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Thread: Pulling the turbo

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    Default Pulling the turbo

    PLanning on pulling off my turbo this week. The thing sounds like a kettle when I've got my foot in it, so I am guessing a leak. Maybe around where the turbo exhaust intake bolts to the turbo? As I said, the thing sounds like a screaming kettle. I can still hear the normal whistle of the turbo during these noises, just not as loud. And I don't have the same power under load. Question is, is there a gasket for in between the manifold and the turbo that I can get? When I first pulled it, there was none, but now I am starting to wonder. Thanks.
    1993 HD2500- 4X4, Nv4500, rc/lb, Lots of mods, killed her. Awaiting her TT rebuild!

    2002 Camaro L36/M49- Killed In Action

    1995 HD2500 - 4X4, NV4500 rc/lb, GL4, Turbo, exhaust

    1994 HD2500- 4X4, NV4500, ec/lb

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
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    Lubbock TX, USA
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    Default

    No Gasket between the input flange and the exhaust manifold.

    Make sure you ain't got an intake manifold leak instead.

    The two main sources:

    The rubber/silicone boot between the turbo and the intake manifold, this can rupture, and make a noise as your describe.

    The intake manifold connection between the upper and lower, this gasket and break and pooch outward and make a noise as the pressure is escaping.

    If you check all these areas and are still having troubles, you can proceed to remove the turbo to check things out.

    It's pretty straight forward. Some things that will help will be to remove the airbox completly, then remove the bolts holding the radiator recover tank on the firewall, move it to the side along with it's hose. It'll grant you more access to the downpipe clamp.

    Then the rest of the bolts, oil drain, oil inlet, turbo-2-intake brace.

    J

  3. #3
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    Nov 2006
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    Default Gaskets

    Okay, intake to head gaskets are new, just did them. New downpipe was reinstalled very recently, so I'm pretty sure belly clamp is tight. I will try to check the boot first. You mean the one that goes onto the end of the plenum right? Thanks for the reply.
    1993 HD2500- 4X4, Nv4500, rc/lb, Lots of mods, killed her. Awaiting her TT rebuild!

    2002 Camaro L36/M49- Killed In Action

    1995 HD2500 - 4X4, NV4500 rc/lb, GL4, Turbo, exhaust

    1994 HD2500- 4X4, NV4500, ec/lb

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Default Turbo Removal

    Do you remove the turbo without taking off the inner wheel well? I have done this six or seven times as the Haynes manual said to. Can you get it off without removing the tire and wheel well? If you can, it sucks that I have wasted all this time doing that, as I am now quite fast at doing this operation.
    1993 HD2500- 4X4, Nv4500, rc/lb, Lots of mods, killed her. Awaiting her TT rebuild!

    2002 Camaro L36/M49- Killed In Action

    1995 HD2500 - 4X4, NV4500 rc/lb, GL4, Turbo, exhaust

    1994 HD2500- 4X4, NV4500, ec/lb

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
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    Lubbock TX, USA
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    Default

    The boot I'm referring to is the boot betwee the turbo and the uppper intake plenum (with the two clamps holding it on).

    Out of the several times I've removed these things I've never removed the inner fender. I usually remove the rubber flap on the inner fender covering the upper a-arm (pop plastic push-ins with tool).

    This has worked for one on both 2WD and 4WD trucks...

    Hmm, the hayes tells you to remove the inner fender eh? I'll check that one out, have that manual too.

    J
    1982 C10 SCSWB 6.5TD, mods too extensive to list. (13.69 1/4 mile @94.6 MPH) RACE TRUCK
    1982 C10 SCSWB 6.2NA, 2.73 700
    1986 C10 SCLWB 6.2TD 3.73 700
    1989 V20 SUB 6.2NA, 3.73 400
    1994 G20 VAN 6.5NA, 3.42 60E
    1994 K20LD ECSWB 6.5TD, 3.42 80E
    1995 K20 SUB 6.5TD, Wrecked, ran into by stupid teen.
    1995 C3500HD DRW 6.5TD, 12' Flatbed 5.13 80E
    1995 C3500HD DRW 6.5TD, 18' Rollback Wrecker 4.63 80E
    1994 C20HD ECLWB 6.5TD 3.73 80E Wifes Truck.
    1995 C20LD ECSWB 6.5TD 3.73 80E
    1995 K20LD SCLWB 6.5TD 3.73 80E
    1996 K30 DRW 6.5TD 4.10 80E
    1997 C10 Tahoe 2Door 2WD 5.7L to 6.5 Conversion Underway

  6. #6
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    Default Turbo Removal

    Thanks for the info. The boot does have a little spot, the size of this , but it isn't gone all the way through, just the outer layer. Checked all turbo bolts, tightened belly clamp, and checked all manifold to head bolts. Seems to have fixed the problem for now. Bigger ones now as I am not getting power to my LP and the truck is really hard to start even when LP is hotwired. Have to check everything.
    1993 HD2500- 4X4, Nv4500, rc/lb, Lots of mods, killed her. Awaiting her TT rebuild!

    2002 Camaro L36/M49- Killed In Action

    1995 HD2500 - 4X4, NV4500 rc/lb, GL4, Turbo, exhaust

    1994 HD2500- 4X4, NV4500, ec/lb

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Lubbock TX, USA
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    Default

    Might consider replacing the boot then, with the same size aftermarket silicone 2.5" ID hose. Since you're there, you'll want to replace the worm-gear clamps used on 92-94 6.5's with the later T-bolt clamps (can also be found aftermarket too).

    J

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