Need a good filter please---advice

[moss6]

I just did a cold air modification on the LBZ yesterday utilizing the stock air box and plumbing. What I did was discard the passenger recovery hook in the air dam, install a scoop plenum in it and run a 3" tube from it to the air box. The results are rewarding; at 88 degrees ambient and running 60mph the intake air tempreture dropped from from 116 degrees to 106 degrees with the added outside air. Performance and smoothness are improved, but the main goal was to lower temps. though I'm not sure how to do a sound analysis of the EGR's I suspect that there was some improvement there also--I hope---; heavy towing with high EGR's is what set this in motion to start with. (Banks exhaust due in next week and some contemplation over their innercoolers---very pricey but if I could get some good feel for actual temp lowering maybe worth it).
Anyway what this boils down to is I'd like to have an air filter with better flow and no filtering compromise. I've been the K&N route on gassers and have sworn never to expose another engine to the grit injestion that they provide. I know that Banks is using a gauze with their cold air package, surprising but maybe there are some out there that actually filter--I don't know--no experience.
I'd love some input on any high flows that actually filter, thanks.

[More Power]

The factory paper filter actually does a pretty good job in catching dirt. AFE produces a couple different filters having a different # of gause layers. AEM produces a dry (but cleanable) air filter that looks good in the ads.... I need to get one to look at and perhaps test.

As of right now, I prefer the oiled foam (Uni-Foam). It's a high flow. Engine oil analysis shows it to be at least as good as the factory paper - perhaps better (when looking at the silicon levels in the analysis).

The air entry into the airbox and air filter should not present a straight shot at the element. High velocity particles can penetrate the element easier than if the particles have to first hit the side of the air box a time or two.

Jim

[SoTxPollock]

Excelent point Jim about the air not hiting directly into the filter. If given the choice I prefer to have the air have to make a ninety degree turn, because air can turn sharper and faster than a heavy dirt particle. There have been air cleaners designed that way where the centrifugal force spins the dirt to the outside edge and the dirt exits while the air can make the turn and continue on. I think most designs now are based on the "straight shot into the intake" approach, thats ok for Drag racers running a few seconds on a clean surface, but not a great idea for long haul down the interstate through a dust storm in West Texas or Arizona, Nevada, etc. Filtration is the only thing between the good, clean engine and the dirty worn out one.

[Ramster21]

Oil foam filters will eventually toast your Mass Air Sensor, and you will pay for the new one. Dealership's are aware of only reason for failure is oil saturates the sensor and cooks it. My two cents is oil less filters is the way to go.

[jsmiracle]

I've had the Uni-foam air filter since my truck was practically new. I just cleaned it for the first time a couple of weeks ago. I feel like I drive in a relatively "clean" environment (mostly street/highway), but I cleaned a lot of filth out of the foam during its cleaning. It seems to be filtering very well.

BTW, I've had no problems with Mass Air Sensors, yet.

Jim M.

[moss6]

I'm surprised at the results of the uni foam; from the testing I've seen the oiled foams let a lot thru, and I also surmise that it would also take a lot of silica passing for it to show much in the oil testing. I definatly agree with the indirect path for particulate as well as water which with the air dam inlet could pose a problem and another concern for the relitively small inlet area of the stock Donaldson filter. The LBZ box design does an excellent job of whirling the incoming to the outsides of the box and the center of the blades is blocked so that no direct shot to the filter is allowed. With my mod. an additional air entry is created inboard of the vanes but does not point directly towards the filter inlet. I have concern for water entry but hope the many twists and turns of the 3" inlet tubing will take care of that; I might keep another filter in the truck for peace of mind. In the futher I'd like to add a shut off in the tubing but that is going to be pretty tough to do.
I am now thinking that the AMsoil nanofiber filter would be a good choice but they don't seem to be available for the LBZ. Does anyone here have any experience with them?
Also I got the Banks exhaust installed last week and am impressed with the quietness and performance. Also I think I am seeing some EGT lowering with it; hard to gauge as erratic as EGT's are but I'm hoping that it's 30 to 50 as is my impression. Getting the stock system off without a lift will sure test your perseverance!!!!

[More Power]

I've been using a Uni-Foam for 30K or so. No problems with the MAF, and I've not had to clean the sensor. I've cleaned the Uni filter once during that time, and I'm careful not to over oil it.

There have many debates through the years about which filter media is best. Those who think about such things usually have a favorite, and some of those will defend their choice to the bitter end... That's OK. Using what you have confidence in is perhaps as important as any other reason for choosing a particular air filter element.

I use three criteria for basing an opinion on the effectiveness of an air filter. 1- Silicon level determined through engine oil analysis. 2- Amount of grit found in the air intake ducting downstream of the element. 3- Boost pressure max - a higher max usually means the air filter element is more free-flowing. Personally, I would not sacrifice filtering efficiency (dirt catching) for performance. With a few filters, you can have both (more or less). A lot depends on what sort of environment you drive in. Those driving in a clean environment can lean more toward the free-er flowing filters than someone who drives in a dusty environment.

When in doubt, use the factory paper element. You're pretty safe with that choice...

Jim

[Robyn]

I just replaced the air box on the 95 dually with another one that had all its mounting hardware in good shape (Rubber mounts had gone away on the original)
The thing had a K-N clod sifter screen filter in it when I took it apart. The sound of the turbo was awesome but there was evidence that dirt was getting through as it had some gritty residue in the rubber elbo and in the turbo throat stuck to the oil vapor pull over.

I tossed the K-N unit in the trash and replaced it with a factory type dry paper without the foam on the back.

Power is still fine but the sound of the turbo is reduced.
I am more concerned about keeping all that grit out of my engine.
I run on some nasty dusty roads getting in and out of the ranch.
That fine grit will ruin an engine quickly.

Even my big rig has paper elements but of course they are the size of a small garbage can (One on each side)

A well designed prefilter turbine that swirls the heavy crap into a container is very useful and is seen commonly on heavy equipment that operates in dirty environments.

The old "OIL Bath" units that spun the air (and dirt) down through a set of propeller type blades and into a puddle of oil were great too.

I am still fond of the throw away paper units as they are about as fool proof as you can get.
The addition of a little gauge that measure the pressure drop across the filter are a nice thing.
You can tell exactly when you need to get new filters.
My big truck has a gauge on the dash and when it reads about 5" water column the filters head to the burn pile.

The idea of getting more cooler air into the filters is a prudent thing too.

yesssssssssss

Robyn

[moss6]

Flash--Amsoil is out of the picture--they don't make one. So I'm still looking. BTW If their products are like their email tech service responses they are no good anyway---don't seem too knowlegable.

[DmaxMaverick]

Flash--Amsoil is out of the picture--they don't make one. So I'm still looking. BTW If their products are like their email tech service responses they are no good anyway---don't seem too knowlegable.

Contact Greg Landuyt at www.lubricationspecialist.com. If there is an Amsoil solution, he will find it. And as far as his customer service is concerned, he's up to TDP standards.

[JohnC]

If you want to look into air filter technology, take a look at the inlet air filters used on turbine powered helicopters operating in places like Iraq. A gazillion cubic feet per minute of more dust than air....

Biggest difference: no piston rings....

[killerbee]

I just did a cold air modification on the LBZ yesterday utilizing the stock air box and plumbing. What I did was discard the passenger recovery hook in the air dam, install a scoop plenum in it and run a 3" tube from it to the air box. The results are rewarding; at 88 degrees ambient and running 60mph the intake air tempreture dropped from from 116 degrees to 106 degrees with the added outside air. Performance and smoothness are improved, but the main goal was to lower temps. though I'm not sure how to do a sound analysis of the EGR's I suspect that there was some improvement there also--I hope---; heavy towing with high EGR's is what set this in motion to start with. (Banks exhaust due in next week and some contemplation over their innercoolers---very pricey but if I could get some good feel for actual temp lowering maybe worth it).
Anyway what this boils down to is I'd like to have an air filter with better flow and no filtering compromise. I've been the K&N route on gassers and have sworn never to expose another engine to the grit injestion that they provide. I know that Banks is using a gauze with their cold air package, surprising but maybe there are some out there that actually filter--I don't know--no experience.
I'd love some input on any high flows that actually filter, thanks.

I am surprised you have IAT's that high, 28 over ambient, running empty on the highway.

Many that have posted here do not realize that you are committed to the donaldson oem. I am a big believer in oem air (and oil) filtration. So using another element is a no-no without compelling evidence to diverge.

As to your observation on IAT, I am interested in further details. I am not familiar with the terms you have used, but am familiar with the LBZ intake, which is better than the predecessor (for IAT preservation)