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Thread: Duramax Diesel Conversions

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2000
    Location
    Montana
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    11,416

    Default More info & questions answered.

    In your conversion truck, how did you get the climate controls and radio to work, I know that your conversion guide mentions that it includes information to produce a running and drivable truck. So, are there any manuals or wiring diagrams for those kind of things in the truck? Also what kind of unforeseen problems further down the road have you run into? Any electrical or drive train problems or other little things? Any help is very appreciated thank you-Robert


    I installed the complete under dash/inside cab wiring harness, fuse block, and electrical junction blocks matching the engine/trans package. I also installed a matching dash. This allowed me to use the matching audio system, light switch, pushbutton 4WD switch and instrument panel gauge cluster. I retained the original 1989 control panel for the HVAC system by interfacing it with the new harness. This is covered in the Conversion Guide (HVAC system).

    No problems with the drivetrain have come up, except that if doing it again, I would install a matching model year steering column, which would simplify the conversion. The Guide shows how to retain the original steering column and get the cruise, turn, horn and wiper system integrated into the new electrical system.

    Jim

    For this conversion, how much would the approximate cost be? I've read all the articles I can find on the conversion you did with the '89 however I can’t find a build cost. I'm looking to do it to my 1996 and was wondering about an approximate build cost to just get it running and drivable. Thank you -Robert


    Assuming you did all the work, the total cost would depend on what you pay for a conversion package. I've heard of packages going for $5k to $12k. Many almost-new low mileage salvage trucks go for somewhere in the $7500 range, but you'd need a salvage license to bid on insurance vehicles. Ebay can also be a good source for engines and parts.

    Jim

    You mentioned a conversion kit, aside from taking the parts out if a salvage truck what do you mean?
    Thank you Robert
    I referred to a conversion parts package that was assembled from a salvage truck. A package will contain the complete engine/transmission, all related wiring harnesses, computer modules, fuse blocks, electrical center, intercooler/hoses, radiator, steering column, etc.

    There have been a few "packages" sold on eBay. I urge people to buy a complete package or a complete salvage truck. The little bits & pieces can really run the cost up if you have to buy them over the counter.

    Jim

  2. #2

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    Now I started connecting inside wires and bad thing is, that my junction block does not match with Jim´s one and if I checked the ALLDATA, then that one there didnt match with mine nor Jim´s.
    http://stuff.e30club.org/images/suburban/juncblock.JPG
    So I just have to pull out all fuses and put them in one-by-one to see, where I need to connect the right wire or someone has a better solution?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2000
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    11,416

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    I bought the full set of GM manuals and the separate electrical diagram book for the model year of the engine package I used. In these books was an illustration and pinout descriptions for the junction block I used. If buying the books isn't a possibility, I'd visit a a local dealership and try to get a printout from them for your junction block.

    By the way, the separate electrical diagram book isn't strictly necessary because the individual diagrams can be found scattered throughout the service manual book set. Being scattered makes it more time consuming to get all of the information, so I found it better to have all of the diagrams in one book. I recommend getting the GM electrical diagram book matching the model year of your engine package.

    By the way, please don't post scans of diagrams or other copyrighted material from AllData or any other source.

    Jim

  4. #4

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    As Im building a car in Norway, then in this country, it isnt possible to buy this book, they just dont sell it. Although I purchased all possible versions in alldata, that my donor car could be. It turned out, its a 2003 year model. I noticed, that every year has its own junction block under the dashboard, so now its pretty easy to find out everything. And it was true, that it needs a feeding pump, because before there was problems with starting the car. If it started, then it ran just well. After intsalling a Holley performance feeding pump, it starts just nicely and runs like a sportscar

    But does anyone know, what to do with the brake fluid level indicator? As my suburban tank does not have such plug, then i just leave it there hanging? Actually I dont like the light in the dashboard, that says, you have too little brake fluid. And as handbrake uses the same light, I just cant disable it.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,585

    Arrow

    The brake fluid level indicator sensor is a normally open circuit, closed when the fluid level is sufficient. You should be able to shunt the connector to get the lamp to go out. If you do this and the lamp stays on, then you have another sensor or switch in the system that's not happy, or missing, or the brake fluid level harness is not wired correctly into the system. The EBCM (Electronic Brake Control Module) receives the input from the brake fluid level switch, and controls the IP lamp. If you pacify all the switches/sensors, and still have the lamp on, I'd suspect an issue with the EBCM, or a weak/missing ground in the circuit. If you haven't installed the late model EBCM, that could very well be the problem, with the BCM missing the input, or the input is not correct from the park brake switch (which is monitored by the BCM)
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2000
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    11,416

    Arrow

    When beginning a project as complex as a Duramax conversion, it's helpful as you work through the project to use checklists, and then concentrate on one or just a few steps at a time. A person can become bogged-down and discouraged when contemplating the entirety of the project. Again, just concentrating on a few steps at a time helps to keep you focused, and allows you to see and measure progress in real terms.

    When our project was in the planning stages, and while actually working through the conversion, I created many lists that I used to help keep me focused. Here's one of those lists (yes, I kept them all).



    When taken as bite-size chunks, the project becomes doable for most people. A list helps keep you focused....

    Jim
    Last edited by More Power; 06-11-2009 at 12:26.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    SE Wisconsin
    Posts
    488

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by More Power View Post
    When beginning a project as complex as a Duramax conversion, it's helpful as you work through the project to use checklists, and then concentrate on one or just a few steps at a time. A person can become bogged-down and discouraged when contemplating the entirety of the project. Again, just concentrating on a few steps at a time helps to keep you focused, and allows you to see and measure progress in real terms.

    When our project was in the planning stages, and while actually working through the conversion, I created many lists that I used to help keep me focused. Here's one of those lists (yes, I kept them all).

    When taken as bite-size chunks, the project becomes doable for most people. A list helps keep you focused....

    Jim
    This is excellent advice. I have done this and it makes me more focused and also helps me plan ahead so I have the parts I need when I have the time to do the work.
    1993 K3500 - Peninsular 18:1 engine, marine injectors, high capacity cooling, AL Core Radiator, 3" DP and 4" exhaust, ISSPRO Gauges, Girdle, AMSOIL Dual Oil Filter System, 1997 Air Filter(trashed the K&N), 395K on Body, 165k on engine.
    1997 GMC Savana - 6.5 TD
    1966 CJ5 - V6 Gas - highly modified
    1967 Jeepster - Stock
    1986 Jeep CJ7 - Stock
    1993 Grand Cherokee - 6.2 diesel
    2007 Grand Cherokee - 3.0 diesel

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