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Thread: Duramax Diesel Conversions

  1. #21

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    Okay, now I just connected the fuel lines, but as suburban has smaller pipe coming out from fuel tank, does it affect the engine work? Today I filled engine with oil and tried to start it with my "screwdriver key" and it actually started for a second. Of course, Passlock then interrupted. What I noticed, that if I turn ignition on, then on the info panel in the dashboard, it says: "Driver 1 - Odometer: 116000 - Low Fuel, Service 4WD, and then it stays at odometer (you can change by hourmeter, business and so on from the button there). But in the book, I saw, that Jim had all gears marked up there (P, R, N, D, 3, 2, 1), if the ignition was on. Well, Jim had little bit different instrument panel as well, but I still think, that it should show it. I got the tail lights working after some hours (in Europe you have to have amber indicator lights, so thats way I was confused).

    PS! My headlights are acting weird. When I turn the ignition on, then theres low beam, if I change to high beam, the low beam goes off, actually they both should be on...

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    ZEPHYRHILLS, FL
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    On a GM it's one or the other for the headlights, you have to do the all 4 mod to get them all on at the same time. Do you have all of your connections made? The PRNDL indicator for the trans is a seperate part of the cluster. It also won't work if the NSBU on the tranny shift linkage isn't hooked up. And you need to be certain that your vehicle bus communications is working properly so all of the modules can talk to each other. If not that can cause your gear indicator and other messages to appear. And if you run the stock 3/8 line, I would DEFINATELY wire in a lift pump to keep up with the fuel demand.

  3. #23

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    Now I started connecting inside wires and bad thing is, that my junction block does not match with Jim´s one and if I checked the ALLDATA, then that one there didnt match with mine nor Jim´s.
    http://stuff.e30club.org/images/suburban/juncblock.JPG
    So I just have to pull out all fuses and put them in one-by-one to see, where I need to connect the right wire or someone has a better solution?

  4. #24
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    Feb 2000
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    Montana
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    I bought the full set of GM manuals and the separate electrical diagram book for the model year of the engine package I used. In these books was an illustration and pinout descriptions for the junction block I used. If buying the books isn't a possibility, I'd visit a a local dealership and try to get a printout from them for your junction block.

    By the way, the separate electrical diagram book isn't strictly necessary because the individual diagrams can be found scattered throughout the service manual book set. Being scattered makes it more time consuming to get all of the information, so I found it better to have all of the diagrams in one book. I recommend getting the GM electrical diagram book matching the model year of your engine package.

    By the way, please don't post scans of diagrams or other copyrighted material from AllData or any other source.

    Jim

  5. #25

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    As Im building a car in Norway, then in this country, it isnt possible to buy this book, they just dont sell it. Although I purchased all possible versions in alldata, that my donor car could be. It turned out, its a 2003 year model. I noticed, that every year has its own junction block under the dashboard, so now its pretty easy to find out everything. And it was true, that it needs a feeding pump, because before there was problems with starting the car. If it started, then it ran just well. After intsalling a Holley performance feeding pump, it starts just nicely and runs like a sportscar

    But does anyone know, what to do with the brake fluid level indicator? As my suburban tank does not have such plug, then i just leave it there hanging? Actually I dont like the light in the dashboard, that says, you have too little brake fluid. And as handbrake uses the same light, I just cant disable it.

  6. #26
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    Apr 2001
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    CA
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    The brake fluid level indicator sensor is a normally open circuit, closed when the fluid level is sufficient. You should be able to shunt the connector to get the lamp to go out. If you do this and the lamp stays on, then you have another sensor or switch in the system that's not happy, or missing, or the brake fluid level harness is not wired correctly into the system. The EBCM (Electronic Brake Control Module) receives the input from the brake fluid level switch, and controls the IP lamp. If you pacify all the switches/sensors, and still have the lamp on, I'd suspect an issue with the EBCM, or a weak/missing ground in the circuit. If you haven't installed the late model EBCM, that could very well be the problem, with the BCM missing the input, or the input is not correct from the park brake switch (which is monitored by the BCM)
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    2014 Chevy Cruze Diesel - Fabulous car, no problems at all, but sold Nov. 2016 @ 55K miles.
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  7. #27
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    When beginning a project as complex as a Duramax conversion, it's helpful as you work through the project to use checklists, and then concentrate on one or just a few steps at a time. A person can become bogged-down and discouraged when contemplating the entirety of the project. Again, just concentrating on a few steps at a time helps to keep you focused, and allows you to see and measure progress in real terms.

    When our project was in the planning stages, and while actually working through the conversion, I created many lists that I used to help keep me focused. Here's one of those lists (yes, I kept them all).



    When taken as bite-size chunks, the project becomes doable for most people. A list helps keep you focused....

    Jim
    Last edited by More Power; 06-11-2009 at 12:26 PM.

  8. #28
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    SE Wisconsin
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    488

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    Quote Originally Posted by More Power View Post
    When beginning a project as complex as a Duramax conversion, it's helpful as you work through the project to use checklists, and then concentrate on one or just a few steps at a time. A person can become bogged-down and discouraged when contemplating the entirety of the project. Again, just concentrating on a few steps at a time helps to keep you focused, and allows you to see and measure progress in real terms.

    When our project was in the planning stages, and while actually working through the conversion, I created many lists that I used to help keep me focused. Here's one of those lists (yes, I kept them all).

    When taken as bite-size chunks, the project becomes doable for most people. A list helps keep you focused....

    Jim
    This is excellent advice. I have done this and it makes me more focused and also helps me plan ahead so I have the parts I need when I have the time to do the work.
    1993 K3500 - Peninsular 18:1 engine, marine injectors, high capacity cooling, AL Core Radiator, 3" DP and 4" exhaust, ISSPRO Gauges, Girdle, AMSOIL Dual Oil Filter System, 1997 Air Filter(trashed the K&N), 395K on Body, 165k on engine.
    1997 GMC Savana - 6.5 TD
    1966 CJ5 - V6 Gas - highly modified
    1967 Jeepster - Stock
    1986 Jeep CJ7 - Stock
    1993 Grand Cherokee - 6.2 diesel
    2007 Grand Cherokee - 3.0 diesel

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    ZEPHYRHILLS, FL
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    Quote Originally Posted by THEFERMANATOR View Post
    The A/C control head in the 95-99 SUB's output's a 12V+ signal to the A/C system to request the compressor to come on. The 01 DMAX uses a ground signal from the controller to the ECM to trigger the A/C. So you would need to use a relay that is turned on by the 95 control head that would ground the A/C request signal to the ECM. And the A/C light in the control head is turned on by a controller inside of the A/C control head itself. Also the power for the blower motor in the HVAC comes through the origanal underhood harness that ran behind the engine and came down underneath the old coolant bottle. This is the same harness that origanally had all of the ECM wiring in it.
    I discovered that ALLDATA is backwards on the 01 for A/C request. It does in fact look for a 12V+ signal from the HVAC controller like the 95-00 6.5's HVAC controller outputs. I scratched my head for about an hour before I decided to apply 12V+ to the A/C request and VOILA, I have air now that the ECM controls.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Valrico, FL(TAMPA)
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    Thefermenator has answered most of the questions. If anyone has any questions about my 99 C2500 conversion feel free to call 800-521-9854x0 or email; gordon@marksair.com.
    It's cool that we're only 20mi apart-we've talked & looked at both trucks several times. He had some different issues since his was 4WD & OBD I. Naturally, we did some things differently-I would have done some of what he did & visa-versa.
    I did use the DMAX colmn. & dash. Since I started much sooner(& was a lot SLOWER!!), there is obiviously a lot to be learned from the others that have done conversions later on.
    I didn't document as well as Jim, but I did do quite a bit-I particularly have A LOT of pictures(aren't digital cameras GREAT??).
    Gordon Marks
    Tampa, FL (Valrico, FL actually)
    99 Suburban C2500 W/LB7
    55 Series 1 3600
    33 Chevy 4dr street Rod
    64 Biscayne 409 NSS
    "10.81@124.65"]10.81@124.65 3920lbs.
    gordon@marksair.com

  11. #31
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    Jan 2008
    Location
    Valrico, FL(TAMPA)
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    I should have mentioned that during my conversion Jim's book was priceless!! I had no one else to discuss the conversion with since not too many had tried it at that time. I used his mount patterns with some minor mods(which I forwarded to JIM) for the 2WD since I didn't have the transfer case to contend with like he and Ferman did. Mine could sit lower in the frame.
    As I mentioned, I'd be glad to talk to anyone about the conversion-my contact info is in the other emails.
    Gordon Marks
    Tampa, FL (Valrico, FL actually)
    99 Suburban C2500 W/LB7
    55 Series 1 3600
    33 Chevy 4dr street Rod
    64 Biscayne 409 NSS
    "10.81@124.65"]10.81@124.65 3920lbs.
    gordon@marksair.com

  12. #32
    Join Date
    Feb 2000
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    Montana
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    I've added several links to Duramax Diesel Power Project page, that discuss the rear disc brake conversion and include more details about the truck's interior. Also, we've begun offering professionally produced motor mounts that greatly simplify a conversion. See the mounts here. Jim
    Last edited by More Power; 03-19-2018 at 02:27 PM.

  13. #33
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  14. #34
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Granby, Missouri, USA
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    Quote Originally Posted by More Power View Post
    A new article is now available online about a 1998 Chevy K1500 LBZ...

    https://www.thedieselpage.com/duramax/1998LBZ.htm

    Very nice!!

    Casey
    1995 K1500 Tahoe 2 door, 6.5LTD, NP241, 4L80E, 3.42's, 285/75R16 BFG K02's; Kennedy OPS harness, gauges, Quick Heat plugs, and TD-Max chip; Dtech FSD on FSD Cooler; vacuum pump deleted, Turbo Master, 3.5" Kennedy exhaust, F code intake, '97 air box; dual t/stats, HO water pump, Champion radiator; Racor fuel filter; 368K miles and running strong!

  15. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by arveetek View Post
    Very nice!!

    Casey
    Blake is nicest guy ever. I hope we do get together at some point. I heard from him a few days ago, and he said he's still "living the dream". Jim

  16. #36
    Join Date
    Feb 2000
    Location
    Montana
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    Was in town on Tuesday to take a few photos of the brand new 2021 Duramax Diesel pickups. The Chevy dealership had just received their very first 2021 model year trucks... due to covid-19 delays this year, so I made arrangements with the manager a couple of weeks ago to drop in for a few photos when they arrived. They are sweet. I'll have a new article available soon.

    It was a really-really nice day here (especially for November 3), so I thought I'd drive Lil Red to the dealership.



    Jim

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