the culprit. Remove the top line and crank engine until you get oil out of the line. Re-connect and crank again. Pressure will build again within 30 seconds.

    Maybe by leaving overnight your lines drained and this caused the problem.

    Just a thought

    Bill
    91 Buick Roadmaster/Avant 6.2 NA conversion (gone but not forgotten)
    94 Cadillac Fleetwood (sold)
    08 Aerolight 23TT
    06 Vortec Max Silverado CC SB (sold)
    10 Avalanche (electronic quagmire but love the truck)

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Santa Cruz Mountains, CA
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    304

    Default What are the odds

    I have no clue what the odds are of having the mechanical gauge go out during an oil change, but I replaced the gauge with an el chepo unit for about ten bucks and my pressure is back where it belongs. I will eventually replace it with one that I trust farther than I can drive for the amount of money it costs . Right now I just want to know I have pressure.

    For those of you who did reply to my post I welcome you for a beer and or a BBQ dinner if you are ever in town or at the very least a BS session. Those of you who didn't reply no BS session for you . I have had to fix a lot of things on my truck (much more major than this), but this is by far the most scarest thing that happened, just glad it wasn't isn't thing major.

    P.S." Also take note of the post times between this one and my last. That time included driving my truck 2 miles. I give better estimates than my mechanic."

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Sun City AZ
    Posts
    695

    Default Dang! too late for the Beer and BS?

    I really , really wanted to add something useful here, it's just that.....
    OOps sold my "baby" - 96 K-2500 6.5TD - ~047,068mi, Isspro's Boost, Pyro, and Tranny temp; Heath Plate Remote mounted FSD; Amsoil Fluids and Air; Bilsteins, BD Down Pipe-Gutted CAT-& B-D'ized 3.5 Kennedy exhaust; '97 cooling upgrade; CAD upgrade; new IP at 34,700 under warranty; Homemade: Boost fooler, Hi/Lo idle, OPS relay, TCC Lockup ( TFT), Glow extender for AC60's, & "GMC H..'s" 6 position Shift modifier .

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    Denville,New Jersey
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    Default No, since your too late....

    You can come, but since your late you have to bring the beer!
    94 Chev Blazer, 6.5TD, 3.42, 4WD,Gear drive,,Remote FSD behind drivers headlight,,Mobil 1 in difs and trans,Rotella 30W, Over a quarter of a million miles !! Member -1.94 club.

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