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Thread: Bump stops

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    St. Albans, WV
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    368

    Default Bump stops

    I have noticed that the bump stops on the front of my Suburban are very close to the control arms. Is that normal?
    They are made of pretty hard rubber, so I'm sure they don't give much
    I would think that this would add to the harshness of the ride.
    What do you guys think?
    96 Suburban K2500 6.5L TD. High miles and daily driven (for now). Remote mount FSD with cooler, Turbo Master/Boost fooler, 4" Jardine turbo back exhaust, 2.5" cross-over pipe, Boost, EGT, & Tranny temp gauges, working on more.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Palm Beach, Florida
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    1,816

    Default Bump Stops

    I had replaced mine w/AirLift bump stops for snow plow use which are designed to rest on control arm, too harsh a ride for me. Cut 2/3rds off each unit to clear control arm. Perhaps, your torque bars need some adjustment too?
    99 GMC SUB, 2500, 4x4, 6.5 TD (F) #H32 enhanced blk, Phaser timing set, B&D IC, 3" ATS exh, K&N w/prefilter, 4WD NVG 246, 4L80E kevlar Transgo off road/tow mods/B&M supercooler, 14 FF MagTec w/locker 3.42:1, 9.25" IFS frt/diff 3.42:1 w/ARB locker, AutoMeter Boost & pre-turbo pyro meter, 12,000 lb hydro winch, Warn classic bumper w/brushguard & diesel scoop, Max E-torq Stage 3, hi pop inj, oil bypass sys, on board air comp for front ARB locker & tire inflation, DynaView driving/auto-cornering lts, DZ nerfs, A/T 285/75/16 SilentArmor 3750 lb rated on 3750 lb rated Alcoa, 3 IP drivers 2 r spares.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    St. Albans, WV
    Posts
    368

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DA BIG ONE
    Perhaps, your torque bars need some adjustment too?
    I had considered that. How do you adjust them?

    Thanks!!
    96 Suburban K2500 6.5L TD. High miles and daily driven (for now). Remote mount FSD with cooler, Turbo Master/Boost fooler, 4" Jardine turbo back exhaust, 2.5" cross-over pipe, Boost, EGT, & Tranny temp gauges, working on more.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Palm Beach, Florida
    Posts
    1,816

    Default Best done on alignment

    Quote Originally Posted by Shikaroka
    I had considered that. How do you adjust them?

    Thanks!!
    Best done on alignment rack (4 wheel type) because the alignment changes as bars are raised via bolts on crossmember at rear end of torson bar. If not sure how bars are adjusted get a repair manual for it and study proceedure to set control arm height correctly.

    A 4 wheel type alignment rack will also find things like rear differential not tracking properly............................
    99 GMC SUB, 2500, 4x4, 6.5 TD (F) #H32 enhanced blk, Phaser timing set, B&D IC, 3" ATS exh, K&N w/prefilter, 4WD NVG 246, 4L80E kevlar Transgo off road/tow mods/B&M supercooler, 14 FF MagTec w/locker 3.42:1, 9.25" IFS frt/diff 3.42:1 w/ARB locker, AutoMeter Boost & pre-turbo pyro meter, 12,000 lb hydro winch, Warn classic bumper w/brushguard & diesel scoop, Max E-torq Stage 3, hi pop inj, oil bypass sys, on board air comp for front ARB locker & tire inflation, DynaView driving/auto-cornering lts, DZ nerfs, A/T 285/75/16 SilentArmor 3750 lb rated on 3750 lb rated Alcoa, 3 IP drivers 2 r spares.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    St. Albans, WV
    Posts
    368

    Default

    I'd say my alignment is pretty good right now. It tracks pretty well and the tires all wear evenly.
    I don't really want to raise the front much, but if it will keep it off the bump stops then I may give it a try.
    96 Suburban K2500 6.5L TD. High miles and daily driven (for now). Remote mount FSD with cooler, Turbo Master/Boost fooler, 4" Jardine turbo back exhaust, 2.5" cross-over pipe, Boost, EGT, & Tranny temp gauges, working on more.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Palm Beach, Florida
    Posts
    1,816

    Default Beware

    Quote Originally Posted by Shikaroka
    I'd say my alignment is pretty good right now. It tracks pretty well and the tires all wear evenly.
    I don't really want to raise the front much, but if it will keep it off the bump stops then I may give it a try.
    As you lift the front by adjusting at torson bars the bottom of the tires will move in and cause excessive wear at outside edge of tires, an alignment should be done right away to correct changes from lift....................IMHO
    99 GMC SUB, 2500, 4x4, 6.5 TD (F) #H32 enhanced blk, Phaser timing set, B&D IC, 3" ATS exh, K&N w/prefilter, 4WD NVG 246, 4L80E kevlar Transgo off road/tow mods/B&M supercooler, 14 FF MagTec w/locker 3.42:1, 9.25" IFS frt/diff 3.42:1 w/ARB locker, AutoMeter Boost & pre-turbo pyro meter, 12,000 lb hydro winch, Warn classic bumper w/brushguard & diesel scoop, Max E-torq Stage 3, hi pop inj, oil bypass sys, on board air comp for front ARB locker & tire inflation, DynaView driving/auto-cornering lts, DZ nerfs, A/T 285/75/16 SilentArmor 3750 lb rated on 3750 lb rated Alcoa, 3 IP drivers 2 r spares.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    St. Albans, WV
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    Default

    Yeh, I'm aware of that.
    I would certainly get an alignment if I messed around with the torsion bars or made any height adjustments.
    Thanks for the advice.
    96 Suburban K2500 6.5L TD. High miles and daily driven (for now). Remote mount FSD with cooler, Turbo Master/Boost fooler, 4" Jardine turbo back exhaust, 2.5" cross-over pipe, Boost, EGT, & Tranny temp gauges, working on more.

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