Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 26

Thread: 700R4 - essential to buy a newer case?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    Omaha, NE
    Posts
    162

    Default 700R4 - essential to buy a newer case?

    It's time to rebuild my 700R4 (see sig below). I can afford a few weeks downtime this fall/early winter and decided to park the truck, pull the tranny and rebuild it.

    I know the later 700R4's are "better" than the early ones and can be built stronger. My truck is used mostly as a daily driver to/from work and only occasionally to pull a trailer (usually a 16ft trihull boat or a trailer of contruction materials). There's no towing a 7,000lb camper through the mountains or anything like that.

    Am I okay to rebuild my current tranny or would I be far better off finding a newer core? I've been searching junkyards and online but haven't found anything reasonable yet.
    '83 1/2-ton Suburban 4wd 6.2 N/A 700R4 3.73 axles 31" tires

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,397

    Default

    A 89 "K" Case is the idea unit to build
    Be sure to include the updated aftermarket input drum with the reenforced hub. Also replace the sun shell with a heavy duty after market one "The Beast" is one example'
    Replace the roller clutch and the sprague units with heavy duty ones.
    The clutch packs need to be updated to include a 9 clutch 3-4 pack and any other upgrades that are available. Always use colene steels in this box.
    The 2-4 band servo needs to be updated to the corvette servo or better.
    The front pump should be the 13 vane unit
    Replace the front pump bushing and seal as a matter of fact.
    Use a heavy duty "red" 2-4 band
    Be sure to soak all frictions including the band for at least 1/2 hour in tranny fluid prior to assembly. Once the material is soaked fully its good to go.
    Replace the thrust wahers with the best you can get. Many are select fit and many are plastic. If you can get brass or babit over brass its better.
    Some sets come as stock and are plastic and will work ok
    Be sure you use the proper governor with whatever you build. The Gasser units use a different one than diesel.
    Get a Transgo 2-3 shift kit and follow the instructions to the letter.
    Do not set the 1-2 shift on Kill as the shift is reeeeeeeeeeeealy harsh. Stay slightly lighter on the 1-2 setting.
    There are many mods to do to make this box reliable but once you get there its a sweetheart.
    A fresh converter for the diesel application.
    You will need some special tools but they can be improvised.
    The critical one is the seal installers for the input drum assembly.
    Be sure your TV cable is in good shape, if not toss it and get a new one.
    Be very careful on TV cable set up. This will make or break your rebuild.
    Prefill the converter with 3-4 quarts of fluid prior to fitting it to the box.
    Add 5 quarts of oil to the pan then start and fill with tranny in N untill up to the add mark all the while cycling through the ranges R-1 TO FILL ALL PASSAGES.
    Once warm bring up to full mark and not over.
    Keep us posted
    any questions just ask.
    Robyn
    Last edited by Robyn; 10-09-2006 at 18:37.
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    Omaha, NE
    Posts
    162

    Default

    Thanks Robyn, you need to make a sticky of that info!

    My question is this.. I can't find an 89 K case. How terrible is it to use my 83 again? Is the difference significant?
    '83 1/2-ton Suburban 4wd 6.2 N/A 700R4 3.73 axles 31" tires

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,397

    Default

    DONE made the whole post a sticky :0)
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Feeniks, Aridzona
    Posts
    1,113

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bmiszuk
    Thanks Robyn, you need to make a sticky of that info!

    My question is this.. I can't find an 89 K case. How terrible is it to use my 83 again? Is the difference significant?
    The K case is heavier. They are easy to identify as there is a big K cast into the bellhousing. The difference is significant. It should not be hard to find one - just about any late-80's Chevy/GM truck with a big block or diesel should have one. I have seen lots of them in wrecking yards. When I bought my trans, I was able to order it with the K case.
    1987 Jeep Grand Wagoneer...new 6.5 in process...diamond block, 18:1's, other goodies...


  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,397

    Exclamation

    Yes you definately want a K case for your build.
    The early trannies have several issues that you dont want to deal with.
    I got a complete off ebay for my project.
    While you are looking you can be gathering the other goodies.
    Fresh converter
    13 Vane front pump
    Bushings and thrust washers
    Gasket and seal kit
    Transgo 2-3 shift kit
    HD input drum
    HD sun shell
    2-4 band
    Corvette 2-4 servo assembly
    HD sprague
    HD roller clutch
    HD 3-4 clutch pack ( many outfits sell a package)
    All the rest of the clutches can be of stock configuration.
    Now be sure you get a V8 or diesel Tranny and not a V6 one.
    The clutch packs and such are different.
    I suggest doing it peace meal because otherwise you will have extra parts left over.
    The tranny supply houses can do it this way for you.
    Or you can buy a long overhaul kit with everything in one box and then add the special HD parts.
    Once you get your goodies and before you do anything read the manual that comes with the Transgo kit.
    Dont let a salesman sell you the small SK kit You want the 2-3 KIT (Big Box)
    read that material untill you have it in your mind, untill you have the pages worn dog eared. The read it some more. The steps in the installation of the kit are critical and must be followed carefully.
    When you have the box built then do the valve body on a clean clutter free bench. Dont use "red rags" around the tranny, use paper shop towels.
    There are holes to drill, springs to change and all sorts of recomendations for the ON THE BENCH fix as opposed to in the rig.
    These guys got it together and when its done the 700 will delight you every time it kicks you in the butt with a nice crisp shift.
    DONT USE THE HYDRAULIC ONLY LOCKUP FEATURE.
    Retain your electric lockup control.
    Depending on what tranny you end up with youmay need to change the lockup solenoid to match your needs.
    Or you can place control on a switch and let the tranny do the lockup with the valve body and shut the thing off around town via the switch.
    If you find that your valve body does not have a lockup valve set in it we will cover that if and when it happens. ( some 700R4 boxes in the late 89 early 90 had electrical lockup only via the computer)
    88-89 boxes were mostly valve shifted converter clutch)

    OH if you find a 2WD model thats ok just change the ouput shaft to 4WD one.
    You may get a better deal too. Also depending on what you get you MUST match the governor to the diesel. A gasser governor will shift it real goofy.
    Get a diesel governor if you need one from the Chevy store.

    Keep us posted

    Robyn
    Last edited by Robyn; 10-10-2006 at 07:43. Reason: Addition
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Lubbock TX, USA
    Posts
    4,194

    Default

    Driveshaft length 2WD vs 4WD.

    You wouldn't think this was an issue but...

    I recently used a K case for a 2WD application and had the trans built with the longer center shaft and 2WD tailshaft for my application.

    The trans is actually 1" shorter than my original 2WD 700 was in total length.

    Odd huh?

    Going the other way isn't going to work either, the case will be drilled and tapped for the 4WD dust shield (alum cover) and the 2WD just uses pressed steel dust shield with small fasteners.

    4WD application, use 4WD case, period.

    2WD application, you can go either way, just note differences.

    J

  8. #8

    Default

    Is the K case a 4WD case as in K20, K1500 etc? or just a marking on the case? Judging from John's post the 4WD trans will fit in a 2WD truck with the right tailhousing. Trying to understand before I hit the boneyards.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,639

    Arrow

    Quote Originally Posted by spitfirenut View Post
    Is the K case a 4WD case as in K20, K1500 etc? or just a marking on the case? Judging from John's post the 4WD trans will fit in a 2WD truck with the right tailhousing. Trying to understand before I hit the boneyards.
    Yes. Yes. And yes.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,397

    Default

    The K case is just beefier and a better platform to build a good tranny on.
    You can mix and match almost any combination of innards though.
    I would recommend that you stay with the heavy duty diesel parts all the way through.

    The K also has the dual valve bodies.

    There is no mistaking a K case as it has a big K cast into the bell housing on the side.

    If you dont need the big cast aluminum lower cover you can position and drill some holes for the stamped steel unit.
    I would use the aluminum cover though as it will bolt right up.

    Good luck

    Robyn
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  11. #11

    Default

    Thanks, that's what I need to know.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,397

    Default

    Good luck on your search for parts.
    If you have any questions along the way just ask.

    The 700 although not a difficult box to rebuild can present some challenges. There are a couple special tools that are a "MUST HAVE" to be able to assemble the clutch pistons.
    These are the seal installer tools. Without them its a no go and you simply can't assemble without damaging the seals.

    I made mine here in the shop. You can do the same or possibly borrow a set.
    The cost to purchase was not inviting for a single unit rebuild.

    Good luck
    Robyn
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2000
    Location
    Spokane, WA
    Posts
    343

    Question Valve Body Question

    I have a Bowtie 700r4 in my 2WD. Very solid and works as advertised (even though I had to put a transgo kit in it to make it shift right). The trans locks up in OD automatically (it has a NO switch in the OD valve train) but with a toggle I can bypass the OD valve body switch and lock it up in any gear (including 2nd). Since the converter solenoid is what controls lockup exclusively, anytime the OD VB switch is bypassed the thing will lock the converter (except in 1st). The VB only has a port for a switch in the OD train. I would like to have more control over which gear I can lock/unlock it and also have some protection with a pulse switch so that the converter unlocks as it shifts gears. As it is if I have the manual lockup switch activated and it downshifts from 4th to 3rd it jars the tranny when under load and so I'm afraid of damaging it. Also, the decrease in RPM from 3rd unlocked to OD locked is huge, so being able to run in locked 3rd then unlocking as it shifts into OD locked would make for smoother running on the highway.

    I have the VB switches that I need and can figure out the wiring harness. Can I drill and tap ports for these switches in the VB? What would be involved in changing the bushings and valve trains? Or should I look for a VB with these ports already there? If so what would I ask for (e.g., year; model)? Thanks for your ideas. --Randy
    2006 GMC 2500HD Duramax Allison Crew

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,397

    Default

    You need to inbstall a 4-3 pulse switch in the VB.
    Most VB will have the ports in them. Dont dril and tap these as you can make a mess of things.
    Look in the ATRA tranny book for the 700 and cruise through all the diiferent wiring styles and pick the one you like.

    The late 80's VB will have the valving in it so it will lock the converter hydraulically and the only need for the switch would be to shut off the lockup for town driving.
    If your VB has the ports you can install the valves and make it all work.

    Good luck

    Robyn
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2000
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    11,466

    Default

    I was told by my trans guy back in the 90's that the pre-87 700R4 can be built/modified to shift without any electrical control. In fact, that's what he built for my 6.2TD GMC. The TV cable was retained, but not electrics. Shift scheduling was controlled by the TV cable, speed and hydraulic pressure internally. Worked great...

    Jim

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    washington iowa
    Posts
    942

    Default

    I also have a Bowtie 700R4 and I have noticed that it will also go direct from 3rd to OD and lockup together,however that occurs at light throttle if I am applying more throttle than normal it will do the 3-4 shift and then T/C lockup.
    Down shifting has been no issue as lockup drops out around 35-40 mph.
    I do have the optional 3rd gear lockup switch but rarely use it.
    Merle
    My Rustbelt Special
    75,77,79,80,83,84,85,94
    K10 Silverado
    Avant/Banks 6.5TD
    02 CHEV D/A ECSB My Truck Pics

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,397

    Default

    Transgo sells a kit to allow a non electric lockup.

    The Valve body must have the lockup control spools in the bore sot do this though.

    Some of the 700R4 boxes have the bores but are fitted with aluminum plugs.
    The plugs can be removed and the spools, springs and such then fitted.

    Ther is also a solenoid that is hooked up along with the hydraulics to give an electrical control too.

    The early setup placed a check ball under the solenoid valve and this allowed the shift valves (spools) to do all the work.
    This was however a tad hinky in the way it worked.

    The new setup allows much better control of the lockup in and out.


    best

    Robyn
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    San Juan Capistrano,ca
    Posts
    78

    Post 4WD trans/ No 4WD output shaft will work with 2wd application!

    Requires 2WD out put shaft & extension housing!
    4doorTAHOE6.5TD

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,397

    Default

    That is correct.

    The case is the same but, the output shaft and tail housing must come from a 2 wheel drive application.

    Pretty much the same rule applies to the TH 400, the TH 350 and the 4L80.

    Robyn
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Edmonton Alberta, Canada
    Posts
    52

    Default 700R4 Electrics

    Hey Robyn, or anyone that would like to comment,

    I have picked up 700R4/208 package from a 90 suburban 350 4x4. I was told by a trans shop that I would need 2 things for my rebuild. 1st was the computer from the suburban becuase it was controled by that. 2nd was that I would need a new stator for the 13 v-pump? So I have been reading alot about building these things on several sites and I found that Bowtie Overdrives offers a wiring kit for the 4 pin plug/solenoid and pressure switch inside the trans for the lockup that includes towing circuit/switch. Bowtie states that you absolutely do not need a computer to operate one of these trans.

    Wherever I read I seem to get different detailed descriptions of little things to do to make this 700 work reliably. I am putting it behind my 6.2 so I don't need a monster I just need reliable and I would like to be able to tow without worrying about it. Have read about lots of people online here that had them well built and had no problems even when towing. Would love to hear anyones opinion about the best thing and the worst thing to do with these. Does everyone use 1200 stall converter on these?

    Thanks for any detailed thoughts you all have.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •