cranks but won't start, glow plug light only on for a couple seconds?

[d350diesel]

I just bought the '95 in my sig yesterday, so you'll have to excuse my ignorance. I'm familiar with Cummins diesels but I'm a little lost under the hood of this one.

I just put new batteries in this afternoon because the engine would hardly turn over this morning (plugged in, block heater works, about 20 degrees outside). Now the truck cranks great but does not even cough like it's trying to start. When the key is turned on I hear a click and the glow plug light comes on for about 2 seconds, then turns off. It seems to me it ought to glow longer than that, the intake heaters on my Dodge run about 30 seconds in this weather. I plugged it in and left it sit for a couple hours, hoping it would fire when warm, but no luck.

When I picked up the truck from the PO yesterday, the engine was cold, outside temp was around 50, and the truck fired up pretty easily. I'm baffled as to why it won't start today with fresh batteries.

[More Power]

The 1994 models won't produce a glow cycle at all after disconnecting the batteries - till after it's been started or after some unknown number of ignition cycles. The guys with the 95 models can chime in here to let us know if they produce the same result. Thus, I recommend disconnecting the batteries only after the engine has been warmed up - to help with that next start.

You could try disconnecting the engine temperature sensor. This tricks the PCM into thinking it's -40 degrees, which should produce the longest glow cycle the system is programmed to deliver.

The engine should start without glow after having had the block heater plugged in for a couple of hours.

Jim

[ToddMeister]

My 95 produces a very short glow cycle after the batts have been disconnected.

If the engine is cold, you could use a jumper cable to connect the two large terminals on the glow plug relay for about 5 seconds and have a helper crank the engine to fire it up.

[N9Phil]

I would pull the boots down on the two large terminals that are on the front of the glow plug relay (it sits on the firewall in the middle of the engine) then I would take a screw driver and short between the two terminals for 10 to 15 seconds. Give it a try. If it try

[moondoggie]

Good Day!

At 50

[ECMProgrammer]

Yes, after the memory is cleared in the computer (battery disconnect), there are several 'relearns' that take place. First is the glow plugs.
It's not the smartest design--especially in the dead of winter !!

Lyndon
www.ecmprogrammer.com
Westers Garage
1-888-WESTER-1

[d350diesel]

Thanks for all the help. It sounds like the "no glow" thing is normal, but it didn't even act like it was trying to start yesterday after being plugged in for 3 hours. I tried to start it a few times when I got home from work (unplugged), but no go. I'd like to try unplugging the CTS, where is that?

I'm going to tear into this thing tomorrow, where is the best place to check for fuel? I see a petcock thingy up by the thermostat housing, is that a bleed valve?

Is there a fuse or connector I can pull to disable the glow plugs to try ether?

[d350diesel]

Nevermind about the bleeding/fuel check question, I found that with the site search.

[65TD]

Unplug the CTS.

It's on the coolant crossover just down from the heater hose quick connect.

This will advance timing, glow time will be extended. Higher than normal idle and maybe some clattering will be expected.

[d350diesel]

Got it to start this morning. It was plugged in overnight. I went out, put the key in (got a "normal" length glow, too), dropped it in drive, and hit the key. I heard the lift pump run, loud at first and then softer as pressure built. Put it in neutral and it started right up, then died about 30 seconds later. Repeated the procedure, same thing happened. Repeated again, but this time held it at 1500 RPM. It would stay running as long as I kept my foot in it, but would die after a few seconds of idling.

I've been doing some reading and this is just a wild guess, but is it possible it's the OPS? Or do I have a leak that's letting air in?

[65TD]

See if fuel will pump out of the filter mgr drain valve while it's running. If so the lift pump is pumping enough to run.

Try with CTS unplugged.

[d350diesel]

Drain valve is the one by the thermostat?

I'm pretty sure it's a fuel leak because I smell it. I got it to stay running after a few starts, it would still die if left to idle too long.

I'm going to pull the filter housing off, from the reading I've done so far it sounds like most fuel leaks are found in that area. The o-rings are a dealer item I guess? There's nothing wet around the IP and the injectors.

I'm feeling a lot better about this truck, it had me real worried for a couple days there. Amazing what a fresh set of batteries will do! Kind of a steep learning curve on these things, much more complex than the old Dodge I'm used to.

[65TD]

Fresh batteries is definitely a headache saver.

Really need to check the lift pump after correcting leak. Maybe it's just the seal on the filter. Other common fuel problems are air getting into fuel line from a hole in the line or at the junction of rubber line and steel line.

Lift pump must be running with engine or oil pressure switch is suspect. If it's running it must supply enough pressure. Yes, drain valve is by the thermostat and has a hose on it.


If you hear the lift pump while the engine is running the OPS should be OK, but the fuel flow still needs to be verified at valve.

[d350diesel]

Thanks, will do.

[moondoggie]

Good Day!

The most common symptom with a failed OPS is that, under load, you get a miss that's just like a gasser with an ignition miss.

Your IP can draw fuel from the tank without the aid of the LP. It will not be able to draw enough fuel for max load, however, hence the above-mentioned miss under load. (There's also considerable thought that it's a bad idea to drive much without a functional LP system.) If your OPS had failed, it should idle fine.

With the engine idling, you can loosen (slightly!) the plastic fuel filter nut on top of the fuel filter assy, & fuel should squirt out. (A piece of tubing from the bleed port on top of this nut to a container will preclude making a stinky mess when trying this.) If this happens & the engine continues idling, your LP system (including the OPS) is OK; if it dies pretty quick, the LP system isn't working, at least during run mode. You obviously won't be able to try this until you've gotten it to idle in the 1st place.

I'd bet you're getting air in somewhere, or something else our experts will be able to help with.




Blessings!

(signature in previous post)

[d350diesel]

I got the o-rings from the dealer and had time to mess with the truck this morning. Primed it using the "drop it in Drive and turn the key to start" method and checked the fuel flow while I was at it. Then I started the truck, it lit right off. As suspected, there was no fuel flow out the bleed with the engine running. Good thing I bought an OPS. So off came the fuel filter housing. The hose clamp on the outlet was pointed downwards, which made for a bit of a challenge. The source of the fuel leak was pretty obvious once I had the filter housing off. The WIF sensor is cracked, and fuel is seeping through the sensor. So no joy today.

The new OPS is installed, now I'm just waiting for Monday so I can order a new WIF sensor at the dealer. Thanks again for all the help - I think once this fuel leak is fixed the truck will be pretty reliable.

[gmctd]

Don't be too upset to find that part is not available seperately - only the complete filter assembly.

[d350diesel]

Don't be too upset to find that part is not available seperately - only the complete filter assembly.

That will upset me greatly! How much do they want for the whole thing?

[d350diesel]

I did some more poking around online after that last post and found that the WIF sensor is available, but it's $85.

So I drilled and tapped the WIF sensor port for 1/8" NPT and put a pipe plug in it. Put the truck back together, bled the filter, and she fired right up. Checked the fuel flow with the engine running, I have plenty so the new OPS is working nicely. The truck idles nice and smooth, I drove it about 15 miles with no stalling issues.

The real test will be whether I have to prime the fuel system tomorrow morning to get it to start, or if it will just light off like it should.

Thanks again for all the helpful suggestions, figuring this out would have been a lot tougher without TDP.

[d350diesel]

Now it's back to the short glow plug light (1 second) and no start!

Unplugging the ECT sensor has no effect on the length of the glow plug cycle.

I shorted across the glow plug relay and counted to 20, then went and hit the key - still no start, doesn't even cough.

Lift pump runs while cranking (once there is oil pressure) and for several seconds after that.

I have good fuel flow at the bleed while the LP is running.

Plugged the truck in for 3 hours while working on another project, still no change. It started and ran perfectly yesterday. Where to now?