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Thread: 1998 K3500 overhaul - day 3

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Victoria, BC, Canada
    Posts
    141

    Default 1998 K3500 overhaul - day 3

    Since our last installment a few things have gotten done. I
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    1998 Chevy silverado 3500 4x4, 6.5TD, 215000 miles, 4L80-E, 4.10 ratio, 6" lift, gauges and intercooler... and a newly rebuilt engine on new block and heads!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Knoxville,Tennessee
    Posts
    2,643

    Wink

    Take look at the pitman arm and the idler link too. Week links in these trucks.
    "The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government."
    -Patrick Henry


    A5150nut
    2006 K3500 D/A
    94 6.5 4x4 5spd Sold

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Victoria, BC, Canada
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    141

    Default

    I've got the chilton guide and the alldatadiy version of the service manual, but neither one gives instructions on evaluating the pitman or idler arms, only replacement instructions. If it feels solid is it good?

    more special tool questions.. steering linkage puller j-24319-01 and installer j-29193 - needed? aftermarket alternatives?

    thanks!
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    1998 Chevy silverado 3500 4x4, 6.5TD, 215000 miles, 4L80-E, 4.10 ratio, 6" lift, gauges and intercooler... and a newly rebuilt engine on new block and heads!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Knoxville,Tennessee
    Posts
    2,643

    Talking

    Quote Originally Posted by derekja
    I've got the chilton guide and the alldatadiy version of the service manual, but neither one gives instructions on evaluating the pitman or idler arms, only replacement instructions. If it feels solid is it good?

    more special tool questions.. steering linkage puller j-24319-01 and installer j-29193 - needed? aftermarket alternatives?

    thanks!
    Feel for slop at the end connecting to the tie rod. You will need to remove the steering box to get the arm off and a standard gear puller works fine. Pitman arm is mounted to frame, just unbolt it and seperate from tie rod, pickle fork works fine. Remember to lube pitman arm. Gets missed because you have to drop fron skid plate on 4x4s.
    "The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government."
    -Patrick Henry


    A5150nut
    2006 K3500 D/A
    94 6.5 4x4 5spd Sold

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,576

    Arrow

    A little foggy-eyed this morning, 5150?

    The pitman arm is attached to the steering box output shaft, and the idler arm is attached to the frame. They do get neglected, and I think that's the reason they get on the common failure list. The scream for grease, but don't get enough.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    South Central Pennsylvania, USA
    Posts
    2,697

    Default

    I know it seems like the money is just continuing to add up, but I'd replace the steering components while you are in there. If everything else was neglected and in bad shape, those are probably in a similar state. Better to do it now than have it all buttoned up and then find you have to tear it down again a month after that job starts and you need to drive the truck to work...
    '94 GMC 6.5TD K1500 4L80E 2-Door Yukon SLE 221K
    '93 Chevrolet 6.5TD K2500HD NV4500 Std. Cab Longbed 187K
    '85 Toyota 22R RN60 4x4 Std. Cab Shortbed 178K (Currently retired for rebuild)
    Diesel Page Member #2423

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Victoria, BC, Canada
    Posts
    141

    Default

    ordering question... It's pretty tight in there get at these pieces. Next week I've got to move the truck back a few feet so that I have room to pull the engine out, so I'm putting the front end back together.

    I've about got myself convinced that it would be better to get at the pitman arm and idler arm when the engine and radiator and all are out of there to make more room. It doesn't look like anything but the inboard end of the tie rods would need to be touched again if I did things in that order.

    Is that reasonable or am I missing some reason that it would be better to do this with the rest of the front end right now?
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    1998 Chevy silverado 3500 4x4, 6.5TD, 215000 miles, 4L80-E, 4.10 ratio, 6" lift, gauges and intercooler... and a newly rebuilt engine on new block and heads!

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