Results 1 to 11 of 11

Thread: 1993 to 1997 Cooling Mod Problem

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    24

    Post

    Has anyone done this modification, new dual thermostat cross over, high volume water pump on a 92 or 93 with mechanical injection pump? I'm almost done, but have a problem with my idle solonoid that is on the throttle cable bracket. I did change my throttle bracket to the modified one as required in the conversion.

    I can mount the cross over to the block without the thermostat housing being attached. My problem is when I attempt to mount the thermostat housing to the thermostat cross over. The thermostat housing won't fit between the thermostat crossover and throttle selonoid unless I remove the throttle solonoid. My other alternative would be to bend the solonoid in such an angle that it would be inoperative. I called Peninsular Diesel and they are out for an extended weekend, no problem hope they have a good weekend. If anyone can advise a solution I would like to get everything back together and see if see starts since I also put in a new timing chain set and harmonic balancer. Or I'll wait until Tuesday.
    93 Crew Cab Dually 6.5TD cooling mods 4L80E trans temp gauge 4:10 227,700 miles<br />2002 Terry 30S<br />1980 Viking 160 S.S.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    Goshen, Ohio
    Posts
    21

    Post

    Howdy,

    I've done this mod. on my 93. What I did was to
    cut off the part of the rod that is out of the back side of the throttle solonoid. It is still a tight fit put provided enought room for me. Hope this helps. [img]smile.gif[/img]


    Doug
    1993 6.5 TD Dually 3500 crew cab 2 wheeler, 5 speed<br />K&N air filter NOT! switched to Amsoil 2 stage<br />3-1/2 Kennedy exhaust<br />Air Box Mods.<br />97 Dual thermostat mods<br />Amsoil Synthetic fluids front to rear<br />Dual remote oil filters<br />Single Mass flywheel / LUK clutch

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2000
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    11,408

    Arrow

    When I first designed the new throttle/cruise bracket and wrote the cooling mods article in 1999, I spent about 8 hours modifying the fast-idle solenoid and original bracket so they would work correctly.

    Some solenoids are of a particular design that just don't work in this confined space. Some solenoids (different manufacturer) can be modified.

    What I recommend now is to not use a fast-idle solenoid, but to simply bump the idle speed of the engine to 650-700 rpm.

    To test this recommendation, we removed the fast-idle solenoid on the Project 6.5 and increased warm idle to about 650 rpm. The HPCA (cold-advance) in the DB2 increases cold rpm, and has worked just fine for the past two Montana winters.

    MP

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    24

    Post

    Doug, thanks for the suggestion, I tried bending the rod that is inside the solonoid upward to give the thermostat housing room. The solonoid rubber boot & body is still in the way.

    MP, looks like my only solution is to remove the solonoid. If it works for you I should not have any problem. Additionally my truck is used primarily to tow our travel trailer and boat to the lake neither are done in the cold of winter. Thanks I'll report back and let you know how it worked as soon as it stops raining.
    93 Crew Cab Dually 6.5TD cooling mods 4L80E trans temp gauge 4:10 227,700 miles<br />2002 Terry 30S<br />1980 Viking 160 S.S.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    24

    Talking

    I'm done timing chain & gears and 97 cooling modification. I had to remove the throttle solonoid since there was no room for it. My old truck started up without any problems. It sounds pretty good and ran better than before, it appears to be more responsive. I'll know tomorrow if it smokes at all if further timing adjustment might be needed.

    Thanks for your replies
    93 Crew Cab Dually 6.5TD cooling mods 4L80E trans temp gauge 4:10 227,700 miles<br />2002 Terry 30S<br />1980 Viking 160 S.S.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    23

    Post

    Will I run into this problem on my '94? I thought I had read elsewhere on this page that the biggest issue I should run into was having to grind down a bracket a bit. Just curious. I ordered this mod from Avant and the garage should be finishing up tomorrow. Don't want any last minute suprises!

    Thanks

    Steve
    Steve Ostrovitz<br />\'94 GMC Suburban 6.5L TD<br />\'71 Z-28/LT-1 Camaro road racer.<br />\'89 Mazda RX-7 road racer. <br /> <a href=\"http://www.flatout-motorsports.com\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.flatout-motorsports.com</a>

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    24

    Post

    Steve I don't think that you will have this problem since only the 92 & 93 came with the mechanical injection pumps the ones without the problems . The cruise linkage and throttle linkage "cables" are configured in a different manner than the electronic injector pumps. Anyone else? You may have to grind some material from your idler pulley bracket to make clearance for the dual thermostat cross over. I also had to cut a couple of inches from the 97 upper hose since it had a bend on the thermostat end. I believe my thermostat housing had to be modified for 92 &93 for the mechanical injector. Good Luck!
    93 Crew Cab Dually 6.5TD cooling mods 4L80E trans temp gauge 4:10 227,700 miles<br />2002 Terry 30S<br />1980 Viking 160 S.S.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2000
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    11,408

    Arrow

    Steve O,

    Aside from grinding a divot in the belt tensioner/alternator bracket to clear the new crossover, you will need to re-shape the steel fuel return line that crosses the front of the engine.

    A 1997 or newer fuel return line won't work because of a difference in belt driven accessories brackets between the 1992-95 and the 1997+ model years.

    Just use your hands to carefully reshape the steel tubing, then use rubber hose or plastic wiring loom to cover any areas where rubbing might occur.

    MP

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    23

    Post

    Thanks guys. Perfect info. I told the mechanic that was doing the swap about the different setup and the possibility of grinding on the bracket. One of his guys just called me to let me hear the motor up and running after a test drive, so I guess they got it all figured out.

    Again, great help, as always.

    Steve
    Steve Ostrovitz<br />\'94 GMC Suburban 6.5L TD<br />\'71 Z-28/LT-1 Camaro road racer.<br />\'89 Mazda RX-7 road racer. <br /> <a href=\"http://www.flatout-motorsports.com\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.flatout-motorsports.com</a>

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    236

    Post

    Does anyone have a single stat cross-over that they want to get rid of?
    I just discovered that the one on my 93 is cracked and leaking.
    If anyone wants to get rid on one, please email me.

    Thanks
    whatnot@ureach.com
    1995 Chevy K2500 Ext. cab 6.5L.<br />1993 GMC K1500 Ext. cab 6.5L with Banks Turbo

  11. #11
    patrick m. Guest

    Post

    I still have my old one, it still has the 190 t-stat in it.
    You are welcome to it

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •