Shuts off while driving - Stalling

[Lug]

Fuel filter seems to have cured the stumble for right now. Filter didn't seem that bad, but the bottom of the bowl was full of heavy sediment.
Justin

[Steve_M]

'95 Suburban 2500 4x4. 104K miles, mostly towing. Intermittent stalls, both at speed and while coasting to a stop. Usually restarts easily, though on recent event it had a hard time restarting and when it did start it would go a couple hundred yards and stall again. Had it towed to the dealer that time and they replaced the lift pump. Ran fine for a month and then started stalling on my wife who promptly called me while I was on a business trip seeking ways to fix it?

Anyway, please clarify PMD vs FSD? My Trouble Shooting book says "Pump Mounted Driver (Fuel Solenoid Driver)". So am I safe to conclude that they are one in the same?

I've gone through most of the "No Start, Stall, DTC 35 or P1216" tips, with the exception of the clear tube test for air in the injection system and the Circuit 439 test. I'm pretty confident that I'm not getting air in the injection as it shuts off abrubtly, whereas air in the injection system causes the engine to run rough or shudder. How the heck do you access the plug on the FSD to test for voltage on circuit 439 without removing the intake stuff above the injection pump?

Finally, there is an extended warranty coverage on the injection pump covering 11 years from the date of original sale or 120K miles. I'm the second owner so I might be past the 11 years, but definitely not 120K miles. I'm going to take it into the dealer first to see if they will just replace the injection pump. If not, I'm pretty sure it's the FSD and I will look into a new one mounted off the injection pump.

Comments/answers are appreciated.

[JohnC]

Anyway, please clarify PMD vs FSD? My Trouble Shooting book says "Pump Mounted Driver (Fuel Solenoid Driver)". So am I safe to conclude that they are one in the same?

Yes, the same.

Sounds like you are on the right track.

The connector can be removed by using a long, thin screw driver to release the clip-lock on the side of the connector and levering the plug off the PMD. Be aware, the chances of getting it back on again successfully are somewhere between slim and none!

Good luck with the warranty. My guess is you are at or over the 11 year limit, but, the dealer has some lattitude to press for warranty coverage. If you have a relationship wit a dealer, that's the one you want to go to.

Sometimes the dealer wants to see stored fault codes, so, whatever you do, don't pull the fuel solenoid fuse and crank the engine, as it will set codes....

[Steve_M]

As second owner, found that the vehicle was originally purchased in February '95. Dealer said no go on the warranty, yet I had the lift pump replace in February at another dealer when I was stranded. I told them the problem was intermitent over the past year, but had not stranded me. Again, no go. Itemized total for replament with "new upgraded injection pump" was $2990. I told them sorry, but there are much cheaper after market alternatives.

So, help me out on my decisions. Should I go the Sol D route, or replacement Stanadyne FSD with cooler? I do not face the cold weather start issue in SoCal, which could favor the Sol D. What's been the luck with the remote mounted Stan with a heat sink cooler attached?

[JeffsTowTruck]

Steve M ----I also have no warranty. The same problem has happen to me. 1st I replace the pump with a used one. The shop had a fit. The next time
I had read about the FSD Coooler here on this site and bought it. I have had no problem for about 3 years and a couple weeks ago the same intermition problem happen again. I called the local fuel injection co. and they wanted 330.00 or the Pump Driver, Black box. I bought mine from the Dealer at Cash Wholesale through a business for 315.00. All problems were solved. I never checked the codes due to this has happened to me 2 other times and both time it was the FSD and not the pump. My truck never set a code ( no idiot lights are on). I found out the pump is a good pump but the black box ( FSD) is what goes bad. Due to heat breaks it down, There is a pic. of the FSD /Cooler in my 6.5 photos.
Hope this helps and you get it fixed.

[wiganwarrior]

hi,im from the uk and i have a suburban 6.5 turbo diesel.i have the same problem as 1 r 2 of the members.my vehicle will drive fine for 80 miles then it will start to cut out,on the other hand it will stall immidiately after starting.generally it will kick straight back in but occasionally it will need to be put in nueteral ignition tunned off and restarted.(it always restarts)and ive never had to have it towed back.i have had it into my main gmc dealer who scanned it and told me its the fuel injection pump thus the repair bill will be in excess of

[twaddle]

Hi wiganwarrior,
I'm also in the UK and have a 96 Diesel suburban which used to stall on a very intermittent basis.
First, Which dealer did you take it to and what codes (actual numbers) were showing when they scanned it?
Next, are you mechanically inclined and able to have a go at checking some things?
How long have you owned the truck and any history on how long this problem occurring?

When you first turn on the ignition switch, can you hear the lift pump buzzing from under the body below the drivers seat? That's assuming your Sub is still left hand drive.

Let us know and perhaps we can help before you need to spend