Garrett turbo for LB7

[Mark Rinker]

Thoughts...comments?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Duram...08666196QQrdZ1

[Dan@PPE]

it is hardly bigger then stock, If you want one let me know and I will give you a better price then that...

Dan

[Mark Rinker]

Thanks for the reply.

I have, sitting on my shelf, a 2003 LB7 with <100 miles on it, complete. My business is all about towing heavy objects constantly over insane distances - each truck will see in excess of 100K miles per year.

Q1: If you were to prep this motor internally for max performance over stock, while maintaining longevity and mileage - what mods would you perform?
Here are my plans for external improvements, in order of importance:

1) 4" exhaust, improved intake air flow;
2) Upgrade turbo for greater efficiency;
3) Custom +40hp tow tune by Kennedy Diesel (proven tune to me - powerful down low, quiet engine, cleaner oil and no smoke.) ~340hp
4) +60hp propane flow at 8psi boost when tow/haul engaged. MSD Digital system already onboard - nice smooth transitions. ~400hp
5) Transmission will need to be prepped to hold this stack under max towed loads of 15K#. (Currently, this power combo with a headwind and a hill can cause a limp during full power downshift to maintain groundspeed.)

Q2: How do I increase the efficiency of my intercooler to bring down IATs?

Also - additional oil cooling, oil capacity.

[SoTxPollock]

I think you've got the right idea on the mods.
If it were me, I'd tear the engine down and mic everything and document it and check especially the crank roundness be sure there are no cracks anywhere and I do mean anywhere. If you find a crack, don;t use the part. A crack is an invitation to failure of the part regardless what part it is.

Check and if necessary resize the rods. Don't settle for anything less that 1 tenthousants of an inch out of round. You want the bearings to stay in and not spin when you load it up hard. If the bushings are worn on the rods, resize and new bushings too to fit the pins you will run, assuming same pistons, probably ok for continuous 400 hp.

Clearance the oil pump to boost the flow rate, they tend to drop as they wear and the clearances get too large.

Probably wouldn't hurt to clean up the intrance and exit area below the valves to improve air flow, just considering that any sharp edge is a flow restriction because it promotes turbulence. You want laminar flow not turbulent flow, smoother is better.
Just think it through. What would make it pump air better, using that approach will yield many little things that can be done it you have the time to do them. I'd also recomment the driver side exhause manafiold BD sells.
If you gonna get real serious, seems everyone goes with studs instead of head bolts. I always did on racing engines, but I don't think its necessary for towing power levels.
After all if you really tow at 400 or 500 hp, you're gonna have to put a cooler on the rear end and transfer case so they'll last.
Opps got to get back to work.

[More Power]

ARP head studs would be nice, but they cost ~$750. I've heard about some small-time operators offering an off-brand of studs for less money, but I've heard some not so good stories with them.

Some owners of performance Duramax engines are pinning the cam gear to the cam.

If you're towing at mostly <2500 rpm, the factory turbo should be just fine. An aftermarket turbo might be a better choice if you need more power & cooler EGT's at higher rpms.

Get the BD driver's side manifold.

Get some clear engine paint & coat the aluminum parts.....

Jim

[Mark Rinker]

Great ideas - thanks, all...